đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 69118 points ¡ Posted at 15:50:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Iâm a mechanic/auto shop owner. I figured Iâd put some stuff together for anyone interested in buying a used car but doesnât know anything about cars. Obviously the best option is to take it to an auto shop to have it thoroughly inspected by a professional before you buy it. The key word here is BEFORE you buy it. I donât know how many people Iâve had come to my shop for an inspection after they bought itâŚ.ugghh. The $150 or so you spend is worth not buying something that may have thousands of dollars of problems. But if thatâs not an option, here are some tips to help keep you from buying a lemon:
1-Buy a cheap OBD scanner/reader. You donât need to spend a lot, as theyâll all do what you need here. A bluetooth OBD reader and the TORQ app for you phone seems to be pretty popular/good choice. Practice using it on some cars. Some of the stuff I'm going over may seem daunting, but if you practice it on a car a few times, you'll get the hang of it, and this will all make sense. You could be saving yourself thousands in repair here, so take a few hours to practice it. It's not hard once you do. You should be able to do all of the stuff I'm going to talk about with your scanner in under 5 mins total. You donât have to worry about reading and interpreting data. The main thing you want to do is check for codes in the engine and transmission ECUs. ECU stands for Electronic Contrul Unit. Basically, it's the computer that controls the engine or transmission. They are sometimes referred to as ECM, or Engine Control Module, and TCM, or Transmission Control Module. Sometimes they'll be referred to as PCM, or Powertrain Control Module. This is what it's called when only one computer controls both the engine and automatic transmission. The PCM may be one physical computer, but logically, it's 2 computers. So if you connect your scanner to a PCM, you'll still see two separate options, one for engine, and one for transmission. Do note that if you have a manual transmission, there won't be a transmission computer.
So when you connect to each one, there should be no codes in either. If there are codes, thereâs an issue. It may be minor, it may be major. Google it if you want, but not knowing what the codes mean, your best bet is to walk away. If your scanner is a better one, you can also check other modules (computers) for codes. However, itâs pretty common on newer cars, especially European, to find obscure codes in obscure modules. Normally theyâre not an issue. Focus on the Engine and Transmission. ABS (antilock brakes) and SRS (safety restrain system...airbags, seat belts, etc) modules normally shouldnât have codes lingering either. Make sure to also check after test driving. The codes may have been reset by the seller to hide a problem (more on that in the next paragraph). They may have returned during your test drive, so check again!
Use the scanner to check the monitors on the engine ECU/Computer. Monitors are a series of self checks that the ECU does on the engine. All applicable monitors should be set (passed/complete). They get reset when you clear the check engine light, or when you disconnect the battery (usually). If all of the monitors havenât passed, then itâs quite likely the person selling it has reset the check engine light recently (may be trying to hide a problem), or thereâs a problem that isnât allowing the monitor to complete. Not a good sign. Walk away. To complete all of the monitors can take quite a few miles and sometimes several days. So there's a good window there for you to catch someone doing some hanky panky.
For reference, hereâs what a normal cranking sound should be: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v0h_Ygqox0
[1]Hereâs what a low compression cylinder cranking sounds like. Itâs at about :55 secs :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOghpmVhVng
[2]If you listen closely, youâll hear the unsteady rhythm. Loss of compression is usually piston rings, valves, or head gasket. All costly. If the engine sounds funny when cranking, walk away.
If the car youâre looking at doesnât have a clear flood mode, you can remove the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box, which turns off the fuel pump. Most cars have one, but some donât. Some cars can be a real PITA to disable it from starting. Google the car youâre looking at with something like âYYYY Make Model clear floodâ or âYYYY Make Model disable fuel pumpâ and see if thereâs an easy way to achieve this. I'm sure there will be a Youtube video showing you exactly how to do this.
Practice this beforehand on cars you have access to if possible to tune your ear to the sound. You can also do this periodically on your own car to see if any problems are arising.
Check the fluids. All of the fluids will have minimum/maximum marks. If fluids are low, someone has not been maintaining the car well, or it has developed a leak. Not a good sign. When checking the engine oil, it should range from clear to black. If it looks like chocolate milkshake, there is a major problem. RUN AWAY. You can also smell the oil on the dipstick to see if it smells like gasoline. If it smells like raw gasoline, the engine is either injecting way too much fuel or you have bad piston rings. Either way they're bad. If the oil level is WAY above the full mark, like an inch or more, then either some other fluid is making it's way into the engine (very bad) or someone sucks at doing an oil change. Remember to check the oil with the engine off and on level ground. Some new cars donât have dipsticks (mainly European). If so, youâre SOL. Check the coolant in the reservoir. It should be green, pink, red, yellow, orange, blue, or purple, depending on manufacturer. If itâs rusty, walk away. Remove the radiator cap (only if the engine is cold) and look at the cap and in the radiator. If you see any rust or chunky/gritty brown stuff, walk away. If itâs just water, walk away (be careful here, Fordâs yellow coolant almost looks clear). Check the automatic transmission fluid. For the most part, it should be red, but sometimes amber or green. It may be black. Thatâs dirty. Not a deal breaker, but they havenât been keeping up on maintenance. It should not smell burnt, though. Thatâs bad. If it looks like strawberry milkshake, thatâs really bad. Also, remember that you should check the level on automatic transmissions while the engine is running in Park and after driving it and getting the transmission good and hot. The only exception is most Hondas. Thatâs checked after driving but with the engine off. Google it for the car you plan on looking at to make sure. Many new cars donât have a transmission dipsticks, so again, youâre SOL there.
Start the engine and listen for any noises. The engine should be cold. If itâs at operating temperature, the seller may have warmed it up to hide some cold start engine noises. Be wary. If it makes any noises, walk away.
Look for maintenance records. If it has consistent oil change records at an oil change place, at least theyâve been changing the oil. Unfortunately, oil change places only check easy profitable stuff. Itâs better than nothing, though. If the records are all at an independent shop, thatâs better. Indyâs will usually do a pretty thorough check up on the car when servicing it. If it has all dealer records, thatâs the holy grail. Dealers will find any nick nack thatâs wrong and upsell it. They also commonly donât do thorough diagnostics (this is an unfortunate effect of the way dealer shops operate). So if it needed repairs, on top of having new parts that needed replacing, it may have other new parts that it didnât even need. Plus those new parts will be good quality OEM parts, not chines junk of questionable quality.
Check that everything works on the car. Check the A/C, the heater, the windows, the locks, the mirrors, the head/parking/brake lights, etc. If the owner neglected to fix obvious problems, what else did they decide not to fix?
Look under the hood and look for any hokey work. Random zip ties holding things on, tape, broken plastic pieces, a battery that can move around if you push on it, wires hanging, etc. If it looks like unprofessional work has been done on what you can see, how bad is what you canât see?
How does the car look? Is it dirty, full of scratches, stained? If the owner cares so little about the interior/exterior, they probably have the same attitude towards the mechanical part of it.
Check the tires. Aside from general condition, do they all match? If all the tires are different, theyâre cheap/broke, and have probably cheaped out on a lot more than just tires. Lay your hand flat on the tire tread and light feel around the tires. If you feel a repeating pattern of flat spots/dips, you have suspension problems.
Try and stay away from used car dealers. Used car dealers get the majority of their cars from auctions. A lot of cars that go to auction are sent there by someone that doesnât want it, usually because there are problems. Not all, but many. New car dealers send trade-ins that are too old or the wrong make to put on their lot, and some of those are decent. However, the small used car dealers usually buy the bottom of the barrel cars at auction. Theyâll fix the minimum needed with the cheapest parts possible to maximize profit. Theyâll make it look pretty, though. Good chance youâre buying a polished turd. Not all used car dealers are bad, though. Check reviews. Look at what they have on the lot. If they have a lot of high resale value cars on the lot, they're buying the good stuff at acution. If all of their cars are under $10k, with a lot under $5k, move on.
Obviously, test drive the car. Drive it at different speeds up to highway speeds. Brake easy, brake hard. Find a crappy road or railroad tracks to drive over. Make sure there are no noises or vibrations. Get it good and warm. When youâre done, open the hood and take a good whiff. Make sure there are no strong smells (like burning fluids or other things). Look under the car and see if anything is dripping or the bottom of the engine is covered in fluids (bring a flashlight, it can get dark under there). Donât be alarmed if you see water dripping under the car at about the same area as the base of the windshield/firewall. If the A/C or defroster was on, that is just condensate from the A/C system. Touch it. If itâs not oily and looks/feels like water, it should be OK. If youâre test driving a manual car, the clutch engagement point should be somewhere in the middle of the clutch pedal travel. If itâs right at the top or right at the bottom, clutch repairs are in the near future.
This one is a little more advanced, but not too difficult. Itâs also pretty important. Youâll need your OBD scanner. What you want to do is look at the engine data and search for the fuel trims. An engine computer injects fuel based on a bunch of sensor inputs. It has a base fuel map programmed into it that it references, based on those sensor inputs, and injects XXX amount of fuel. There is an oxygen sensor in the exhaust system that analyzes the exhaust gas and acts like a quality control inspector. It tells the computer whether it injected too much or too little fuel. The computer then makes adjustments to that base fuel map to make sure itâs injecting the proper amount of fuel. Those adjustments are called fuel trims. A 5% fuel trim would mean the computer had to add 5% more fuel than the base map. A -5% fuel trim would mean that the computer had to reduce fuel by 5% from the base fuel map. In a perfect world, fuel trims would be zero. However, thatâs rarely the case. Fuel quality, different atmospheric conditions, engine wear, engine or sensor problems, etc, make it so that the base fuel map is never perfect, so the computer is always adding or subtracting fuel (usually itâs adding, but sometimes itâs subtracting). I donât like to see a computer adding or subtracting more than 10% fuel. Any more than that and there may be a problem. Any more than 15-20% and there is definitely a problem.
So what youâre going to want to do is look at the data on the engine computer. You want to make sure you connect to the computer using the GENERIC OBD2 option on your scanner. Different car manufacturers will call these fuel trims by different names, and display the percentage in different ways. If you connect to the engine computer the standard way, you may be confused trying to find and read the fuel trims. But if you connect using the generic obd option, itâs always going to use a standardized display format across all vehicles. Some really cheap OBD scanners only connect using the generic OBD protocol. Youâre going to see a long list of a bunch of different data. Scroll through until you find âshort term fuel trimâ and âlong term fuel trimâ. I'm not going to explain what the difference between those two data parameters are, as that doesn't matter here, and may end up being confusing. I'm just going to tell you what to do with the values you see.
Short term fuel trim, depending on your scanner, may be displayed as: Short term fuel trim, STFT, ST, or ST%
Long term fuel trim may be displayed as: Long Term Fuel Trim, LTFT, LT, or LT%
Letâs assume your scanner uses the more common STFT and LTFT designation. Youâre going to see a number after the letters, so STFT1 and LTFT1. The number means the âbankâ or side of the engine. A 4 cylinder engine only has one âsideâ so youâll only see STFT1 and LTFT1. However, a V6 or V8 engine has two sides of the engine (3 or 4 cylinders on one side, and 3 or 4 cylinder on the other side, hence the V6 or V8). The computer controls fuel independently for each side of the engine, so youâll see a STFT1 and LTFT1 for one side of the engine, and STFT2 and LTFT2 for the other side. Donât be alarmed if youâre looking at a V6 or V8 engine and you only see STFT1 and LTFT1. Many late 90s cars and some early 2000s cars didnât control fuel separately for each side of the engine, and lumped both sides into one bank.
When looking at the short term and long term fuel trims, youâll notice the long term fuel trim number stays pretty steady, but the short term fuel trim number may change a lot. This is normal. What is important to note is that they are cumulative. So if STFT=4 and LTFT=3, then your total fuel trim is 7%. Letâs take a look at some examples on a V8:
STFT1 : 3 ... STFT2 : 6
LTFT1 : 2 ... LTFT2 : 1
So the total fuel trim on bank 1 is 5% (3+2) and the total fuel trim on bank 2 is 7% (6+1). Each bank is below +/- 10%. Thatâs pretty good.
STFT1 : -5 ... STFT2 : 3
LTFT1 : 3 ... LTFT2 : 1
Bank 1 fuel trim is -2% (-5 +3) and bank 2 is 4% (3+1). Again, thatâs good.
STFT1 : 6 ... STFT2 : 7
LTFT1 : 10 ... LTFT2 :15
Bank 1 fuel trim is 16% (6+10) and bank 2 is 22% (7+15). Thatâs not good. Walk away from this one.
Here's one more that's a littlte different:
STFT1 : -20 ... STFT2 : -20
LTFT1 : 22 ... LTFT2 : 20
Hey, 2% and 0% total fuel trim on each bank. SWEET! this car is running almost perfect! Well not really. Why is the LTFT adding 22% but then the STFT is taking a bunch of it back? There may be an intermittent issue going on here. So add the absolute values together as well (treat -20 as 20) and see what that total is. Here we have 42 and 40. There's some interpretation required here that you'd need some experience to do, but I'd say anything over 25 when adding absolutes is cause for concern.
Check these numbers with the engine running at idle, and rev up the engine and hold it at about 2500rpms and check it there. Like I said, you may see the STFT number change pretty quickly, so just use the average of the numbers you see for that one. If you have someone with you, you can have them check the numbers while you drive as well.
Practice this on a car you have access to beforehand.
I would recommend running through these things, and any others you want to add, on your current car, your parentsâ cars, friendsâ cars, etc. Do it several times. Get comfortable in making these checks so that when youâre doing them in front of some stranger on their car, you wonât forget anything.
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EDIT7 - I'm putting this above my other edits so it gets seen. I totally forgot to talk about Titles and their pitfalls. u/BossMaverick has made an excellent post here
[3] talking about it, and a few other good things as well.â
EDIT- Forgot another tip regarding possible accident repairs. When you look under the hood, the color of the metal in the engine compartment area should be the same color as the car. If you see different colors or primer, it's had body repair. Also, if you look at the reflection in the car's exterior paint up close and at an angle, you'll notice that the reflection has a wavy pattern to it. That's called orange peel. Every car has it from the factory, except super high end cars. The orange peel pattern should be consistent all the way around the car. If the pattern changes in certain parts of the car, it's been repainted in that area. Good chance it had an accident. Another thing you can do is take a small magnet with you. You're going to place the magnet against the car in as many areas as you can. Make sure you wrap it in a microfiber towel or something soft so you don't scratch the car (it's not your car). The magnet should attract itself to the body and even stick to it. If there are spots where the magnet doesn't stick as strong or at all, there is body filler there. It's had body work. Do keep in mind that some body panels aren't magnetic on some cars. If you can't get the magnet to stick anywhere on an entire panel (like the fender or hood) then you probably have a non magnetic body panel (maybe fiberglass or aluminum). I guess it's possible that the whole body panel is covered in bondo, but that would be rare, as that would be an extremely poor repair.
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EDIT2 - Fixed some formatting
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EDIT3 - Thanks for all the replies and awards. I'm glad people found this useful. But seriously, no more awards. Save your money for gas to return all those Christmas presents you don't want.
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EDIT4 - There are lots of comments and questions. I'll try to answer what I can but there are so many. I'll get back to most of you eventually. Gotta get some work done....working on a Saturday (sucks)
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EDIT5 - I'm back from the dead!
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EDIT6 - added some good info brought up in comments, expanded on a few things, laymanized it a little more, explained some technical stuff. Still can't get the STFT and LTFT examples to format the way I wanted. Best I can do
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EDIT 8 - Good night everyone. Thanks for all the awards and comments and conversations. I replied to all the PMs and chats. Tried to reply to as many comments as I could, but holy cow there were just too many. I just hope I did better than Woody Harrelson.
[1]
My sounds don't repeat or carry any silence.
download free via converter
MASSIVE THANKS 4 reading and I hope you enjoy listening!
[2]
For you DIYers out there, the first part of this video will be invaluable for you because all you need is your ear. What does an engine sound like during cranking with low compression on one or more cylinders?
Tests shown
- cranking compression sound test
- relative compression test with a scope
- how to sync a relative compression pattern with an ignition event to ID specific cylinders
Related videos
- How to perform a compression test with a scope (Picoscope)
https://youtu.be/spkpkRvQPHY
- How to perform a compression test with a scope (Verus-Vantage)
https://youtu.be/WKdZsWU2ZmI
- uScope compression test (start at 15:23)
https://youtu.be/ppActthRa70?t=15m23s
- Relative compression testing variables
https://youtu.be/Iq27aO-zfgs
For more information on this topic, I have written a âfield manualâ called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium https://www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
[3]
keepthetips ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:50:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hello and welcome to r/LifeProTips!
Please help us decide if this post is a good fit for the subreddit by up or downvoting this comment.
If you think that this is great advice to improve your life, please upvote. If you think this doesn't help you in any way, please downvote. If you don't care, leave it for the others to decide.
ExWRX ¡ 606 points ¡ Posted at 18:05:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That bit about fuel trims is some of the best used car advice Iâve EVER heard. One thing id add is to pay attention to the bulb check when you turn the key, make sure all the warning lights on the dash turn on. This is just to make sure they havenât pulled any bulbs out for items that might not have set an engine code, like abs or airbags (this is really only for older, non CANBUS cars, so like 2007ish and older for most cars.)
d00bin ¡ 175 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's so fucking grimey and underhanded. How people can just scam other people like that.
MegaTiny ¡ 106 points ¡ Posted at 00:14:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a car where they'd literally switched the battery and tyres out after I bought it.
An hour after it was delivered it wouldn't start. Turns out the battery I now had installed wasn't even the correct type for the car, and the tyres were older than the car itself. That was fun time in the small claims court trying to get my money back.
Leakyradio ¡ 30 points ¡ Posted at 06:43:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Whatâs the ending to your story here?
Kbearforlife ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 07:06:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I too am interested. Upvoted!
Don't leave us hanging good stories can always help others!
Phaedrug ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 02:03:21 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thereâs a scummy used car dealer buried in the desert near OPâs house.
PM_Me_Yo_Tits_Grrl ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:54:13 on January 21, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
In a better world
paulmp ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 15:13:28 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had a slimy dealer try that same thing on me, but I had taken photos of the engine bay with the number plate in view as well as the tyres and a few other photos. They quickly replaced them when I showed them the photos.
nirvroxx ¡ 68 points ¡ Posted at 23:47:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Money. The root of all shady behavior.
RedditjaaA ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 10:08:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
More like greed. Money itself is not
zxzlilqqzxz ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 02:59:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I haven't have a shadow of a doubt that people are referring to sex as the root of all evil, when they say "money is the root of all evil."
imhere2downvote ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:38:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's desire = root of all evil
McrRed ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 06:39:44 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
The actual quote is the love of money is the root of all evil.
Tybyers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:30:38 on February 10, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
1 Timothy 6:10 King James Version (KJV)
10 For the love of money is the root of all evil: which while some coveted after, they have erred from the faith, and pierced themselves through with many sorrows.
King James Version (KJV)
ExWRX ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 00:12:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thatâs why I only buy cars private sale, I find itâs a lot harder for someone to keep up the facade to your face, rather than just being a minion at a company. Prey on their morals a little, in a good way!
GorillaX ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:47:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Haven't you seen Matilda?
GTS250 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"They're buying a cheap car, they know what they're getting!"
Or, "Not me, not my problem! Buyer beware, am I right?"
ImHavingASandwich ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 04:39:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I got ripped on an 1980's Toyota. Only had like 100K miles on it. Turns out someone rolled the milage back, but I didnt see the signs until I tried to sell it and someone schooled me.
Some lessons are learned the hard way...
On the older odometers that aren't digital, check for crooked numbers. They should all be straight.
Also, fingerprints on the inside of the dash covering can be a bad sign.
The brake pedal in my truck was worn down to bare metal in one spot. That took way more than 100K miles to do. That was another sign.
Digital odometers can be rolled back too. Not sure how to determine the evidence on them besides looking at shop records for weird milage fluctuations over time.
TehAgent ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:50:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
These two are big items - up/down/up/down numbers and worn pedals. Also worn carpet - thereâs usually a spot thatâs vinyl or rubber for your foot next to the gas pedal. Check that too. Seat wear and dash button wear are also clues but less telling than the pedals and floor.
Also, flood cars will have rust in weird places like inside the car. Looking at the fasteners in the underside of the dash is a good place to check: not places where things get spilled and may rust from soda or whatever; IE seat bolts like some people might recommend.
techcrewkevin ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 21:42:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't know if all cars will, but my 06 honda had an ABS sensor malfunction and it turned on the ABS light, the Traction Control light, and the Check Engine light.
If these 3 lights are on it would be a dead giveaway that there's something wrong with the ABS sensors (I believe traction control uses the same sensors).
ExWRX ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:10:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think thatâs more common to Japanese cars, newer (32 bit ecu, 05-ish and up depending on model) Subarus will flash the cruise control light and disable cruise if there is a code set. On my parents Ford sedans and my old Chrysler minivan the ABS and airbag systems are totally separate from CEL.
EColfaxlivinn ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:51:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This happened to my 2007 Acura TL. I always have ABS, parking brake, and traction control lights on. the check engine light isn't on though. I have driven it like this for almost 5 years...
celtickid3112 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 09:38:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As long as you know how that changes the braking behavior of your car that's ok I guess. Otherwise it's hella dangerous.
Had the same thing happen on my old Grand Prix. For me it was a sensor issue - poor design. The key thing was it took my 2006 car with abs and turned it into a car from the early 90s - no abs. Changes how you have to brake in an emergency/hard braking situation
EColfaxlivinn ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 16:24:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I believe it, thing is I live in colorado and take that thing out in all types of weather including snow and ice... I am a very cautious snow driver and have never slipped out or wrecked. It's probably best I get that taken care of.
celtickid3112 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:28:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ironically, the abs may be more dangerous in snowy conditions.
Just know that you don't have abs, traction control, or stability control and drive accordingly! I survived three years in upstate NY that way with a torquey V-8
VantablackPill ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:57:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Watch a YouTube video on the exact model, engine type and interior style of the car. The more accurate the video the better. Even if they're speaking in a different language.
Take note of the lights on the dash and their position when they turn the key once (or twice in some cars).
There's an old dirty trick of taking the dash out and putting black tape over the check engine light, or just disconnecting the LED (taking out the bulb on older cars).
I'd be extremely weary of any signs of tampering with the dash. E.g. the odd clip not put back on properly. The dash not aligning up with the gauges 100%. Dirty fingerprints etc.
ExWRX ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:11:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâd almost be more wary of poorly done reassembly work on the interior. If you work on your own car, itâs easy to leave things a little ugly under the hood, but much less likely for you to leave something out of place in the interior you have to look at constantly.
VantablackPill ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:25:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
True. Most used car buying articles and advice (like OP post) is focused 80-100% on what's under the hood and/or under the car itself.
They're missing what to look for in the interior, for an average non-car person.
I get that 90% of a cars expense is going to be on the exterior, like the engine and transmission, but you'll be sitting in the interior and driving it inside the car. If the gear stick shifts oddly (and it's not the SMG BMW shiftier or any other unique crap) and the indicator flashes rapidly (blown fuse), the pedals are smooth (safety hazard), the steering wheel feels slightly loose...
You get the idea.
I see an opportunity for a car enthusiast article...
Spacecowboycarl ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:55:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any vehicle that doesnât do it on startup might have a button that has to be pressed while Turing the key. For example my WJ Jeep I have to hold the trip button while turning the key to get it to show all the lights and test the speedo.
lev211d ¡ 2093 points ¡ Posted at 16:44:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much. I'm not even looking for a car but read through this. Happy New Year to you!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 784 points ¡ Posted at 17:12:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Happy new year!
GGibbbz ¡ 169 points ¡ Posted at 19:08:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post man! Quick question if you don't mind. Is there a car brand one should avoid? Car people have been telling me to go for Hondas or Toyotas.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 453 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's a hard question to answer, because invariably someone is going to chime in and say the car I don't like is something they have and it has been fantastic. Conversely, a car I say is great, someone will chime in and say "I had that and it was a POS".
I work on everything from Toyotas to Deloreans in my shop. Well, not the Deloreans so much anymore. I've gotten a good sense, overall, of what is reliable and what isn't. I would say the top three are:
Though stay away from Hyundai / Kia cars from before 2010ish. They used to not be very good, but in the late 2000s they really stepped up their game and started making some good cars.
As to what to stay away from, I'd say mostly European cars. Specifically German and English. They can be some really nice cars, but they also tend to have a lot of problems, and even the simplest of problems can be expensive. The main issue is they try and put too much new, unperfected technology into their cars to make it the latest and greatest. Unfortunately, that comes at a price of reliability. That's why Toyota tends to always be at the top of the reliability list. There are lots of new technologies like cylinder deactivation that they haven't implemented. They use what they know works and is reliable. They're not in the market of being Cutting Edge.
Oh, and at the bottom of the list would be DeLorean LOL.
camerasoncops ¡ 176 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I remember the first time Hyundai came out with that 100000 mile warranty that covered pretty much everything. You could tell they finally had some faith in their product.
VictarionGreyjoy ¡ 43 points ¡ Posted at 01:24:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Don't know about the states but in Australia they have 7 year unlimited KMs warranty. You can keep it for 5 years and then sell it on with 2 years of warranty left to keep that resale pretty high. It's a pretty good deal.
Notwhoiwas42 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 00:16:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hundais and Kias are better than they used to be but they have a pretty hard upper mileage limit after which they will almost all be more trouble than they are worth. Most any brand does,but theirs is around 120k whereas it's more like double that or more with a Honda or Toyota.
theragu40 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 03:58:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I can't speak for newer ones, but this was very true for my 2010 Santa Fe. Bought it with 75k on it, and really loved it. By 120k we started having major things go wrong. At 135k we were replacing the entire front suspension for the second time in 15k miles (almost all highway or smooth city driving). And it stopped "feeling" nice by that point too. It just felt like there were things not right when you drove it. Such a huge difference from the Toyotas we've had that go well north of 200k miles and drive like the day we got them.
_Dreamer_Deceiver_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:14:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My 2010 Hyundai has done over 200000 miles. No engine issues at all. Just some expected things like shocks
Notwhoiwas42 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 16:57:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's great for you but your exception doesn't really affect the tendencies of the group of millions.
myonlyfriendthe_end ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:52:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The Kia dealer I bought mine from offers 20 years 200k miles powertrain warranty for the original owner.
artificialstuff ¡ -8 points ¡ Posted at 20:53:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think of it as the opposite. Hyundai does that because their stuff is still junk compared to the more reliable/quality brands (if something is defective on say a Toyota, it's going to break in the first 36k miles). They are figuring the life of the vehicle to be 100k. Everything is done cheap enough to be replaced during the life of the vehicle. That's not what you want in a vehicle. They are also very strict with approving warranty work. If you haven't been taking it to the dealership and getting raked over the coals for the recommended service, good luck. And, they'll probably still be in the green since you've been paying out the ass for service.
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 121 points ¡ Posted at 20:15:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When I was buying my car 3 years ago (car was 2 years old salvaged at that time), I just called the Dealership and said "I'm about to buy a civic and wanted to have it looked at before I did". It had really really low millage and I was spending like 9k on it. I just paid 150ish dollars at the Honda dealership and they told me EVERYTHING. From the accident that totaled it, what was fixed, what needed fixing (really small stuff). I even told the guy, I'm about to buy this car for 9k what do you think, and we talked for like a good minute where he gave me his thoughts and he didn't even try to sell me anything. 10/10 would spend the 150 again. If you don't know anything about cars, that's a good option too.
Car is still going hella strong, and I never did anything but change tires/oil and what not.
dr_cereal ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 00:03:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for this! I'm trying to get a new car and I'm not too knowledgeable but this sounds like a great idea!
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:29:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're very welcome! Good luck, I hope you find something you like. And yeah 150ish bucks is a very small price to pay for the investment you're making.
iReallyReddit ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:10:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What brand and model if I may ask? Also why was it salvaged? Pretty much everyone advice you to avoid buying salvaged cars. So I would like to know what made your salvaged car a good buy. Thanks in advance for your reply.
Edit - Nvm abt the model. Just saw you bought a Civic.
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 11 points ¡ Posted at 00:26:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So, it was a 2014 Civic, I bought it in 2016. It had 14k miles at that point, I paid 9k (it was fixed at that point and ready to drive). Someone had hit the driver side door, and they deemed it total. Thankfully, there was 0 damage from the front where the engine is, this is 1 thing I would avoid like the plague. It was a good deal, took it to the state for inspection after I bought and now it is prior salvaged.
Funny enough, my wife's car, mine, my brother, and sister all have prior salvaged cars. My wife last year got a 1 year old Altima for 10k, that had I think about 30k miles on it. We did the same thing, took it to the dealership and they said it had 0 issues. And so far so good. I would not suggest buying flooded cars, and cars that were hit from the front. Her's was the back passenger door/trunk area. It was fixed and ready to go when we bought it.
Edit: Disclaimer: I absolutely I'm not qualified to give any sort of advice. This is just what we did and the luck we have had so far.
shaker154 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 02:18:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a few friends that by salvaged title or R title cars. Usually it's rear endor side damage or hail damage and as you said, never front end damage. Their cars usually last them 5-10 years with little issue.
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:51:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same here. Almost everyone I know prefers to do that, you get a new car for a really good price.
Indythrowaway22 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:54:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"Hella strong" Nor*Cal native?
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 01:10:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
lol nah. I should've say "yep" and "soda" to accurately reflect my geographical location lol
Jdoggcrash ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:04:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Even that doesnât work. Iâm in a supposed soda area and thereâs so many fuckers that say pop. It drives me insane. Then theyâre all like âfine how about soda pop?â No! Thatâs worse! GAHHH
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:52:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
lol I'm in Minnesota.
shaker154 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:11:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Pennsylvania or close by?
Cupcake-Warrior ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:51:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Minnesota :D
tx05 ¡ 39 points ¡ Posted at 21:10:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Funny you say that, my husband has a 2008 Kia Optima that he bought new that just passed 640k miles last week. Original engine, though transmission was replaced under warranty early on but it was only at like 40k. Every year since it hit 250k we think it will die but it just keeps going. Kia should probably study it at this point to find out what all they did right! It isn't babied either, he abuses it honestly. It is lucky to get an oil change, we don't have a garage so it is never parked under a cover, due to the nature of his job it is often driven down dirt/gravel roads, in stop and go city traffic and highway miles all in one day. Maybe it is a freak of nature but the '08 Optimas at least are ok in my book!
RickGrimesLol ¡ 23 points ¡ Posted at 01:50:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If it gets to a million contact them. Manufacturers will sometimes trade you a new model for it.
[deleted] ¡ 16 points ¡ Posted at 05:35:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
[deleted]
bot1010011010 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 14:22:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
640K ought to be enough for anybody.
bosco9 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 03:37:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I guess mine is too going by this guy's opinion, mine's almost 20 years old and it's still going
E06SP ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 11:02:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hold up
bosco9 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:02:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I meant a kia, not an optima...
thief425 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 15:30:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's still not possible for your '08 to be almost 20 years old, regardless of who made it.
Unless you're a time traveler đ
bosco9 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 16:13:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good lord, your comprehension skills are terrible, let me spell it out for you: I have a Kia that is almost 20 yrs, and no obviously it is not an Optima and definitely not from 08...
thief425 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:35:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Calm down, I was making a joke. See the reference to "time traveler" (which obviously you aren't, are you?) and the wink at the end?
1_2_bucklemystew ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:45:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Okay, that is pretty incredible. Since care and upkeep are obviously not the answer hehe, what sort of climate do you both + the car live in? Wonder if that has anything to do with its longevity.
tx05 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:12:38 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Texas, so we don't ever have to deal with freezing or snow/salt on the roads, but we do live about 40 miles from the coast.
Sukaton ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:46:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mind me asking, is this in some not so demanding area ? I mean, do you start it in -40 ever, or in minus degrees ever ? Also, 2008 it'll be 11 years old, 250k (miles? km?) is rather low km/year from where I come from. Do you drive it "empty" or with trailer (not too important, rly) ? I'm interested since friend of mine has almost the same car, bit newer but still. Nothing lasts forever, but you've still got a good specimen, don't give it up lightly :)
tx05 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:17:37 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The '08 Optima has 640,000 miles. We live in TX so no, luckily don't deal with severe cold or salt on roads, but we are only about 40 miles from coast so salt air and high humidity are the norm. Just a car so never pulling anything.
The trucks we have though are all used for pulling horse trailers and loaded flatbeds, and a 5th wheel.
MomFromFL ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:44:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love hearing a story like this, somebody who keeps driving a car as long as it runs reasonably well. Doing that can make a big impact on your ability to save for retirement or other goals.
atomic_redneck ¡ 76 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
After owning a used AMG, I would have to agree with your assessment of German cars. The only thing more expensive than a new Mercedes is a used Mercedes.
Blackpowder90 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 00:49:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Had an AMG. Bought it at 3yrs old and 40k miles. Performance was amazing, BUT.. $14k in repairs over 3 yrs. Yes, $14k. For example, a fuel pump went out...$2500.
atomic_redneck ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:46:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mine is 17 years old now. I have had it for five years. It is riddled with electrical problems due to corrosion in the connectors in the front and rear SAMs.
timmoer ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:01:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Jesus. Why was it so expensive, did they have to drop the tank?
And this is also why I am fortunate to be a car guy with the capability of doing all my own work. Parts cost is usually 10-30% of labour, and the E46 I have is so easy to work on, it goes together like lego.
Demorative ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:41:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Depends on some AMG's. I had a 09 CLK63 not too long ago in my shop. Fuel pump was $900....each. It had two. $2500 for fuel pump is definitely plausible.
Blackpowder90 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:07:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
They told me they get to it from the interior. Have to remove entire rear seating and everything around it. Apparantly one of the hardest things to get to on this car.
celtickid3112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:14:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Non-professional here. I work on my own cars for the most part.
That just doesn't make sense.
Usually rear seats are really easy to take out. Including older Mercedes.
Getting to the fuel pump from inside the car is great for folks like me! Usually if the car is designed that way there's a hatch-plate bolted on that you remove to get to the fuel pump(s).
Last time I did this was on an old C series Mercedes. Took my time so I didn't mess anything up, only took me 30 minutes to remove the seats and the hatch.
E06SP ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:14:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I'm going to go ahead and assume the dealer simply overestimated (but not by much) how long the job is going to normally take assuming you're working at a normal pace. Tbf, a nearby dealer estimates that an engine filter takes 20 minutes to change. It takes me 10 seconds.
Additionally, mechanics are not getting paid by the hour, they get paid flag time (at the dealer). Which leverages their expertise and efficiency/speed, ultimately benefitting more experienced mechanics.
Add to that workmanship warranty and a small side benefit is having a reliable service history.
celtickid3112 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 11:31:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I understand the economics of time and operation at a dealership. That is what I have an issue with, not the work or worth of a professional mechanic.
Indy shops are great, and exist for a reason. It's the same reason most of the indy shops are started by former dealer mechanics.
Skilled work deserves skilled pay, no doubt. Inflated overhead, BS, and antiquated operating systems do not.
Dealerships make the majority of their money on financing and service. The way they do that is by taking advantage of their customer. Indy shops make their money by providing better service for a lower cost. Nice bonus is that you are actually paying your mechanic for their skill and expertise - not dealership overhead.
You don't need a dealer for reliable service history. You need a good mechanic and a good owner, who keeps records.
E06SP ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:00:20 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
100% with you on dealership goals.
They straight up rip customers up the ass, it makes me feel bad every time man
barcodescanner ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 20:38:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh my god, thatâs so spot on. Although, I really love them and will spend the extra money on them (BMWs, too), but at least I know what Iâm getting into. Remember: if you like it and can afford it, donât worry about other peopleâs opinions.
Blinknone ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 20:53:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had a BMW.. I'll never make that mistake again.
barcodescanner ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:56:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You have to know what youâre getting into. Otherwise, itâll be a miserable experience. Most people donât buy them for reliability...or at least they shouldnât.
jubejube321 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 23:19:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a benz and it's so hard to remember this because everyone and their dog has something to say about it. I don't care how other spend their money, so don't mind mine.
barcodescanner ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:20:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What kinda Benz?
jubejube321 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:14:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A 2013 C350!
timmoer ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:03:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I kinda hate people's opinions though, but there isn't a whole lot I can do about it. I bought an E46 because it ticks all the boxes in what I want out of a car, I couldn't care less about the fact it's a BMW. And me buying my car with my own money when I was 18 seemed to give people the impression that I was a spoiled rich kid, when the new Corolla parked across from it cost 3x the amount.
calmor15014 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:08:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Cracked a wheel. Mercedes wants $1200 for one. BBS has a nice set of four for $1200.
Found out one of the others was cracked too, making this a no-brainer.
Dealer wants $750 for spark plug replacement... and $750 for trans fluid flush and filter replacement. Seems like one of these should be harder / more costly than the other.
DarthDanDan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:24:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The price has less to do with the difficulty of the job and more to do with the time it takes. Also donât forget youâre paying for all the different people who handle the car at one point or another (service advisor, porter, the technician, car wash, etc.) plus the cost to keep the lights on. Not saying it isnât a tad over priced, just that there are a lot of factors.
Demorative ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:43:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Depends on the car. If you have a older car (00-06) then the engine has two spark plugs per cylinder. Depending on which engine you have, you could have anywhere from 12 spark plugs (V6) to 16 spark plugs (V8) or even 24 plugs (V12). At $13 per spark plugs, the price gets way up there in a hurry.
celtickid3112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:28:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Still shenanigans.
My wife has a 2013 Charger with a 5.7L hemi. So 16 copper spark plugs. The plugs are about $3.50/plug. That's $56 in parts. It took me (non mechanic) about 2 hours in my backyard, talking sweet time to make sure I did it right.
2 hours at dealer labor where I live is about $200-225. Quoted price of service was $450+ tax and shop fees. Even being generous that's a $175 markup on copper spark plugs.
Demorative ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:40:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Copper, that's why so cheap. Iridium is what they use, and dealer hourly rate are usually $175-220 depending on the service adviser, and the spark plugs also have huge markup.
$750 is on the lower end, actually. I've seen $1200 bill for R&R on a W220 when I used to work there. Book is roughly 3.5.
celtickid3112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:04:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My old Grand Prix with the ls4 used iridium spark plugs. $13/plug. Same story.
$220/hr for labor is ridiculous. It's not like they are a diesel tech doing a rebuild or something.
That's exactly my point - the markup is ridiculous!
It's just a lot of folks don't realize they are being taken now. Spark plugs used to just be regular owner maintenance, now most people have no point of reference in what is expensive/costly vs what is price gouging.
MIB65 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:13:33 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
I beg to differ! My used SAAB was very expensive. Think a drug habit would have been cheaper... I said goodbye when it really just got too silly to keep paying for repairs.
mlhradio ¡ 43 points ¡ Posted at 20:40:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was also in the "stay away from Kia" camp, based on their early reputation. Until I got a 2009 Kia Rondo, which lasted until last September clocking in at 349,000 miles. And very little engine work needed during its life (just regular car maintenance stuff).
shaker154 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:23:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My parents have had 3 Kia's as their last 3 vehicles. My Dad's 2008 Rio made it to 250 k miles before the seals went and even then it still ran fairly well. My mom's 2011 Sportage is still going strong at 190k miles with some slight vibration and only maintenance related issues. My Dad's 16 Sportage has had next to no issues in 90k miles. All in all they've been great cars.
TheHalfEatenSausage ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:29:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So you were in the "stay away from Kia" camp when you bought one then?
gburgwardt ¡ -5 points ¡ Posted at 00:13:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I feel like 350k isn't amazing. Not bad though for sure
darthlame ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 11:35:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How many miles are you reasonably expecting a vehicle to last? If you live in an area that gets salted roads in the winter, if your car lasts 150k miles without anything major needed, you are either washing it weekly in the winter, or you got incredibly lucky
laxt ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 20:45:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
In December 2018, my '97 Camry drove like a cloud into the dealership where I bought my next car, and only gave up on the Camry because a mechanic that my family trusts who I took to inspect it told me that it was more expensive to pass inspection than the car is worth.
That car didn't give me any problems. Bought it for $2,000 in 2010.
I bought a 2016 Jetta. Oops. Actually it runs really well, and I'm pretty careful about upkeep, so I'm not too worried. I'm not expecting it to run for 21 years, though.
johhan ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 22:05:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nicely put, to be sure. My small indie mechanic lovingly calls my 07 Hyundai Accent âthe shitboxâ, but itâs at 140k without major issue, and heâs been maintaining it for all 140k.
I will say the coil packs like to die every couple years and he has a case of replacements he bought just for them. Itâs routine enough that I can just call him when the misfires start and he comes over to take 5 minutes under the hood with me swapping them and charges me a beer.
GGibbbz ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks a lot for the info and taking the time to write this.
sixesand7s ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a 2012 Hyundai Accent and it has been a godsend, only repairs have been tune-ups, oil changes, and new brakes/rotors, burns a bit of oil but it has been fantastic
ItsRhyno ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:50:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Can confirm. Bought a 2013 golf gti pp for almost 30k in late 2013. A water pump change was 1800 with vw. Local garage did it for 350 all in. This was covered under recall in the us, in Ireland it wasnât. I also have no rust warranty while US car does.
existentialjeweler ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:50:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had a '12 gti. Loved the piss out of it, but it averaged $1100/year. Have you had the carbon hand scraped out of it yet? I almost fell over when my vw technician brother told me I'd have to do that every 3-4 years ($1600 on just that service).
560guy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:53:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sorry to be a dick, but I have to disagree with your analysis on Hyundai Kia cars. From my experience (worked at a dealer) the Hyundaiâs from after 2010 were unreliable as hell. The best of Hyundai reliability seems to be from 2007 to 2010. For anyone who cares, look up 2011 Hyundai Sonata recall list and major complaints. Theyâre pretty scary. I could never recommend one to someone
E06SP ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 11:00:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I just got a 2017 Mazda, pre owned certified (was really surprised by the length of powertrain warranty!)
Any thoughts on these? Too late now to decide but just out of curiosity
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mazdas are not bad cars. I haven't seen any glaring issues at my shop, but they're not as popular as other cars, so I don't see a ton of them. My buddy is the service manager at a Mazda dealer. He's pretty impressed by their quality and he says they do mainly maintenance on the cars as they're not having very many issues with them.
E06SP ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:02:11 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you! I will definitely keep recommending Mazda then :}
limeyfrog ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not all English and German cars. I would say don't touch old Range Rovers - they are a money pit and BMWs get progressively more fragile with age.
drummerakajordan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:13:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any opinion on Nissan? I'm looking into getting a used car for around 5k and seeing tons of 2012-2014 Versas and Altimas, just wondering if that's for any particular reason.
Blue_Mando ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:17:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There are a few reasons so many of those are around.
First something they were inexpensive cars to begin with so they sold thousands of them. Part of this is also that Nissan is known to lend to people with less than perfect credit (FCA is known for this as well) and so someone who maybe couldn't get financed for a Honda but was close to it was probably able to pick up a Nissan.
Secondly, Nissan's are just not as reliable as the Toyota or Honda, Altimas and Maximas if memory serves of that vintage are also prone to having their floor pans rot out (think the Flintstones) so if you live in an area that salts the roads make sure you check the pans especially the passenger side.
Finally, Nissan uses a CVT transmission and (having driven one recently) it wasn't as horrid as I would have expected, they have issues with well, blowing up. Like the quality on the Nissan version of this trans just seems to suck (which is weird because the same manufacturer does the Subaru CVT and those don't seem to grenade). CVTs are also expensive to replace and most places won't try to repair them unlike a normal automatic transmission.
Hope that helps.
drummerakajordan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:11:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Gotcha. So between a 2014 Nissan, 2013 Focus/Impala, or a 2010 Accord/Carolla, you'd take the 2010 most of the time? Even if the Accord miles are around 120k vs 80/90k for Nissan/Ford?
Blue_Mando ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:56:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In the grand scheme of things 30k is two years worth of driving for most folks. I would say in general if the cars are equally well maintained and in otherwise good shape I'd probably take the Accord or Carolla. This is from someone that owns a Ford. ;)
In all honesty though a well maintained car past 1995 or so should get you 200k miles. This isn't the 60s, cars don't just have motors seize from sloppy tolerances these days. Keep oil in it, check the tires since a month, trans fluid, etc. And for the most part you're good.
drummerakajordan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for your help!
Necessary-Asparagus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:06:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do not buy a versa at any cost they are built as cheaply as possible. Altimas are alright but the CVT transmissions are not very reliable. I worked at a nissan dealership for a while. Recommendations aligns with OP try not to buy the smallest vehicle made by any automaker they're generally unreliable
FurTrader58 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:51:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Building off that, what about the modern CVT transmissions a lot of cars are using? My brother and cousin both work at dealerships (my cousin specially as a mechanic at Toyota) and have said that the CVT transmissions almost always have expensive issues down the road.
Manual cars aside, is there any weight to this? Iâm planning to buy a car in the very near future and have been told everything by everyone, and havenât yet decided what I want to get. I donât really want to go back more than 3 years in age, though Iâve considered new and some have said itâs a bad investment, donât do it.
Thoughts?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:31:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm not a big fan of CVT transmissions. I refer all transmission work to a shop that specializes in transmissions. They won't even break open a CVT. Too complicated. Nissan seems to have had the worst luck with CVT transmissions. Toyota has been a late adopter of CVT. Not sure how theirs fare. But the CVT in their hybrid vehicles is a design specific to hybrid cars, and I have yet to run into a Prius (I work on a lot....own one too) that has had transmission problems.
FurTrader58 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:59:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good to know, Iâll keep that in mind! Thanks!
ScrappyOtter ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:13:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have an old joke about those old KIAs âWhat does KIAâ stand for? âSome assembly requiredâ
Dumb, I know but every old KIA owner Iâve known thought it was funny as hell. And very true. A good friend of mine was forever holding her car together with zip ties. She kept a tube of them in the trunk.
This is a great list, thank you for this! When I was young I always felt awkward about messing about with a car that wasnât mine. Especially since the owners would sometimes act annoyed and get huffy when you started looking at it and poking around.
Of course, that meant there was something wrong with it, which is another great tell.
DJDemyan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:23:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What's your thoughts on the last generation (specifically 2003) Hyundai Tiburon GT? I've read that they're pretty solid cars, and I've had little issue with mine.
HerpankerTheHardman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:37:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well here's a good question for you, of these three brands you mentioned, which one is best as a hybrid?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 02:54:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Toyota. They've been doing it the longest.
HerpankerTheHardman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:02:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you find that the hybrids are more expensive to repair? Do you think they're worth it?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:23:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
They are far less to maintain than gas cars. As far as repairing, my main hybrid experience is with Priuses. I have a lot of customers with Priuses. I havent had to do much on them on the hybrid side of things. Some inverter pumps, some coolant control valves, that's about it, and several batteries. Everything but the battery has been very reasonable. The expensive one is the hybrid battery. It's about 2300-2500 to fix (shop price). But I've never had to do one on a Prius that didn't have less than 200k miles. I havent had to do any at all on the Gen3 or Gen4 Prius. I have had some blown motors on the Gen2's. That was on 250k plus cars with the owners never checking their oil. Gen2's like pretty much most high mileage cars, burn oil. But they burn a bit more than most. Gotta check that oil. As for Gen 3s, blown head gaskets. usually above 200k but the other week I had one at 140k.
Are they worth it. I think so, especially if you go plug in hybrid. I bought one myself this year.
HerpankerTheHardman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:28:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Whoa, what's a plug-in hybrid?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:37:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's a mix between a regular hybrid and a full electric car. It has a larger battery that allows you to operate in full electric mode. Since it's still a hybrid, it has a gas engine and a fuel tank, so there's not much room for a huge battery. Where you get 200-300 miles range on an electric car, you get about 30-40 in full electric mode on a plug in because you can't fit the larger battery. Then it switches to normal hybrid mode. My plug in is a gen 3 Prius plug in, so since it was one of the first years of plug ins, it only has about 9 miles range on full electric. That works great for me. I live about 4 miles form work. So I charge it up at work. If I go to lunch, I put it back on the charger. I drive home, drive back to work, put it back on the charger. All electric. I rarely put gas in it.
HerpankerTheHardman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:53:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow, NICE! I'd like one of those one day.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:58:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Plug ins are just a temporary stepping stone between hybrid and full electric cars. If by "one day" you mean like 3 or 4 years in the future, just get full electric. They're getting better really fast. By then they should be the best option.
HerpankerTheHardman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:03:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you, I probably will.
Skyblacker ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:38:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
But I want one! Mostly because, okay, BTTF is my comfort food. Tell me why it's at the bottom, and what you'd recommend instead (bonus points if it has gull wing doors).
_Ki115witch_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:23:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I remember my mechanic saying that I should get a Hyundai because he rarely sees them in his shop, because they rarely break down.
PinkRoseBouquet ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:25:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ditto on Hyundai. I bought my 2010 model at 36000 miles in 2011. Super reliable, Iâm still using it as my daily driver.
MIB65 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:11:49 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
I am in Australia, yep the burning country... I had a European car that needed a repair and a great mechanic told me, that although the repair wasnât much cost, that I should sell my car and get a Japanese car - Subaru, Mazda or Toyota . Second choice - Mitsubishi or Honda (but only if first 3 not available in my price range). Most European cars just canât handle the heat (even when the country is not burning) and they also donât like our roads, especially the cities. Sydney, for example, has many roads with bitumen rolled over sandstone.
I bought a Mazda. I looked at Subarus and Toyotas but the problem with them is because they are so reliable, second hand ones tend to be run in too much, they usually have many, many kms or miles on the odometer.
Ps Toyota aircon is the best! For a hot climate like ours, amazing!
CampaignSpoilers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:27:08 on January 7, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Id edit that Hyundai Kia number down to 2007/2008, thats when the reliable models launched.
MysteriousProfile6 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:29:30 on February 7, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Id be willing to put nissan/mercedes in top 3 as well. Nissan is great with fuel efficiency and mercedes is great with quality. Now how people treat their cars (repairs, oil change, tire damage, car usage) takes a huge part in to the efficiency of your car. Have to respect any car if you want if for long term.
bubbleharmony ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:07:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For /u/GGibbbz's sake, this is fuckin' wild. It's true some European cars tend to need special equipment and experience to deal with them, but the suggestion they need avoided is crazy. We've had Volkswagens and Audis in my family for decades and never had any more issues with them than any other car. Plenty reliable and great cars.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 00:21:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm glad your small data set of 5 or 10 cars has been good to you. But I see 40-50 cars a week, and I've been open for 10 years. That's a lot of cars. Guess which ones I find the most problems with when inpsecting? German cars (and Chryslers). Guess which ones have the highest repair bills? German cars.
spiderqueendemon ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:08:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's been my limited experience that cars are like shoes, bluejeans or mounts in a roleplaying game. The right car perfectly matched to just the right person to love driving and owning it will be simply shockingly reliable, even if the make usually isn't that great, whereas a great car that's just wrong for its' human will experience freaky failures that make people gasp when they hear such a normally-reliable make did what now right upside the road? All the ball bearings?
Basically, if people love their cars enough, it grants a circumstantial buff to reliability, like a +5/2d6, while people who don't enjoy owning their cars experience a roughly commensurate penalty.
So it is quite possible that your Volkswagens and Audis do so nicely not because all Volkswagens and Audis in general are anything special, but because your family are just uncommonly excellent Volkswagen and Audi owners. Which is an even better compliment, come to think of it, than merely buying a reliable car. Anyone can just buy something. It takes something special to be good at maintenance.
After all, I have an uncle who drove and fixed his own actual Yugo for five years driving pizza delivery, because buying something better would have cut into the money he needed to afford an apartment that let him keep his three-legged rescue dog. The Yugo never needed a thing but tires, gas, oil and occasional baling wire, and Uncle Jon still speaks well of it because it let him give Trike a good home until he passed.
There are worse things than having a Feat (Improbably Durable Car) on your character sheet.
glitteristheanswer ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:04:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I...I need you to describe buying cars/used cars in rpg/gamer speak. This makes so much more sense to me.
spiderqueendemon ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:33:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm the faculty advisor for the tabletop RPG club and a third of my kids are working toward their learner's permits. I swear my mouth got stuck this way.
glitteristheanswer ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:36:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well I'm 25 and relearning how to drive so if you want to rpg explain cars BE MY GUEST I've spent too many years not driving and making games and now that I'm finally allowed to sit in a car again I just look around and am like wow I lost all xp in mechanical and driving skillsets
Good_Behavior_Day ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 20:52:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hyundai/Kia after 2010 have gotten pretty bad. There was a recall on the engines failing due to machining problems and the timing chains are stretching. I'd take an earlier Hyundai/KIA with a V6 before anything after 2012.
Harrythe1andOnly ¡ 50 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Avoid luxury brands unless you want to buy luxury priced parts. As a mechanic I'm not a big fan of working on GM shit but that doesn't mean you can't work with it. If you want something reliable Toyotas and Honda's are notorious in that regard which is likely why you've been receiving such recommendations
LOLBaltSS ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There are many that have an equivalent lower tier version that may make parts cheaper if you can cross reference parts. Aka: don't only look up the Cadillac Escalade part number, look up the equivalent Chevy/GMC part numbers. I have time and time again saved money because I knew to look up the various part numbers for the same part shared between different badge engineered versions of the same vehicles. Be it the Cobalt/G5/Ion or the Grand Am/Achieva/Skylark.
loicfoto ¡ 16 points ¡ Posted at 01:19:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Starter for a Lamborghini Gallardo is about $2,000- same starter goes in a VW TDI Beetle from the same year- $70, for instance.
Harrythe1andOnly ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 23:00:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is good advice for if your working on your own car/know the guy that is but the average Joe doesn't source they're own parts they just take it to the shop and want it fixed
Reaper_Grim_79 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:26:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've heard about cross referencing parts when a co-worker had an old Caddy. If you would please, how does one go about cross referencing parts?
LOLBaltSS ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:06:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Most of this comes down to figuring out what cars share common components/chassis and going from there. To make it a bit simplified, if you look up your car on Wikipedia, it'll usually have the GM "body" or "platform" and a lot of times will tell you what related models it shares them with. GM also re-uses powertrains between models (such as the EcoTec or LS family) that you can interchange parts with in a lot of cases.
I'll use the Delta Platform since that's the one I'm the most familiar with. I drive the 2.0L Cobalt SS Supercharged and in the past have had a 2.2L Pontiac G5. These two are so badge engineered that there's only a real handful of differences. The G5 for example has unique tail lights, reverse lights and grille surround. The rest of the car is basically interchangable with Cobalt parts (and there have been plenty of people that would convert a Cobalt into a G5 since it all bolts up). The only caveat with the Cobalt/G5 being that the G5 never got the 2.0L LSJ/LNF engines the Cobalt SS had. There are others in the platform such as the HHR and Ion; but many of their parts will also interchange with the others. Other platforms do have more sheet metal differences, but still have a commonality in parts (such as the "N-Body" platform that included cars such as the Grand Am, Skylark, Malibu, Achieva, Alero... etc depending on model year). The Ecotec engines in a lot of GM cars are also related since engines like the 2.2L L61 was used in a wide range of GM Passenger cars in the mid-2000s. The LS series is shared between many models as well as having a massive aftermarket. The LS engines are also often found in non-GM cars ("On a long enough timeline, everything gets an LS").
GM Full Size Trucks/SUVs tend to be pretty much just up trimmings of one another on the various GMT platforms. A Chevrolet Suburban is the base, the GMC Yukon is the mid-range, and the Cadillac Escalade is the top out. Ditto the Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra trucks.
There are some sites that can help with this as well. AutoZone has a cross reference search (here) and I find often times eBay sellers are fairly good about putting what cars a particular part works with.
Reaper_Grim_79 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks, I greatly appreciate the time you took to type all that. Happy New Year!
risfun ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:09:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Notorious means famous for a bad reason! :)
Harrythe1andOnly ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:56:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Uh that is the normal connotation but I don't think it's incorrect as the word itself is usually defined as famous nonetheless
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:41:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
[deleted]
Harrythe1andOnly ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:33:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Your right Lexus could well be the one exception, but overall I feel this still holds true, and as time goes on (while we still see plenty and the parts are still easy to get) that set of early 00's cars are aging
sqrumpy ¡ 45 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you want a reliable used car, then Hondas and Toyotas are regarded as some of the most reliable vehicles. Lexus(which is just another Toyota brand) and Mazda also make reliable vehicles, but are a bit more pricey. If you want brands to really avoid, donât buy from Chrysler or any of the brands they own, like Jeep. Chevy and Volkswagens arenât great either. Every car is going to have its problems, and every car has its good aspects. Assuming youâre looking for a reliable everyday driver, Hondas and Toyotas are generally the best. Also look into which company builds each make you look at. There are some males under one brand that have been made by another, for example the Toyota Supra is made by BMW, which means it doesnât have Toyotas renowned reliability.
GGibbbz ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to respond.
techtornado ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:23:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One thing to note, Electric cars are now taking the spotlight for being the most reliable and low maintenance vehicle.
While yes, they are not perfect/it might need a new battery in 15-20 years, but that is still a serious contender for true reliability in the daily commute.
celtickid3112 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 10:36:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Huge factor here is battery degradation. Liquid cooled batteries have a MUCH longer lifespan than air-cooled batteries.
There are a bunch of 1st Gen Nissan Leafs (leaves?) Which are crazy cheap for low miles because the batteries are losing capacity.
In addition, new battery tech is miles ahead of previous development - literally. A few years ago 100 mi range in ideal conditions was news. Now 200+ mile ranges are the expectation.
As far as maintenance costs though, BEVs are the way to go - as long as you have a liquid cooled battery in good condition!
techtornado ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 15:31:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yep, the Nissan Leaf is a better option for Europe than America.
I appreciate your reply of not being an EV-hater, you'd be surprised as to how much FUD there is (all based on lies) about the electric revolution.
I have a 2014 Leaf and 2017 Volt in Tennessee, and so far the Leaf battery is holding up quite well.
Plus, the battery degradation isn't the end of the world, you lose a few miles every few years, just like how one's iPhone loses some battery capacity every year or so.
If it's a busy month, it's about $40 in electricity for both cars and a much better deal than gas.
For me, I would love to see more DC fast chargers in more places along the highway/get them to be as common as gas stations.
An EV that has a 250mi highway range and can recharge 200mi in 20 minutes will be perfect for my occasional long-distance trip to the beach. Now to get the hotels to invest in destination charging...
Yes, the Tesla Model 3 is the current contender, but their up-front cost is a bit high for my budget right now.
Local EV driving and $15 in gas every 800mi is a fairly good deal right now. ($2.15/gal)
celtickid3112 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 15:46:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Definitely not a hater. Just more of a skeptical realist.
The battery degradation and range anxiety basically falls into two camps:
those who never needed to stress it in the first place, because they don't drive more than 20-40 miles a day
those who can't get an old BEV, and can barely do a new one, because they daily drive more than half the max charge each day (this was me. I almost got one).
For the latter group, battery degradation is HUGE.
I am really excited for an EV future, but it's not here yet. We need more infrastructure. I am pretty interested in the new Rivian prototypes though.
nirvroxx ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love jeeps. Always have. Got a 97 tj(wrangler) with 100k miles and it ran great right around 140 k...the rear axle went bad. Twice. Then the transmission started failing. After that i cut my losses and inherited my wifes 98 limited 4runner. It has 260k miles. Original engine and transmission and runs so good. On fact it was more capable off road than my tj was! I still like jeeps(cjs and tjs specifically) but ill only own one once i have more disposable income to throw at it once the inevitable breaking down starts.
siler7 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:25:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A girl I worked with was considering buying a Jeep, and I told her basically what you're saying. So what did she buy? A Volkswagen Eos.
glitteristheanswer ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:14:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks this is really helpful! I'm someone who's looking for a used car after years of not driving (dont worry I'm retaking driving classes since that muscle memory is gone). I heard similar that a lot of average americans think smart cars suck because they're small, but they're made by mercedes and are actually great cars.
For context: I'm a very petite woman looking for a smaller car and live in a city. Past cars I drove qerent by choice (parents) and all were way too big for me and american or european, new or old, doesnt matter if a car is too bug for you.
Now to see if I can find anything like this on the fiat i like...
celtickid3112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:30:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Only point to raise here is not to blindly buy based on badge. Go by particular model/generation. For non car savvy people, an easy way to do this is to look at the resale value/depreciation rate for the car in question.
For example: agree that many Chrysler products are unreliable. The LX platform cars are very reliable. Talking Charger, 300, Challenger. The Chargers and Challengers hold their value exceptionally well.
My wife has a 2013 Charger R/T. It's got 130k on the clock, we've put half of that on there. Only non-maintenance repairs in 65k were a faulty CANBUS module and two wheel speed sensors. Total cost was something like $400 over 5 years.
Now some regular maintenance items are expensive - tires, brakes, rotors, etc. That's true of any heavy car.
Xerxos ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:21:55 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Really? At least here in Germany, VW is quiet reliable
SSNappa ¡ 67 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Hondas and Toyota are super common in the US, which means parts and finding someone experienced with them are gonna be cheaper and easier to find.
I'd recommend staying away from BMWs, and cadalics more than anything.
BMWs are like boats where you throwing money into a bottomless pit and Caddys are way too expensive for the smallest repair
Vermillionbird ¡ 70 points ¡ Posted at 20:06:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
BMW prices their parts like they've been hand built from solid aluminium by a wizened german machinist located deep within the black forest
LankyPuffins ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:44:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My mind conjured the image of Tim the Enchanter at this comment.
optimusfunk ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:17:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When I first skimmed your comment I thought you wrote wizard rather than wizened, and then I figured you might as well have considering the prices.
Buggy77 ¡ 26 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Backing up your point of staying away from bmw unless you have lots of disposable income. I had a 3 series a few years ago and it is outrageous to keep up with the car. Something like $450 for a fucking battery and most mechanics donât like working on bmws so u have to take it to the dealer. They literally open up their computer and try to sell you $2000 worth of shit without even looking at the car! They tried to tell me I needed brakes because the computer said so. They hadnât even seen my car yet.
countryboy432 ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Changing the oil, oh my God! $300.00! Had a 500 series and it drove like a goat wagon. Traded it for two Hyundais that ran like tops!
[deleted] ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 21:22:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
countryboy432 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 21:25:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
US and granted this was 15 years ago. My friend's swear by their BMW. Maybe a bad experience, but high maintenance was an issue.
RGB755 ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 20:14:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Never forget that the literal BMW engineering motto at inception was that âthe car has to sell itself again in the workshop.â
mollymurph ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 13:11:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My daughter is in college and dating a guy who knows less than nothing about cars. He decides that a man of his stature needs a fine ride, so he spends $4K on a clapped out 3 series BMW. This obviously becomes an epic story of why a broke-assed pizza delivery boy should never own an old German car.
One day the POS fails to start. He calls for a wrecker, and has it dropped off at the DEALER. They jump the car, and get it on the lift to start the "free safety inspection" process. The service writer then informs pizza boy that they can't really let the car leave without $1200 in emergency repairs. They also strongly suggest an additional $4K in urgently needed additional work. The kid is in a panic, and jumps on social media. He get's the good advice to settle up with the dealer, leave the car running, and get it to a trustworthy independent shop. The independent guy inspects the car, tells the kid the battery died of old age, the car is safe to drive, needs nothing else at the moment, and the bill is $125.......................
[deleted] ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:21:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
Buggy77 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 23:24:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Idk Iâm from the US. The bmw I bought was only 4 years old but it just felt like a money pit. Never experienced that with any other cars
raymanh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Such a generalisation! Yes some BMW models are known to have certain issues like like VANOS and nikasil, but you cannot just reccomend avoiding ALL BMWs. Every manufacturer has a few models with known issues.
Rumourlove ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:46:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Have a 15 328i Xdrive loaded to the brim with 45k on it and Iâve not had a single issue. Like, at all. Itâs easily the best car Iâve owned. Iâve had extremely bad luck with Ford/GM cars.
I get the stigma, but Iâve never felt more secure driving a car and I live in the NE US. Snow, ice, sleet etc. dominates it all.
PretendKangaroo ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:36:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have heard Honda isn't quite what it used to be but Toyota is easily the most reliable car anyone can buy especially their flagship models. The parts and maintenance are cheap compared to everything else. In the end of the day it's still a car and things can go wrong every which way for a variety of reasons. It still matters what you are looking for as well. I say reliable and cost-friendly but by no means is Toyota a nicer car than a BMW or Mercedes. I know plenty of people who have got decades worth out of each with routine matinence but it certainly costs more. I know a lot of wealthier folks who swear by diesel Mercedes. As far as bad brands go, Jeep, Fiat and pretty much any US brand are pretty meh.
__loves2spooge__ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:58:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's true all else being equal but you're also going to get a lot less car (or a lot older car) for your money if it's a Toyota/Honda, on the used market at least.
That's the corollary of Toyota/Honda holding value well. Great for a new car buyer not so great for a used car buyer.
pgh_ski ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:24:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Cars that may tempt you (because they are cheap) that you should avoid like the plague - dodge, Chrysler, jeep. Anything made by Fiat Chrysler.
Well known in the car world for terrible quality control.
Other domestic brands like Chevy (which I've owned a few of) are more hit are miss. There's some gems in there.
Honda and Toyota are generally the most reliable cars on the road. and suabrus are decent in that department but not as much as the other two.
ahhawhawhaw ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:25:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
European manufacturers in general. BMW, Mercedes, and Alfa Romeo if I had to pick. Great looking cars and great performance. However, the fact that I see one BMW or Mercedes loaner vehicle on the freeway often says a lot. I also have a friend who owned a Mercedes that caused him headaches. He ended up selling it to buy a Prius lol.
I owned one Honda and one Toyota prior to purchasing my current car (Toyota). Never had a problem. Just took care of the oil changes.
Np1248 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:50:31 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
All of them.
McDClanLeader ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:44:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a great guide. I wish my little brother and sister would have read this before buying their last cars. I am definitely saving this for next time I am buying a car, just so I don't forget to check everything.
yo_Mtv_Raps_waz_dope ¡ -1 points ¡ Posted at 20:57:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why u deleted??? I actually need a used car
Doommajor ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I am a couple of years from buying a car but I did the same.
godloki ¡ 19 points ¡ Posted at 19:30:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Everytime I've bought a used car, I've taken it on a test drive straight from the dealer to a mechanic and had them give it a full inspection / test. It's a few hundred dollars, but it'll save you a few thousand on the wrong purchase. If they WON'T let you take the car to get an full vehicle inspection done, walk away. Most will at the smaller used car dealerships. At the end of the day they're trying to sell good cars for a profit, not take people for suckers.
Oliweira_4 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:13:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Exactly, I will save this cuz It will 100% be helpful someday, thank you OP
SolarMatter ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same here. All good info though even if not currently in the market. Definitely saving this post for when I am in the market though. Thanks for taking the time to put all this together. I wish you were my mechanic.
chrisl182 ¡ 5569 points ¡ Posted at 16:20:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So I don't just go around and kick all four tyres?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2418 points ¡ Posted at 17:13:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can, but you might be adding your own butt to that list after you buy it!
apginge ¡ 52 points ¡ Posted at 20:51:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
OP is 100% dad
JustaRandomguy9999 ¡ 372 points ¡ Posted at 19:04:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
exhaust pipe FTFY
anotherformerlurker ¡ 102 points ¡ Posted at 19:18:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great, now i'll never look at cars the same way again
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 151 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Have you not heard of the Mercury Mistress?
aNANOmaus ¡ 45 points ¡ Posted at 20:18:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Gives a hole new meaning to "Used Car" ( ͥ° ÍĘ ÍĄÂ°)
Camboo91 ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 23:03:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Before buying a used car make sure to check the sperm tank for signs of excessive wear and tear.
9curlyfries9 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:27:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Needs a new hole
papabardo ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ah yes, my first car. Airbag suspension would not fully inflate so I felt every hum- I mean bump.
warlord91 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Might be the best thing ive seen all day
ScrappyOtter ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:07:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Omg that was a great one!! Haha!
Forsaken_Accountant ¡ 19 points ¡ Posted at 19:25:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh no
Hipppydude ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:16:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No more potatoes!
wise_comment ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:43:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you're exhausted, you've done the community a great service
MugillacuttyHOF37 ¡ 44 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great list, youâve done a service for those who are not mechanically inclined. I love cars and feel fairly knowledgeable, but I still learned a few tips here. OBD reader is a fantastic investment that more people should buy!
rubywpnmaster ¡ 88 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
i disagree with this. The best thing they can do is take it to a mechanic for inspection if interested in it. The typical cost in TX for a pre-sale inspection is about 50-100 bucks and most of them are weirdly excited to point out every flaw in the car.
bitofafuckup ¡ 45 points ¡ Posted at 23:02:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I mean it makes sense. They're hoping that they can impress you with their diagnostic skills/overall car knowledge because they want more of your business down the line regardless of what car you end up buying.
therealbigbossx ¡ 35 points ¡ Posted at 23:49:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Surely you want to have some baseline for if a car might be worth buying or not. You're not going to take every car you're interested in to a mechanic and drop 100s when you can do some basic observations yourself.
Beastysymptoms ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I disagree with you. Most technicians or shops are only doing a basic multi point inspection and a quick visual check when you bring it in. When your getting a pre inspection your not always getting the truth, you could buy the car becuase it passed pre inspection, and a day later it starts having problems. That's not the techs fault, that's the nature of cars. Sometimes you just cant tell if theres a problem until the problem can be replicated. The advice OP posted is better than most pre inspections. At the most a shop might test for OBD codes if the CEL is on.
That noted OP gave very good advice, but it may not be practical to alot of the people who read it. OP seems like he knows his cars, and I think the knowledge he considers basic and easy, is actually a bit more advanced for people who are seeking advice on how to inspect a used car.
For instance, clear flood crank/relative compression tests often require a trained ear that knows what they are listening to. Someone who does not have experience listening to good and bad compression may not understand what they are hearing.
However that said, these things can be learned by anybody with some research and practice, and imo are just as important to know as knowing how to change a battery. It's also more thorough than what alot of shops do on there "inspections."
If OP takes the time to do these things on his pre inspections, than that is a good shop to go to. I work auto manufacturing now, but at my last shop, we would send the car to the high school lube techs for an MPI.
rikkitikkitavi888 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:18:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
are the high school lube techs like vocational mechanic students?
Beastysymptoms ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:31:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No just young kids
MWDTech ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:39:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wasn't that literally op's first suggestion?
DBON-Blog ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 02:09:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A ton of sound advice in this post! Let me add some of my own experience, and advice from my old man.
Little background on me. I am a DIY mechanic who has assisted my father since about 13 on his race car, family cars, my cars. Took auto for 3 years in high school. I have only paid more than 800 dollars on 2 vehicles in my life. One was a truck I bought with 207k on it that had a plow and was a 3/4 ton pick up. Paid 2800 drove it for 8 years and the oil rings went at 325. The other is my wives car. Its paid off, and has over 230k on it. All but 1 of my cars/light trucks lasted me years. If you are wondering, yes I bought it from a guy who worked for a dealer.
Buy the car from the owner. Go to their house, look at their house. Do they keep their house maintained? Ask them a ton of questions. How long have they owned it? Who did they get it from? What problems has it had? Why are they getting rid of it? Red flags. It's my friends and they are putting it on my lawn. I work for a dealership.
Avoid "it just needs....." or "my mechanic said" You ae just buying a problem and/or buying a problem from someone who doesn't know/care what said problem is. Especially if it is a head gasket, or a thermostat. Avoid any car that has overheated. Period.
Take your knee and push the car down by its bumper. All it should do is come back up and stop. If it bounces it has bad shocks.
I'll reiterate if the car is warm/running/started before you get there it is a red flag. Car should be cold, and start under it's own power.
Lay down and look under the car. Look for leaks of any kind, oily metal, rust rot.
Pop hood and check fluids as described in the post.
Test drive. Does it drive in a straight line? Does the car feel like it is straining, or feel sluggish? Make weird noises? Get the car up to highway speeds, some noises don't manifest until high speeds.
Run/drive car for 30 min. This gets it up to operating temp. Which means the cooling system is up to operating pressure. Meaning if it leaks coolant, might have been overheated. This is the point to check under the car a second time. Also check the exhaust for excessive steam, water. At pressure, if the head gasket leaks into the cylinder, it will come out of the tail pipe.
Happy hunting.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:25:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
All good info. Thanks for the additions.
604_heatzcore ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also check floors to make sure nothing is wet ( sign of leak somewhere)
bananaramabazam ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:03:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why the hell did this post get deleted? What the fuck did you do?
MugillacuttyHOF37 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great list, youâve done a service for those who are not mechanically inclined. I love cars and feel fairly knowledgeable, but I still learned a few tips here. OBD reader is a fantastic investment that more people should buy!
starrpamph ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was helping someone buy a used Chrysler product. Brought My micropod II and laptop.. Dealer selling it thought I was crazy
stfucupcake ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Were you able to spot anything?
starrpamph ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:58:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No, the car had software updates available, that was about it. There is a lot of stuff that isn't monitored though, like blend door actuator gears being broken. always cycle through all modes and temperatures.
MegaBBY88 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:53:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey this was a great post but I disagree with number 5. I live in a small town with a lot of indie mechanics and Iâve found that theyâre way more likely to overlook shit. The last guy I took my car to forgot to put a caliper bolt back in. And he still passed my car on a safety inspection!
Mandalf_the_Ghey ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:39:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This amazing advice.
Can I ask you what vehicle you would go with today, and what ones you'd stay away from?
I might need something with 7 seats in it before long and I burn many, many hours watching and reading reviews.
The issue I have is many reviews focus only on the aesthetics of a vehicle and gloss over the reliability/mechanical aspects.
Where can I go to find a good MECHANICAL new car review?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 06:29:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't know of any mechanical reviews unfortunately. And looking to things like JD Power New Car Reliability Awards is a bunch of BS. Just ask Mahk about that.
As for what I'd buy, let me preface it by saying I've always had turbo/supercharged/modified cars. I love power and speed and tinkering with cars. When things like the Prius came out, I poo-poo'd on them big time. You know what I bought this year? A Prius plug-in.
I've gotten a taste of electric, and to be honest, I'll never buy another internal combustion engine car again, unless it's a classic or something like that. Electric is so much nicer. It's super quiet, I rarely have to go to the gas station (it's still partially ICE and the electric only is limited range), I can fuel up at home while the car is sitting there doing nothing, and it has instant torque. Well not the latter in the case of the Prius, but it's pretty impressive on all of the full electric cars I've driven.
In theory, a full electric car should be loads more reliable than ICE, as there are a fraction of the moving parts. The problem with ICEs now is that they have become EXTREMELY complicated in order to meet ever increasing emissions and efficiency standards. This means that not only do they have more parts that can fail, it's new technologies that haven't been proven. Just ask GM and Honda with their cylinder deactivation systems. Lots of issues with those.
Now that my electric spiel is over, there really aren't any electric 7 seaters out there. Being an independent, I don't really see a lot of new cars, as most new cars go to the dealer for repairs and maintenance. So my experience is based on somewhat used cars.
You can't go wrong with a Toyota Sienna if you don't mind driving a minivan. Stay away from Caravan, or anything Chrysler for that matter. Tahoe/Suburban vehicles have really stepped it up in interior quality and what not, but they've had transmission issues lately, as well as their displacement on demand systems.
Mandalf_the_Ghey ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:57:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you sir!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:03:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome
weggaan_weggaat ¡ 169 points ¡ Posted at 17:14:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Of course not! You should also kick the spare...
greatreddity ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 23:46:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
also Best LPT: Do not buy any motor vehicle, ever. Motor vehicles are the single largest non-income earning, immediate loss asset you will buy in your entire lifetime. They are the No.1 cause of financial difficulties in peoples' lives, and they are a shackle to your ruin. Instead, buy a bicycle, and invest the money saved in Tesla. You will make bazillions.
weggaan_weggaat ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:55:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And to think, some people even buy cars that are brand new.
NevyTheChemist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:02:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah but I don't want to carry all my grocery bags in the freaking bus.
Hooderman ¡ 252 points ¡ Posted at 17:49:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Donât forget to slap the hood
theotherHalfWookie ¡ 154 points ¡ Posted at 17:54:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And talk about how much shit you can fit in it.
Just_Lurking2 ¡ 143 points ¡ Posted at 18:48:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
this baby can fit so many problems
Seacabbage ¡ 69 points ¡ Posted at 19:29:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
cries in BMW
luke10050 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 22:34:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was watching samcrac on YouTube, he bought a range rover with a V8 and "mechanical issues"
At first i thought not too bad, should be interesting it's probably got a rover V8...
Then he lifted the bonnet and I seen a BMW M62...
I knew nothing but pain was headed his way after that
mud_tug ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 01:04:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wait till you see the guts of an Audi.
luke10050 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:13:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
My mother owns two...
A 2012 or so A5 2.0T and a 2012 Q7 with a 3.0 TDI.
The 3.0 tdi has a pretty crazy setup to drive the high pressure fuel pump. one of the cams extends out of the head and has a toothed cog mounted to it, has a belt similar to a timing belt extend to the fuel pump to drive it
Edit: I just own two old cars, the newest of which is 15 years old.
explorer_76 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:23:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is Audi the one that replaced the serpentine belt with a serpentine chain that requires the engine to come out? No thanks!
explorer_76 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:21:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Cries in 5.4l 3v Triton
luki59 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:02:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"So how many bodies, I mean people you think will fit in there?" "I don't know Mr. Shoesmith, why do you ask?"
[deleted] ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:05:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:57:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 02:01:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:19:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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UltrahipThings ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm walking here!!
Neon_gelion ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Then you take out the oil stick and taste test
Hooderman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:43:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes
hoxxxxx ¡ 33 points ¡ Posted at 19:28:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
NO tire kickers -- i know what i got.
Pbtflakes ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 22:58:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No tire kickers, no lowballers, no scammers. I know what I've got. No text, call number and ask for Mike.
bigboilerdawg ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 01:16:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
2003 Civic, 187k miles, $5000 firm.
NarcedEnt ¡ 20 points ¡ Posted at 17:11:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Gotta kick the fifth too
electromagnetiK ¡ 19 points ¡ Posted at 19:15:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Don't forget to check the headlight fluid
Mattches77 ¡ 17 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
headlightBlinker fluid, gotta get the terminology rightelectromagnetiK ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Right right blinker fluid. My bad
impeachnowexplainltr ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
They are two different fluids and they are NOT interchangeable. And you should be checking both levels regularly.
TheDewbAbides ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:43:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also check the alternator oil and canooter valve.
Master-Potato ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:10:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also make sure the muffler bearings are not froze up
Icypalmtree ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:36:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And the VTEC oil. Gotta change that every 6 months of 1,000,000 revs. Whichever comes second.
LankyPuffins ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:38:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Make sure the elbow grease is topped up too.
shit_typhoon ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:33:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I can't, I'm too tyred
NarcedEnt ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:44:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
rofl -_-
McFuckhead ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:39:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://youtu.be/VunjAXgLXng
Assholecasserole2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:09:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Psh
Speedracer98 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!
LlamaRoyalty ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
âYup... thatâs a car alrightâ
awkward_seawaffle ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My husband and I were getting a new car and debating trading in our old one or selling it. We ended up trading it in (even though we COULDA asked thousands more) simply because my husband didnât want to deal with people âtest drivingâ it, and kicking the tires đ
It was a Mini Clubman, so there would have been many âtest drivesâ đ
evilanimator1138 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:05:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Only so long as you light the fires.
Speedracer98 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!
IAmTheGodDamnDoctor ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes
Speedracer98 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!
Speedracer98 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!
skygazer5 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 01:01:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks. I'll just hire a trusted mechanic.
Speedracer98 ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!
Speedracer98 ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!!
Speedracer98 ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
wOULD YA LOOK AT THAT! LOOK AT IT!!
lizzard_daddy ¡ 272 points ¡ Posted at 17:54:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Will you be my dad?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 408 points ¡ Posted at 18:55:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How good are you at mowing the lawn?
dr_cereal ¡ 67 points ¡ Posted at 00:08:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I mow lawns for a living!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 120 points ¡ Posted at 00:13:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Welcome aboard, Junior!
AdoobII ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 08:04:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you scream at your kid for not holding the flashlight correctly?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 08:16:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not anymore. Now I give him a headlamp and put a neck brace on him so I can get a steady stream of light.
mlhradio ¡ 124 points ¡ Posted at 20:48:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This man knows how to dad.
LpwjqIETvewop3Wykzad ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 04:28:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
rEdDiT MeMe
blackndwolf ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 23:43:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh pick me! I used to cut grass for a living!
_Thrilhouse_ ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:50:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
He was a ver nice boy, he used to cut my grass
kshucker ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:22:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I hate mowing the lawn so see ya later dad!
BNMKA ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:06:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
r/internetparents
kmartburrito ¡ 1159 points ¡ Posted at 17:51:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Really surprised to not see this mentioned yet - OP this is great information and thank you for sharing. Some people, however, either won't have the time or the intestinal fortitude to check all of these things. For people falling into that camp, you can find a well reviewed and reputable master mechanic to perform a pre-purchase inspection. I had one done for my last purchase, and he checked the same things you mentioned, also found on one car some paint work I missed and the dealership didn't mention. He provided a PDF of everything when he was done also. He checked for sediment in the oil to help understand how well it has been maintained, and after doing this, I will do it every time I get a used car from here on out. Here's an example of one in the Denver area, where I'm from - http://sos-inspections.com/. He saved me some major money. Worth every penny to me.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 423 points ¡ Posted at 18:47:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes this should always be the first option if it's possible.
Alternative-Aspect ¡ 94 points ¡ Posted at 19:38:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you're selling a car what's the best way have an inspection done without the risk of the vehicle being stolen?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 250 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Take it to a trusted mechanic and have them inspect it before you sell it. Present the report to any prospective buyers. My reports are all digital with pictures and videos. It is a link that is accessible by anyone , so if you're posting it online, you can just insert the link in the ad.
superbutters ¡ 96 points ¡ Posted at 22:53:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You've helped a lot of people with this post. And probably pissed a lot of other people off.
Thank you. May the rest of your days be tolerable, at least.
hell2pay ¡ 26 points ¡ Posted at 00:38:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WellEndowedDragon ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 23:23:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
THANK YOU. That is so much better than having to decipher chickenscratch on a piece of paper to determine whether your multi-thousand dollar investment is a sound one or not.
akryl9296 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:11:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That is nice, but I heard that people sometimes make a deal with the mechanic to not show the problems with that particular car. Always best to go to your own trusted mechanic and do the inspection anyway.
UnpopularCrayon ¡ 39 points ¡ Posted at 21:11:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Take a photo of their drivers license first. Then if they steal it, file a police report, collect your insurance, and no need to fool with selling it!
killerz298 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:52:53 on January 3, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Homeboy never heard of fake id :-)
UnpopularCrayon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:59:16 on January 3, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
I think you missed the point. It doesn't matter if it's fake. The point is to be able to put it on the police report and collect the insurance. And the car is off your hands.
ffffound ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Go with them?
ihaveseenwood ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:34:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Or send wife.
dobby1999 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 08:38:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ah, I see. The wife and car gone in one deal. I like the way you think.
Yourneighbortheb ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 20:31:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Drive your car to the mechanic of their choice. Simple.
GeorgeYDesign ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:43:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
He dropped one point the other 27 minutes
benjeeee ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:12:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You could just accompany the potential buyer to the shop where it's being inspected. Yeah, it's a pain in the ass and an inconvenience. However, odds are if they've test driven your vehicle and are willing to spend $150 on an inspection, they'll likely want to buy the car as long as the mechanic doesn't discover any major mechanical issues. And if they decide to not buy the car, you've got a free inspection report you can show to the next potential buyer. Win win!
nwoh ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
... Why would it be at risk of being stolen?
-IoI- ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:12:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've never even considered that an option.
I'm going to go borrow my brother's 86 and just.. not return.
Reelix ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 00:42:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There's a large difference between your brother, and a stranger living 20 miles away you've never met before, or will again.
tee2green ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 23:54:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What if the car is Certified Pre-Owned? Should I still hire my own mechanic to do an inspection?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 00:25:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In theory, no. However, I have gotten some CPO cars in my shop that I found issues with and I was like "how did they miss this glaring problem?". Most dealerships are all about high volume numbers. Unfortunately that impacts thoroughness.
glassy_mango23 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 01:42:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Buddy of mine got a certified Chevy pickup from a Chevy dealer. Got it home, noticed the reverse lights were out.. took it back to the dealer for a checkup, they wanted to charge him a diagnostic fee, 4 hours after he signed the papers. I highly recommend doing everything posted here, yourself or a professional mechanic.
mollymurph ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:29:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Far too many dealers end up with a semi competent helper doing a high speed run through of the manufacturer's CPO checklist. A $10/HR employee spending half an hour to check off 109 "points" and a hope that they didn't miss things like brake pads or tires that need to be replaced.
OTOH, some manufacturers have impressive CPO programs. My kid bought a GTI a few years back. It was seven months old with very low miles. He paid a bit over half of the window sticker and got nearly six years and 54K miles of bumper to bumper warranty, thanks to VW's CPO program.
MagnusTheGreat ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same with houses. I cheaped out on checking pipes in the house (plumber would have added around 40% cost to the check-up and I was already a bit skeptical about the guy checking, but e was a good guy in the end) and while I haven't had any problems yet, it would be nice to know if the pipes are good or not.
The guy saved me about 18k. Worth every penny and more.
So basically, getting professionals for any big purchase is a good thing, as they know what they're doing and we, the on-professionals, probably don't.
celtickid3112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:49:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Counterpoint: my home inspector was so bad Mr. Magoo would've been better. He missed painfully obvious issues.
What you said is 100% correct. Just makes sure who you hire is up to the job.
My problem then was I had never owned a home and had no way to judge the quality of his work or assessment. He had a great reputation and came highly recommended.
DylB9669 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:42:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Except I donât have a trustworthy mechanic atm đ
nashedz ¡ 53 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How much did this cost you roughly?
kmartburrito ¡ 95 points ¡ Posted at 19:21:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
180 US dollars. Saved me a lot on one vehicle, confirmed I had a great deal on another. I've done it twice now, and absolutely will again in the future.
sN- ¡ 24 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If i check every car im willing to buy and have to spend 180 each time and the car is shit..
dasehh ¡ 62 points ¡ Posted at 19:44:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Welp then itâs saved you a lot more than $180 :p
poco ¡ 25 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Then you saved yourself more than $180 in repairs...
TheSillyLion ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Then thatâs a deal because you just saved yourself thousands in repairs on a broken piece of shit.
clistallen ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
That's when you check out some of the things OP has mentioned. Then save that expense until you think you want to make an offer. Regard the master mechanic as the final blessing if you will.
Edit: I have yet to see anyone mention checking recall lists and verifying completed repairs before you buy the vehicle.
Harrgran ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:11:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Recall lists can be gray territory. Many times a recall for one make/model is not for EVERY one of those make/models, but ones between a range of VINs (build dates), or specific vehicles made at a specific plant. Dealers provide open recall checks for free....within reason (a 20yr old car wont likely be under recall).
Saft888 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:14:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can search online for recalls as well.
awwhitford ¡ 26 points ¡ Posted at 19:45:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Then you do it yourself; as detailed in this post.
Urik88 ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Obviously you'd take it for an inspection if at first you had a good idea that the car at least looks good
ScubaNinja ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:14:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You would ideally do some sort of checking yourself to eliminate total shit cars and when you find one YOU think is quality and good to buy, take it to a mechanic. If youâre buying a 15k used car 180 is totally worth not getting stuck with a car that needs 5k in additional repairs.
MagnusTheGreat ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you checked 10 cars for 180 and each was about 5k and you were recommended to not take it, you would be in a better shape than 6 months down the line when the engine gives up or something.
Good things are worth waiting for.
377Iron ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Then you just saved yourself quite a bit of money and headaches. As far as testing too many cars, I would recommend just narrowing down what you are looking for to limit the drain on your wallet.
FlyingOTB ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Stop looking at shit cars?
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:06:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah, that's why it has to be a combination of your common sense weeding out the bad vehicles, and when you find one you think is the right one, then do the inspection. If it's good, then you spent 180 for peace of mind. If it turns out there's lots you missed, then you may have saved thousands. To me it's worth it and is a no-brainer, but to each their own!
Saft888 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:55:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thatâs why you do some initial checks yourself to weed out the really bad ones. $180 is way over priced for a pre purchase inspection. It should be less the $100 easily.
sbk1021 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:04:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Personally I wouldn't do this unless I really REALLY wanted the car and knew exactly what I was looking for. You aren't going to blow $180 on every used car you look at or test drive, that is just silly and blowing $$....you should be doing this to the top 2 narrowed down choices you want (IMO)
Yourneighbortheb ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
180 is much less than most car repairs. How old are you?
colorful__dystopia ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It sounds like you got two inspections done. Was it 180 for both of those inspections, or 180 each?
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It was 180 for each of the two inspections I had done, one for each vehicle, or 360 total if you add up both vehicles I had inspected.
-NotEnoughMinerals ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 20:40:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
180 sounds like a rip off.
Most places do inspections for 99-120.
Kumbackkid ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:31:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thatâs why you use your common sense as far as it will go and when you find a car you think is right just buy an inspection.
HDePriest ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:31:39 on December 31, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Last car I bought was listed at $8500. After a $100 inspection, I was able to use the stuff he found to talk the seller down to $6700. Honestly I expected about that amount of needed repairs on a car of its age but proof of how much the mechanic bill will be is a great leverage in negotiating.
jonmlm ¡ 30 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How does this actually happen? The dealership let's the mechanic check out the car for an hour on the lot? Or they actually let you take it to the mechanic?
UnpopularCrayon ¡ 34 points ¡ Posted at 21:16:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One time I bought a used car from a dealership. They let me take the car home for a 3-day extended test drive. I got it inspected during that 3 day trip.
But just ask the dealer what options they will allow: bring mechanic to them, borrow car for a few hours and bring it back, or send it to a mechanic if your choice for you. It is not an unusual request.
kmartburrito ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 21:01:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The mechanic comes to the lot with all he needs to do the inspection on the lot, and also takes it for a test drive with whomever you're working with saleman-wise, just like you were taking a test drive. He was able to look underneath, listen for weird sounds, look at paint, engine oil, filters, battery, tires, etc. All the important items.
kvkoda67 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is what Iâm wondering too. Unless they are just talking about from private sellers.
binarycow ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:56:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I paid a 100$ refundable deposit and took the car home for an overnight test drive. Went straight from the dealership to the mechanic.
TrineonX ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:10:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Most good dealerships will allow either.
If they refuse, or insist on using their mechanic, you donât want that car. Or probably any car from that dealer
glassy_mango23 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:46:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
âOr they actually let you take it to the mechanic?â
Donât tell them? What are they going to do about it? Not sell you a car?? You donât want it anyways if thatâs the case.
Kim_Jong_OON ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:20:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Take the car for a test drive, let the lot know you wanna get it checked out by your guy. They'll let you take it there after getting your license and insurance info.
nonny313815 ¡ 84 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah, I got about a third of the way through reading this before I realized that I had no idea what any of it meant and came to the conclusion that I will forever just hire a mechanic...
Railered ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Even if you go through the whole list it would still be idiotic to not pay 100 dollars for a PPI. Unless you can put the car on a lift yourself and have been a mechanic for years, itâs absolutely pointless to do all this yourself.
BionicPotatox ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 23:49:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I dont think it is, if you can catch an issue while doing these steps before having a PPI done, you'll save the money you would have spent to have a mechanic do the same and more to the car. Not many people can just afford multiple PPIs when shopping around.
manjajsdlasdj ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 03:34:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It would be idiotic to drop $100 on a PPI by a trained mechanic when a cursory 5-minute inspection proves the car's fucked
Notwhoiwas42 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:22:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah I don't think the list was intended to replace an actual mechanics inspection. To me it seems more like a list of common things that anyone can see that are deal breakers. Sort of a quick first pass to avoid paying for an inspection on a car with easily visible serious problems.
leamsi4ever ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:37:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Me too, i guess people who know nothing about cars would also not understand this information which kind of defeats the purpose
boondockspank ¡ 35 points ¡ Posted at 18:54:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Upvoted for visibility. It can be hard to put a vehicle through all these tests, especially of you're dealing with someone who knows they're trying to sell a polished turd, so this option makes a lot of sense.
Ben_lurking ¡ 43 points ¡ Posted at 19:11:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If any seller (private or dealer) gives you a hard time about doing any of the things in the OP, or will not let you get an inspection, walk away. They are scared you will find what they are trying to hide.
jaubuchon ¡ 23 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Or they're tired of tire kickers expecting way too much from a $1000 car.
Grim99CV ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:15:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are people paying 180 bucks for a PPI on a thousand dollar car?
jaubuchon ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 21:36:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
No but I take it you've never sold a cheap car. The most over expecting, entitled humans on the planet are those buying sub 2k cars
1965wasalongtimeago ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 23:12:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well, you have to remember what type of person is likely to be looking for a car for that price - it's probably someone who can't afford to be sinking more into repairs later, so they're jumpy and looking to make completely sure they're getting something they can trust.
jaubuchon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:16:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know the type, half of them never show up, quarter show up, kick the tires, and made you work with them for 7 hours making you cart the car around to three different places to check it out only for them to offer you 200$, the remaining quarter is 1/8th they show up, look at it, and don't like it, and 1/8th look it over and buy it
Pats2014 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:17:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is sadly so true. They wonât even own a vehicle but are so quick to point out every single nick and scratch on a $1600 car
jaubuchon ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 03:19:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"yeah so the internet said 4 tires that dont match means this is a bad car" No it means that it had 2 flats and the best deal I could get on tires for a 275k mile camry happened to not match. You're 100% right
Grim99CV ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 21:38:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I actually have for $500, and sold it to the first guy that came along. It had to be towed away.
nekkototoro ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Just booked a prepurchase inspection for a used car I looked at yesterday. OP is amazing for making this post but I do not feel confident enough checking a lot of the things on the list myself. Fingers crossed that the car is okay đ¤
Timmocore ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:47:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I used to work in auto finance for used dealerships. It's shocking the amount of folks who scream "I was sold a lemon!" when their transmission dies within 2 months on a 10 year old car with 120k miles. I always ask, "did you get your own inspection before you bought it?". Answer was always no. Buyer didn't know they could do that, and the dealer didn't tell them. My response was always "sorry, the dealer is not obligated to tell you to get an independent pre-purchase inspection.".
kmartburrito ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's so worth it, for the peace of mind. The $ I saved with the first one I wouldn't have known that they didn't change the oil, and missed the paint work that was done indicating some sort of accident. Easily saved 3k plus I bet, walked away from that one. You could still have something happen after the fact, but spending 180 bucks (or whatever else someone would charge) is SUCH a small price to pay in the long run of total cost of ownership of the vehicle.
another79Jeff ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:15:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is this something you can do with used car dealerships? I don't think they would let you take it off the lot for that would they.
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:00:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes! Absolutely. I did this both at a used car lot as well as a major dealership that also sold used cars. I indicated to them that I was going to do a pre-purchase inspection, which they quickly agreed to with no fuss (if they are iffy about this, they may be hiding something and you should leave, but if they've got nothing to hide, they should be fine with it) and then I arranged for them to set the car aside for my guy to come look at it. He came, did all his engine-cold tests, his test drive, inspection of other items, etc, and then emailed me his report. I didn't even have to be there, which was awesome. There wasn't any issue taking it off the lot, I am assuming the rep I was working with rode with him just like I did during the test drive.
atomchoco ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:45:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Like yeah true all these info seems nice but really? For someone who knows nothing about cars? This actually discourages me from buying used ones like ever unless I'm looking to really get into cars. I'd rather think I can never buy one if I'd have to know all of that
Why yes I'd certainly just pay to have someone do it for me plus they're 1000% more expert
himradderall2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:30:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How much does a pre purchase inspection like this typically cost?
kmartburrito ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:08:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For the place I had it done, it was 180 US dollars. This was with a master mechanic though, so I may have paid more for his reputation/license, which to me was well worth it. He has absolutely no problem calling a car a POS, which I absolutely loved and felt he was trustworthy. I have used him twice, once he saved me from a bad purchase, and once he affirmed I had a great deal.
tplee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes but make sure the mechanic actually knows what heâs talking about first. I sold my car once and let the person take it to his mechanic, where the mechanic proceeded to tell him not to buy it cause it was clear my car was in some sort of flood. I was the only owner and the car was never in a flood. The guy clearly didnât know what he was talking about. I then took it to a certified dealer and had them take a look at it and it was in 100% perfect condition. Nothing wrong with it but the first mechanic cost me the sale.
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's why you take it to a reputable person who is licensed as a master mechanic. I totally agree with you though, there are some shady mechanics out there.
SpaceForceChief ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:27:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
We recently bought a car from Carvana. They have a 7 day grace period after you drive the car off the lot where you can exchange or just flat out return it (you can exchange up to 3 times). It provided an excellent opportunity for us to get the pre purchase inspection done.
WanduhNotWandull ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:12:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When my brother and I were looking for our first cars, this was the only hard requirement my parents had (every car gets taken to a mechanic for a run through). We must have taken 15 cars to our mechanic before settling on our purchases. In a few cases, he saved us from buying literal death traps, that my brother and I would have had no clue otherwise.
Not_Adam__ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:52:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Okay. No way this isn't a really good ad, right? Am I this jaded? Damn if it's a genuine customer reaction than good God this guy us worth it.
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:10:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I understand you're jaded, after all we're all just random Internet people, but this is honestly my experience. In the end, I am just happy I didn't get burned, and will forever recommend the concept of a pre-purchase inspection to anyone that will listen. :)
nibiyabi ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:48:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Would a mechanic actually do everything listed in OP's post?
sethra007 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:57:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this!
mud_tug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:24:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Also if you look too carefully at the car and do all the checks mentioned above that would send a clear message to the seller that you are very interested. That would make price negotiation much harder for you.
Try to look detached and disinterested or short of time. When checking the car with the seller only focus on the negatives. No need to give him ammo for free.
When checking in a dealership do not focus on one particular car. Look at several and try to seem undecided whether you should buy one at all.
Yougottabekidney ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:28:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Could you give me a rough idea of what this would cost? 50? 100? More?
kmartburrito ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:27:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For the guy I got to help me, it was $180 US Dollars
domastallion ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:19:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's what I did when I was shopping around for a Subaru. I was 16 and very new to car buying in general and was saved twice by my dad. Did what you said and took it to a pre-inspection and one car had a failed brake system. The other one, which I was dead set on for buying, had a blown head gasket. That would set me back an extra $2500 because it's a Subaru... I then learned about the great head gasket problems on pre 2012ish Subarus.
BrewingBitchcakes ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:38:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
While I agree that you should always inspect, inspections are expensive. If you have basic tools listed here you can hopefully weed out the terrible cars on your own, saving the coat of inspecting cars that have easy to spot, terrible problems.
kmartburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:35:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Totally agree with you, some people just can't do it, and either have to forego any inspection or pay someone to do it. Lots of people don't even think about getting an inspection done, and then in retrospect that $200 ish inspection wasn't near as expensive as a $3k transmission or whatever the issue is. I'm a believer in them and just look at it as a necessary cost when purchasing a new vehicle. When I was younger and it was just me (and when I was driving 3k vehicles) it wasn't as important as it is to me now that I've got two kids who are expensive and I don't want to be shouldered with an unreliable vehicle on top of it. It does seem costly on the face of it, but as is any thing in life, it's all in how you look at it and the value you feel you get for it. But if it saves you once, it's hard not to see the value in it for next time. As you said however, if you have the ability to do it yourself, then by all means save the money.
BrewingBitchcakes ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:13:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To clarify I agree that it's worth inspecting every car you are going to buy. What I am saying is that if you can exclude a car on your own, you just saved the price of one inspection of a car you would have passed on. Then when you find a car that passes all your simple tests(like those listed here) then spend the money on your inspection.
FlyPenFly ¡ 121 points ¡ Posted at 18:12:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post, hereâs my number one tip:
Check the forum of the car you want to buy: There is a car forum for everything! Theyâll often have stickies on what is a common problem for that model. Example is the Audi 2.0 has oil burning and timing chain stretch and tensioner failures. There will be specific instructions on how to check for these.
Crixus3D ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 00:27:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a great tip for purchasing anything of value really. New or 2nd hand.
WingedDefeat ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 01:05:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I found out the hard way that if the car's forums are dead it will sooner rather than later be too expensive to maintain.
I'm looking at you, Lexus.
435i ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 06:13:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lexus may be the most reliable brand, but when stuff breaks it is hell to repair. Not only are there basically no aftermarket DIY support, basic repairs are absolutely hell. I tried to replace the water pump on an ES350 and the only way requires lifting the engine out of the car. Replacing the tensioner mostly likely also requires lifting the engine unless you want to go through hell unmounting a lot of other parts. This is why I keep going back to BMW every time - on top of numerous DIY guides and videos, I can find full dumps of the BMW TIS online so I have all the tools the dealer uses to fix cars including all coding tools and repair manuals.
WingedDefeat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:06:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The community of BMW enthusiasts is huge, and I wish I had been able to take advantage of it while I still had the i325. The car ran great but I was constantly plagued by electrical gremlins, and those little bastards are way out of my comfort zone. I was almost relieved when I crashed it. After dealing with that, plus the Lexus, plus a '96 Range Rover, I'm done with luxury vehicles. It took way too many expensive and frustrating Saturdays for me to figure that out, but I got the message eventually.
Phaedrug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:04:29 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Isnât an ES just a Camry with leather seats?
JoyfulDeath ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:04:27 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Ha... until you drive both then youâd definitely notice the difference!
You can put me in unmarked and unidentified car and I can still tell the difference.
I can even tell which company make it!
Phaedrug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:26:45 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
So whatâs the difference? Suspension setup?
JoyfulDeath ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:57:18 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
The way the gas and brake pedals respond, how the steering feel, how the engine vibrates, etc...
For example, Lexus gas is insane! A light tap on pedal and your head will be thrown back. BMW steering is very solid and have almost no play in it at all, a light tap on a Audi brake will make you think you got into a accident, etc...
M4rzzombie ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:24:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Best tip here honestly. Other people that work on these cars will know what is good and bad about them
Prince_Polaris ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:56:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is there a forum with a section for 1988 chevy vans? ;~;
Phaedrug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:23 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I guarantee it, those are popular in certain communities. It might come down to figuring out engine or transmission manufacturer codes and searching those since they were also used in trucks and other vehicles.
Prince_Polaris ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:09:42 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Woah :0
Well, I just need help with stuff like lubing the speedometer aand so on...
slingbladde ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:18:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is so true. I went on a forum for the model i was looking at and noted all the common problems for that vehicle. Bought the car really cheap and bought another one as a parts car. Every problem in the forum that was mentioned happened but was prepared with the parts from the parts car.
BossMaverick ¡ 98 points ¡ Posted at 04:47:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a âprotect yourselfâ tip: If you are buying a used car from a dealer or private seller, ask to see the title. If they wonât do that, ask to see a copy of the title with the previous owner info blacked out. It should be a red flag if they refuse or blackened out more than just the registered ownerâs information.
Why? First to make sure they actually have the title. When I was young and dumb, I was once burned by a licensed motorcycle dealer not having the title and lying about it. Although rare, some sellers donât have their ducks in a row when selling a car and will sell the car before all of their documentation is completed. This can turn out really bad for you if the seller never gets you the title or registers it to you. In my case, the dealer failed to tell me it was a consignment sale, failed to give the owner the money from the sale, which meant the owner never gave the title to the dealer. The dealer then suddenly closed his business. It lead to a large lawsuit with many involved parties.
Secondly, seeing the title will potentially allow you to see how many other dealers the car passed through before yours. In most states, dealers are supposed to record a running list of dealer transfers. Seeing a dealer-to-dealer transfer isnât an automatic red flag. Dealers swap cars ALL THE TIME when a customer wants a certain car. Dealers also get inventory from auction ALL THE TIME (more on this later). What is a red flag is an incomplete log (such as not seeing your dealer logged on titleâs running list) or several dealer-to-dealer transfers. Several transfers is a sign that it is a lemon that keeps getting passed around.
Third, check the title to make sure the title isnât âbrandedâ, such as being a salvage car, flood car, scrap car, etc. Youâll also see if there is an outstanding lien. Run away and donât look back if itâs a branded title unless the seller is honest about it and you know what youâre getting into. Buying a branded titled car is NOT a risk that an average person should venture into. Best case scenario? The car was totaled from simple cosmetic damage such as hail damage. Average case scenario? The car was in a crash in which the damage exceeded what the car was worth. Worst case scenario? The crashed car was fixed just barely enough to look good but still has a bent frame, has missing airbags, has unknown amounts of hidden mechanical damage, has severe electrical issues, etc.
Bonus Info: As a dirty secret of the industry, it isnât just low cost and questionable cars that get sent to auctions in modern times. Lease returns? The dealers have zero ownership of lease returns. Itâs the leasing company that does. Most lease returns are sent to auction. Low mileage trade-inâs? Many get sent to auction by dealers that canât easily sell the vehicle (example being a Jeep dealer that is flooded with passenger car trade-ins and wouldnât be able to sell yet another one). A dealer canât sell a normally good vehicle after a couple months for whatever dumb reason? Itâs sent to auction. Brand new cars when a dealership goes out of business or when they just consolidates? Theyâre sent to auction.
I think many people would be shocked that almost all dealerships heavily supplement their used car inventory from auctions, or buy from wholesalers that get them at auctions. Just assume the used car youâre looking at came from an auction unless the dealer came prove otherwise. Hint: Dealers hate saying it was an auction vehicle because of the stigma and will instead simply say it was a trade-in. Donât believe it unless they prove it. They donât consider it a lie because it was likely a trade-in at another dealer, but your dealer likely got it at auction.
Final tip: NEVER, EVER BUY FROM A âBUY HERE, PAY HEREâ DEALER. Itâs a 99.9% chance they are a scum dealership catering to people with no credit or people that are completely clueless to interest rates and such. For those with no credit, youâre better off saving what you can and then posting a wanted ad on Craigslist for a cheap car.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 53 points ¡ Posted at 05:03:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have received way too much gold and stuff on this post and I'm going to share it with you. This is a really good post. I completely forgot to talk about titles. And yes, Buy Here Pay Here places should be burned to the ground. They don't even have to worry about buying inventory since they replenish their inventory by repossessing cars from people they knew we're going to miss payments on the ridiculous loans.
I would like to append my post with your post so it gets more visibility if that is okay with you. I will give you credit of course.
BossMaverick ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 13:10:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. Thank you for the gold.
Yes, you can share the info. The more people that know, the better it is.
August2_8x2 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:57:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saw a few repo-recyclers working repo. The most notorious scam was âno payments for 90 daysâ. Midnight, day 90 and the repo order was posted. Where I did repo, there was a 90 day collection period before a company could issue a repo. So these people would set up payments, forget to make a payment at day 90, and get their car repoâd on ~day 91. The seller wasnât obligated to send people payment warnings, etc. b/c due to the contract, the buyer wasnât late on any payments yet. Itâs a shitty loophole and Iâm not sure itâll ever get fixed.
BossMaverick ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 03:19:18 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thereâs a lot of illegal repoâs happening by Buy Here, Pay Here dealers. It doesnât matter whatâs in the contract if there is a state law that trumps it. Buy Here, Pay Here dealers are truly the lowest low of car dealers. They legitimize themselves as being the heroâs that will give loans to people that couldnât get loans from anyone else. Reality is theyâre praying on people with bad credit.
Iâll link a YouTube video from a used car dealer that discusses doing a hypothetical repo before Christmas. Iâve watched several of his videos and I donât believe he is a Buy Here, Pay Here dealer, but it wouldnât surprise me if he does it unofficially on the side. His channel is very enlightening as to how used car dealers operate. To his credit, some of his videos are good at showing the real headaches that car dealers go through and shows the realities of dealer auto auctions. Hereâs the video: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GuDJ_xc0Ndo
[deleted] ¡ 84 points ¡ Posted at 18:17:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
[removed]
chinkostu ¡ 20 points ¡ Posted at 00:30:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That and the magnet truck can't help on plastic body panels. You def won't get anything to stick to the bootlid of my car!
Fr-Jack-Hackett ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 01:22:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you can check the bolts holding the panels in place, especially in the engine bay. On European cars the bolts will be marked with paint as will the panel. If the paint doesnât match up, the panel has been replaced.
samoyedsensei ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:30:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How expensive is minor paint work supposed to be? I have a couple scratches on my front bumper I have been neglecting because Iâm worried itâll rack up a $800 bill for something I donât care too much about.
flyguydip ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:43:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Agreed. I've had 3 people hit my car in the parking lot at work now. All 3 were superficial hits, one that cracked the plastic, most likely due to the cold weather. That's the only work I've ever had on mine.
jmcstar ¡ 387 points ¡ Posted at 17:26:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Came for the used car advice, stayed for the WAA WAA WAA
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 48 points ¡ Posted at 18:56:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You should also get under the hood, with the engine running, and listen for any fltumpfltlumpftlump sounds of belts wearing out. Turn it off and visually inspect the belts too. On older cars, it's imperative to check the cambelt has been replaced regularly.
googgles ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Handy tip for cambelts is every 100,000kms is what I was also told growing up
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You should check the manufacturer's service interval, my car's currently sat around 70k (don't actually know, the bulb behind the odometer blew the other day) and isn't due for another 20k
TehShadowInTehWarp ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:59:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And for those who were not aware: typically mid-size and larger trucks have a chain instead of a belt.
Gadbwah ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That is what she said
cbelt3 ¡ 648 points ¡ Posted at 17:12:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
FWIW you should always plan on looking under the car. A flashlight (not your cell phone) and a piece of cardboard to lie on while you do this is critical.
Look for oil stains. Look and smell for gasoline or coolant stains. Look to see if the various shields and covers are there. Check the condition of the exhaust system. And check to see if the catalytic Converter is there !
Finally you can (for free) use the âmy Carfaxâ app and scan the VIN and get a quick maintenance report that way. Caution ... not all shops post data to CarFax.
And totally Internet search forums on the make and model and year for issues. Look at technical service bulletins. Have your research done ahead of time and use that in negotiating a price.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 216 points ¡ Posted at 17:23:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
All good tips as well. Thanks for adding them.
vlepun ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hereâs another for those people disinclined to lying on a cold floor:
Take that selfie stick out of the box, and use it to comfortably take videos of otherwise hard to reach places such as the insides of wheel cases and underneath the car.
Obviously itâs best practice to put the car on a bridge and elevate it, but thatâs not always possible. Making a video on your phone and checking that (preferably with someone who knows their stuff) is a good alternative.
Prince_Polaris ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:55:28 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
.......I need a selfie stick
[deleted] ¡ 90 points ¡ Posted at 17:26:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fleet vehicles and rental cars frequently won't have Carfax reports because they don't file insurance claims and they do their own in house repairs.
cbelt3 ¡ 92 points ¡ Posted at 17:32:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very true. I will also note that rental cars are 100% going to be abused. I would avoid them.
salty_dogey ¡ 64 points ¡ Posted at 18:01:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I work at a rental car place and can confirm this. We had a Tahoe come in with almost 20k miles that had never had the oil changed in it. They may look nice and be new, but the chances of them being abused is pretty high as you said.
Nice_Dude ¡ 37 points ¡ Posted at 18:26:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A family member just bought a previous rental 2018 Kia Optima with 48,000 miles on it...
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 114 points ¡ Posted at 18:32:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you know what the difference between a rental car and a 4 X4 is? There are certain places you don't take a 4 x 4
shadow247 ¡ 22 points ¡ Posted at 19:26:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrUD4mSvZms
grantrules ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 19:36:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Knew what this was before I clicked!
IAmAGenusAMA ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:46:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had to watch this without sound. Was it actually a rental car?
shadow247 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 21:09:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
yes!
KratzALot ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:56:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man that was an adventure. Really surprised that Hyundai was in able to go anywhere on it's own after that.
CircaSurvivor55 ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 18:58:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm in a waitig room right now reading this, but had to turn of my "this person is providing advice" thought process after I read it because I kept going back and rereading the previous threads to see why that would be the case, and then I started laughing out loud.
I've even heard that one a dozen times too. haha
Touche!
perdigaoperdeuapena ¡ 11 points ¡ Posted at 21:08:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a 2015 Ford Focus SW from a rental company, took it on a test drive and to a mechanic for a pre-inspection and I'm very happy with it - and I hope it continues without any problems! The car was less than 36,000 km when I bought it in 2017 and I think I made a good deal. But I understand and I am aware of the risks and I agree with everything you have said here! :-(
LightningZ71 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:54:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I see these stories all the time, and yet, I've been buying Enterprise Car Sales vehicles for over a decade now, and aside from a snafu with a spare key, have had excellent results with them. Now, I will state, I do my own mechanical inspection similar to what's detailed here, and don't buy anything over 50k miles from them. I also request that they provide in house maintenance records for the vehicle each time, and have refused to purchase two vehicles that I was interested in because their records were incomplete or had a gap.
What have I purchased? Two Corollas, three Dodge minivans for our family, two more for family, an HHR for a friend, and an F-150 for another family member. All made it to their next major maintenance interval with no issues AND passed a full inspection at that point.
Conversely, I have purchased new, an F-150 that had several issues, including a transmission failure at four thousand miles passed the warranty expiration, a new Toyota Sienna minivan that had an oil line rupture while sitting in traffic (later became a recall), had a battery wiring harness corrode apart while on a family vacation, which I replaced with a genetic one, and then Toyota, even when provided with the original, deteriorating harness, refused to replace the temporary one with the correct one because I had "modified the vehicle" by installing a temporary harness to get it down from the mountains and 100 miles to the NEAREST dealership. It also apparently had an oiling problem at one end of the front bank of cylinders that we didn't know about until it destroyed the rings on the two cylinders at one end of the engine, which also eventually became a recall. I also purchased a new Dodge caravan (the early 2000s short one) that went through two different transmissions before the original warranty was up, and by 100 k miles, had every window motor fail, the A/c compressor fail, numerous wiring failures, and had to have a recall on the power steering pump.
I'll gladly buy an ex rental car THAT I CAN INSPECT, any day of the week over a new one that I have NO IDEA what was built wrong with it. Buy the time they hit rental lots, you have a good idea what's junk and what's decent, and if it was going to break, it's probably already broken at least once.
Of course, your mileage may vary...
SIGRemedy ¡ 25 points ¡ Posted at 18:28:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Our office has fleet vehicles, and I do a lot of travel so have rentals often. It actually stunned me how badly people abuse the cars... Hard acceleration is the biggest issue. Iâll see coworkers get up to 6k rpm pretty much every time, and when I get in rentals thereâs often valve chatter or the engine responds oddly to acceleration (most cars build an âacceleration map/profileâ based on typical usage). Tells me that I donât drive it as hard as the engine expects...
Like I own a turbocharged sports car, nothing a Hyundai Elantra is going to put out is going to get you there any faster. I canât even do that with a car MADE to accelerate faster. Youâre not going to save more than 30 seconds... calm down.
JellyfishHues ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:27:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You SAY that, but hilariously people keep bringing Elantras to race in the autocross club Iâm a part of and they do surprisingly well. Iâm pretty sure the majority are rentals. I suppose theyâre not disclosing that activity to the rental company, lmao
But yeah, honestly anybody impatient and zooming around on the road with traffic to try to get to a destination faster is saving the most minuscule amount of time (often while endangering others) whether you have a Chiron or a Kei car. I always wonder how many of these people are zooming home just to watch TV. If the road is mostly clear, sure, youâll save a good chunk of time, but like you said, otherwise youâre not saving more than 30 seconds.
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:30:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man, I bet they do decently at auto cross, they actually do hug the road pretty well... LOL, thatâs... interesting to think about.
I had another gear head tell me a joke about the clear road versus cluttered traffic thing: You know why the car fantasy is a long, open road and no cops? Because youâll never see either of those things, so mind your manners and use your turn signal.
siler7 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:29:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
*tailgates you* HEY! TELEPORT THROUGH ALL THOSE CARS IN FRONT OF YOU! I'M IMPORTANT!
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It could just be an Opel engine
Mine's in great condition, it makes a lovely ticking noise at idle, and has absolutely no power until you hit 3k, at which point it shoots up to 5k and you need to shift
snaky69 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 14:29:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So long as everythingâs properly lubricated and cooled, thereâs nothing wrong with hitting 6k rpm
SPARKLears ¡ 56 points ¡ Posted at 18:29:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
My ex and I rented an SUV from a local branch of a well-known rental company for a 2-week road trip driving from Chicago to western South Dakota and back. We picked up the rental the morning we are planning on leaving, and my ex did a quick check of everything when we stopped back at home to pick up our luggage. He noticed the dash said that the oil life was down to 20%. Like wtf, we are about to drive over 1,000 miles and we don't want this SUV to give us problems in the middle of the trip.
We called the place we rented it from, and the lady says, "oh, just go buy some oil and top it off and save the receipt and we will reimburse you when you return the rental." WTF?! We were both just like NO. Thankfully, I work at a power equipment shop, so we stop up at my work, talk to my co-worker, he tells us to run down the street and buy oil and a filter and he was nice enough to do the oil change on the spot for us so we could finally get on the road. I felt like he was such a lifesaver for us that day bc we could actually drive this thing now without worrying about it running out of oil or whatever. I definitely gave my coworker a good tip that day!
To top it off, when we finally get home and go to return the rental the next day (a Sunday with shortened hours mind you), we are driving up and down the road where we got the rental from, but cannot find the building or sign. I thought I was going crazy. Finally, I am convinced I see the building, but it is empty and the sign is gone. WTF?! We both pull in, I get it and walk up to the door, and see a sign that explains that they moved and to see them at their new location at whatever address. We barely make it to the new location before they close to drop off the rental. They never told us when we rented the car that they were moving and to drop it off at a new location when we returned. They never reimbursed us for the oil or the filter. Horrible rental experience for us!
Oh, and fun fact... My lifesaver coworker that changed the oil for my ex and I, he is now my current boyfriend. He changes my oil on my car for me now. And he really is a lifesaver- he is also a firefighter/paramedic.
Edit: my ex and I were broken up and both single when my coworker and I started dating. I started getting nasty messages about having an affair with my coworker. Did not happen and that is not why my ex and I broke up. Stop assuming shit.
perfectfademusic ¡ 19 points ¡ Posted at 19:00:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I work at a rental place. We track oil life on an internal system and not vehicles oil/maintenance warnings because those are based on miles traveled and can be reset by our customers. Odds are the vehicle has a miles counter set to 5000 miles while we wait until 6 to 7k miles depending on the vehicle.
Also we submit carfax records because it helps us sell our vehicles. Rental cars are abused for sure, but you know exactly what youâre buying and have access to all maintenance receipts and accident history from a trusted vender with a reputation to maintain.
kaine8123 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 19:44:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I guess it should then be mentioned it depends on the rental company and if they resell their vehicles later. But as I know of only 3 large rental agencies in the U.S. Enterprise, Hertz and Avis that sell their cars themselves we can take this as the minority case
perdigaoperdeuapena ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:19:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Replying from Portugal, bought mine from Hertz. No issues until now, very happy with my used car!
perfectfademusic ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
These 3 rental cars hold a large majority of the U.S. market share for fleet vehicles. Government and other fleet companies I canât speak for. Also many dealerships hold small loaner fleets but I assume they maintain those well but I have no idea.
FblthpLives ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:13:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you know if this is typical for the industry, or relatively unique?
perfectfademusic ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No idea. The rental company I work for provides a carfax with every sale, but we generally only sell our nicest vehicles on our lots. The rest get dumped on dealership. Buying a former fleet vehicle isnât a bad idea but if you canât get full records then you should run away because the dealer or the fleet company is screwing you. The fleet company absolutely knows EVERYTHING that happened to that vehicle since 0 miles.
perdigaoperdeuapena ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:18:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yep, I just posted a reply above until I read this - I bought from a rental, full documentation, all clear and honest! I still made a test drive and took the car to a mechanic prior to the purchase. Very happy with it, hope to keep like this in the future.
turbodog99 ¡ 35 points ¡ Posted at 18:43:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
+1 for the attitude of the rental place, but worth noting that most modern cars, even those with 10k change intervals, still have TONS of life left in the oil at change time.
Source: have sent in multiple high mileage oil samples for lab analysis. Most 10k sample have life left for 15k or more.
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:54:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I did not know this, thank you! We were trying to be proactive and didn't know what to do, and the rental company's response wasn't very reassuring!
Foundanant ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 19:54:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fyi you probably didn't need to change the oil. The car would have been fine. Well, for purposes anyways. Bad for engine life but I doubt it would have stopped working on your trip.
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:57:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you! We were just scared to drive it all the way and didn't want to break down in the middle of nowhere and wait hours for a tow or whatever.
hellolemonade ¡ 29 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oil change + boyfriend change. Sounds like it all works out!
Lab_Golom ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 21:19:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do not be surprised when you are traded in for a newer model, sparkles.
SPARKLears ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:36:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Clever lol! My coworker had nothing to do with my ex and I splitting up tho, so I really didn't trade my ex in for a newer model. My new one is a couple years older anyways, the irony lol!
Lab_Golom ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:37:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was just trying to make a joke...You explained it like you did that.
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:39:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh I know, I appreciate the humor and take no offense!
cogentat ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My ex and I rented a car and thankfully the hot girl that works with her helped us get it ready for the trip or we might have been stuck together for years. I ended up dumping my ex and trading her in. For this hotter model. Did I mention the new girl is a fashion model!? Upgrade!!! I thank the lord everyday that she helped us out before we took this trip.
unixygirl ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
this was good lmao
Lab_Golom ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:20:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeppers.
SPARKLears ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:56:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lol! Funny hearing you phrase it like this! Nice job lol!
CCNightcore ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Rental bad. Oil change good
DavidWangsa93 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:33:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Interesting experience you got here....
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:49:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I guess you can say that lol!
DavidWangsa93 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:51:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And you got something too from this..unfortunate experience..which is great..đ¤
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:00:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What is life but one big learning experience right lol!
DavidWangsa93 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
True that..đť
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:01:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lol! đť Cheers and happy new year to ya!
DavidWangsa93 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:13:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
đťđť of course ma'am!
ohyeahbonertime ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:59:23 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man what a close call! I canât imagine what would had happened if you had run out of oil before getting to the next oil change. Truly an emotional roller coaster of a story. Did you swap out the tire air before it went stale too?
SPARKLears ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 09:30:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why of course! I most definitely did not want to get stranded with stale tire air! We made sure to top off the blinker fluid too đ
AdmiralAdama99 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:52:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The 20% oil life warning isn't really a big deal. Your car isn't going to work any worse if you end your trip at 10%, 0%, or -10%. It's just a mileage counter to tell you when you should do your next oil change.
How often to change your oil, you ask? Check the owner's manual for that car. My Toyota is every 7500 miles. So if I were at 20%, that means I have 1500 miles left before the suggested oil change time.
Changing the oil on a rental car is certainly not something you should ever need to do yourself. The rental place will take care of that for you.
SPARKLears ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:46:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My RDX is every 7500 too with full synthetic, but I was worried about it being only 3k since it was a domestic SUV and I had no idea when it was actually done last, and if it was done with full synthetic or standard. I just didn't want to take the chance of the engine seizing or anything major happening while we were on the road trip. We were just trying to be proactive rather than reactive. I never wanted to have to change the oil on a rental car ever, but the lady that rented us the car was pretty clueless and careless when we called. I wish that the rental company would've had all that done (and reset the oil life indicator while they were at it) but when my coworker checked the oil before he changed it for us, he said it was pretty dirty and low. That's why we had him change it, more so for peace of mind while we were driving it over 1500 miles. It was a horrible rental experience to say the least. But oh well, I guess it could have always have been worse! It did get us all the way from Chicago to South Dakota, over to Wyoming, down to Nebraska, back to South Dakota and then back home to Chicago so it did complete it's main function. The clean oil possibly helped? Lol!
Cakellene ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And it still worked? I went 15k miles before piston decided to go sideways instead of up and down.
samoyedsensei ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 19:19:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâve heard the oppositeâthat cars from rental fleets are usually meticulously maintained, and buying used from a rental car agency is a good bet. Usually comes with warranty too.
Iâm not sure what to think after your comment lol
Gornarok ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well sure they will be well maintained I mean on average I guess.
But its likely they were abused by the drivers...
I think its better to find private car with good maintenance record.
samoyedsensei ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 22:15:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What do you mean by abused by the drivers? This seems to be a blanket term thrown around this thread that I donât see any clarification for. If the cars are being maintained well then Iâm not seeing what the drivers could be doing outside the scope of ordinary wear and tear through driving it.
Karmaflaj ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:33:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
âNothing handles better than a rented car. You can go faster, turn corners sharper, and put the transmission into reverse while going forward at a higher rate of speed in a rented car than in any other kind. You can also park without looking, and can use the trunk as an ice chest. Another thing about a rented car is that it's an all-terrain vehicle. Mud, snow, water, woods â you can take a rented car anywhere. True, you can't always get it back â but that's not your problem, is it?â
Lead_Penguin ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:01:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Revving it to max while the engine is cold, hitting bumps at speeds higher than intended, that sort of thing. I got a free upgrade to an Alfa Giulia on my last rental and I certainly wouldn't have wanted to purchase it after the "spirited" driving I did in it đ
__loves2spooge__ ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 02:10:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No shit, nobody is saying to buy a sports car from Hertz. That is a terrible idea. Obviously every driver is going to drive the shit out of it.
The idea is to buy something like a Camry from a rental company. It's powerful enough that people aren't going to floor it to make it go fast enough, it's not sporty enough to invite abuse. When you buy a rental from Hertz, they have their own network of dealers and they only sell the ones that are in good condition. The fucked cars go off for auction and end up on an used car lot somewhere. And they come with extended warranties usually.
This is not true of every mom and pop rental company, but the big boys do regular maintenance and while it might not smell like a new car you can be reasonably sure it isn't completely fucked. Unlike some rando private seller who may never have changed the oil.
asund_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:58:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My coworkers took a rental minivan on the Bonneville salt flats to see what it could do.
I donât know how durable suspensions are, but I would imagine at least one previous driver didnât bother slowing down at all for speed bumps, for instance.
The company I worked for would also rent vehicles for long periods of time and avoided returning vehicles when requested, extending rentals for even longer. We definitely blew through oil changes and other maintenance periods.
perhaps_pirate ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 18:23:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What is a fleet vehicle? And how can you tell if a car being sold was once a rental car?
[deleted] ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A fleet vehicle would be one that was owned by a company that was big enough to have and maintain a fleet of vehicles for use by their employees. It might be a car they could drive to and from work or one that stays at the workplace and people sign out the keys as they need them.
A car dealership might identify it as a fleet vehicle to explain why there is no Carfax history with it. They might also try to use it as a selling point because fleet mechanics will generally do the required maintenance.
LOLBaltSS ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:28:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fleet vehicles are basically owned by a business, organization, or government agency. Some would have a relatively easy life (say a detective's car), others will have high engine hours with hard miles (patrol cars that idle a lot and then have to intercept cars or race to emergencies).
th_underGod ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 18:43:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
There's one particular website that is essentially a database that records the most common issues for particular models of particular years. Great tool for seeing what possible areas you'll want to double check or be more thorough on.
edit: the specific website I had in mind was carcomplaints.com, but there seems to be plenty of other complaint aggregation sites.
It's not an official site and while I wouldn't trust consumer reports, if a single specific year of a model has 50+ transmission related complaints, I'd be pretty thorough checking the transmission of a used model that I would be looking at.
Additionally, looking at a model over the years can give you a general sense of trends of issues they have. I'm not saying don't check anything else except for the complaints, just saying that a couple quick google searches can alert you to the most common problem areas and you should pay especially close attention there.
tian2992 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:59:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeh, which one eh?
Wary_beary ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sounds very useful! Would you care to share with us the name of this website?
manwatchingfire ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:14:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What's the site?
cbelt3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:27:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
NHTSA.gov . Edmunds.com used to be good with this, not sure now.
2000inchbiceps ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:58:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Goddamn my car fucking sucks lmao
CyberneticFennec ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Never leave a down payment unless you already slept on it and are 100% commited to taking the car
Like keys in hand, insurance cards ready, driving off the lot right now commited.
Speaking from experience, if you back out the dealer can legally keep your money. When you leave a down payment you usually sign a contract, one of clauses states that they can keep the money to offset the damages if you back out.
They will claim every penny you left was used for "damages" or "pre-purchase repairs" and there's not a thing you can do about it.
SlightJoke ¡ 19 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Whatâs wrong with a cell in phone. A light is a light.
Moose_in_a_Swanndri ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 19:36:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Phone lights aren't normally focused, so it can cast more shadows and make it harder to see around things or to look inside structure at pipelines and stuff. You can make it work with a phone, but if you have a real torch available it's 100 times better
Amalo ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It shines light in a general area rather than more concentrated. So higher points when youâre under the car make it more difficult to see clearly.
Ride_A_Cowboy ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:31:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not always bright enough. You want to see everything.
chilejon ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 19:22:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm guessing they were talking about the light from the screen.
Vermillionbird ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A good flashlight can see further into an engine bay / suspension assembly, and can reveal expensive problems like weeping CV boots or bad engine mounts. And I'd rather drop a 15 dollar flashlight into an engine bay than my iphone
SlightJoke ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 22:31:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sometimes that's all we got.
Lab_Golom ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:23:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
saying a light is a light is not saying anything at all. May as well say "it is what it is"...of course, it is true, and meaningless at the same time.
I guess an idiot is an idiot.
SlightJoke ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 22:27:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow gottem. The guy basically said "use a flashlight but not the flashlight that is on your cell phone". Which is exactly what you're trying to call out here.
Lab_Golom ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 22:51:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
no, that is NOT what he said.
He said " A light is a light " but clearly not all lights are equal.
It is literally saying that all lights are equal, when they are clearly not.
Got it now?
SlightJoke ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 22:55:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think you're confused. "The guy" I was referencing was cbelt. And that is what he said.
Lab_Golom ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:04:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think you're confused.
because what you said makes no sense.
SlightJoke ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:12:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ok thanks for your time come again. Don't forget to not use your phone flashlight when you need to see something.
Karmaflaj ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 23:43:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ah, see, you have discovered the weird cult of flashlight aficionados. Like coffee, guns, knives and bikes, itâs a group comprising 98% men who become obsessed by the difference between Streamlights and surefire and mag lights.
To claim a cell phone light is in the same category is like claiming a 17 second robusta pour creates an espresso! Get with the game.
some_dumb_mutha ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:06:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
They both use the same type of LED, but a flashlight will place it at the focus of a parabolic reflector, where in a cellphone it's just mounted in a tiny indentation. So the phone puts out a hemisphere of light where the flashlight focuses all of that light into a small, much brighter beam.
If you want to get a "big picture" view of the engine compartment in the dark, then a cell phone light would be OK, because it would evenly illuminate a large area. If you want to peer down into a gap between a bunch of parts, you'll want the flashlight so you can aim the beam where you need it.
Plus it sucks if your $1000 cellphone drops out of your cold hand into an engine compartment and gets stuck somewhere. Or falls straight through to the pavement.
Zarochi ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 18:02:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I learned from a local shop that they're actually charged to upload to Carfax, so they don't do it. Also, this won't show you stuff the owner has done such as oil changes.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I upload our data to Carfax. They don't charge me anything. Weird
CRTsdidnothingwrong ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:14:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And this is why if you're in a newer higher value car and you want to maintain its resale value you should get oil changes at shops that do report.
I wouldn't reject a car for not having reported service history, and I drive my cars into the ground so I'm happy to do my own oil changes, but when I bought my car it definitely added to its value that I could see every oil change on the history report.
mikeyrs1109 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:36:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Carfax does not charge shops to report to them. They charge dealers to subscribe for unlimited car history reports. They charge dealers for certain used vehicle ads, and they charge consumers for history reports. They accept data from shops with the right kind of software that are willing to provide the data. There are some legitimate reasons why a shop might choose to not share data, but generally speaking if a shop won't share service data with carfax I start seeing red flags.
Perhaps there is a software or hardware carfax offer's a shop to allow them to upload, that your shop doesn't have. In 2019-20 I don't know how a shop can operate without what carfax would require.
the_giz ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wouldn't you know if the catalytic converter wasn't there when you test drive it? I got mine stolen once and the car sounded like a Harley when it started.
TrineonX ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:22:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you take it out and replace the missing section with exhaust pipe, then it would sound normal to a buyer.
Thieves donât care about trying to sell the rest of the car after they sell the catalytic converters, shitty dealers or previous owners will patch it.
-1KingKRool- ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:41:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sounds like the whole muffler was stolen, not just the cat.
Illtakethespaghetti ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:26:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also make sure to look for rust while under there.
newjoechills ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:56:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
THIS!
Came here to post this. If there's anything other than light rust (like, less than an inch every here-or-there) don't bother.
A car that's lived 10-15 years in a non-snowy climate shouldn't have any rust (aside from the above).
SpecialK47150 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What's wrong with a cellphone? My cellphone light is better than many cheapo flashlights.
cbelt3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:26:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Youâll get grease on it.
morgan_greywolf ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A couple of other real old school checks:
With the car cold, pull the oil fill cap. If there is milky brown substance on the inside of the cap, the car either has a blown head gasket or a crack in the intake manifold. Walk away. Itâs not worth your time.
After running the car, wait for the engine and radiator to cool and then pull the radiator cap. If there are bubbles in the coolant, the car has a blown head gasket. Walk away.
Pull the oil dipstick. If it smells like gasoline or seems especially thin, the engine has bad rings. Walk away.
Always, always, always get under the car. Except for water (condensation from the AC), there are NO NORMAL LEAKS.
Source: grew up in Detroit driving horribly decrepit heaps. Learned to spot mechanically sound cars.
FuryBlazer13103 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:30:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can usually tell if the catalytic converter is missing just by running the car. If it sounds just like any other car, the cat is there. If the car is super loud, check to see if the catalytic converter is missing.
Mythdefied ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:33:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I stan Lincoln Town Cars. tryna fit under one of those isn't happening without a car lift or removing a few ribs
2000inchbiceps ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:52:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What if the car is really low?
calmKinison ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:03:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I always look under & missed a biggie helping my sister look at an SUV. Underside was in surprising good condition for 200K for a midwest winter lifespan. I looked all over underneath but a few angles were tricky & like I said it was pretty good.
Later I find out it looked pretty good because the dealer recently replaced the front subframe due to excessive rusting. They did not replace the rear subframe & it was near failure in the spots I couldn't see easily. It was slightly outside the free replacement window though they had inspected it less than 12 months earlier. The amount of rust through corrosion did not happen in just the 12 months after. They declined to fix under defect or that they knew the problem existed when they inspected it.
Cost over $1300 at a trustworthy shop.
I did find good records under that myCarfax app.
Edit: words
kiwifruit14 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 12:50:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The internet search saved me from a car that I thought was maybe pulling to the left. Dealer told me that was impossible, no way, itâs all aligned. Did a little googling and a forum full of people were complaining that the make and model I just drove keeps pulling to the left no matter what they try.
pittpharmer ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:34:40 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Living in Pennsylvania, salt can do some real damage to the undercarriage too
DudeYouHaveNoQuran ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 15:53:58 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You are out of your mind
[deleted] ¡ 64 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 40 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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glass_lizard ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:00:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks!
Facefoool ¡ 60 points ¡ Posted at 17:28:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mannnnn I just bought a car before Christmas and it had a bad radiator, alternator and some codes popped up later. I will be keeping all of this in mind next time I buy a car
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Dam. Those can be reasonably cheap to fix though. Depending how bad the radiator is you can get extra life out of them.
If your alternator is going tho, buy jumper cables and maybe a battery charger NOW and keep them in your car. Keeping a spare battery isn't a bad idea too. I drove a car with a broken alternator for six months by charging the battery overnight every couple of days, and asking strangers to jump start it occasionally. Of course, no radio, and you can't use your lights or wipers for long periods of time. Not recommended.
neongecko12 ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 19:18:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Alternators can also be rebuilt for significantly cheaper than a new one. Obviously it won't work for all types of faults, but it's an option not many people realise is out there.
1847953620 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
truth, personally, I'd take it to an alternator shop. Sometimes you have to press stuff out and you can end up warping the housing if you don't do it right. Plus, a good shop can do a re-wind that's better than OEM if needed, not to mention more thorough testing before and after than what the average Joe does.
Defsplinter ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So you spend money on an extra battery, but not just buy an alternator? Why not just replace it?
Facefoool ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:55:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So I actually bought the same type of car as the one that broke before it so I could swap parts if I needed to and it turned out that I did. So I have an alternator in it now and a new radiator but it might have transmission problems now or be leaking transmission fluid lol I'm going to try to look at it more when I'm off work and it's not raining
jpacheco914 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:55:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The local alternator shop here will rebuild one for around $30 with a 30 day warranty. Never had an issue with a rebuilt! Definitely look around in your area.
GoneInSixtyFrames ¡ 28 points ¡ Posted at 18:04:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
About step 1. Smart phones have apps that can link to bluetooth ODB scanners, this can provide real time feedback from the ECU. Some ECUs require a consistent 60MPH drive for 15 minutes or more for major codes to appear.
The dealer could clear the codes and you may not catch it on short test drive tips.
Edit: You can clear the codes yourself with a scanner and drive the car, also driving the car when it's warmed up is different too.
Bluetooth ODB2 - 10-20 dollars.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That explains why the last guy who sold me a car wouldn't let me test drive it for more than a couple miles. Welp.
GoneInSixtyFrames ¡ 11 points ¡ Posted at 18:28:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had an evap code pop on my used car. I replaced the gas cap, cleared the codes, drove or an hour, clear the code again and after the second time it never came back.
lostlilkat ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:25:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Was it a Corolla? So far EVERY time it is time to take it for inspection this code magically reappears. New cap and a bottle of sea foam (because why not?) and usually clear by the time I get to the inspection station.
Hellhammercurls ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Did you still buy the car? That would be an instant red flag for me.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I did. I very desperately needed a car, and I was young and had never purchased one before. I brought my stepmom with me for help but she didn't tell me she was suspicious until months later.
hammerflask ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Go to the monitors view and it will tell you miles/run time since the codes were last cleared
APater6076 ¡ 153 points ¡ Posted at 17:22:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
When buying a used, older car, buy on condition and service history, not mileage. A 5 year old car with 20k miles sounds great until you realise it means loads of short journeys where the engine, lubricants, oil and coolant has never got up to temperature properly. Many of these fluids act as lubricants or get thinner when fully up to temperature allowing them to penetrate small nooks and crannies better, keeping them working properly. A 5 year old car with 100k miles might seem like something to avoid like a dose of Chlamydia but chances are if it wasnât a taxi itâs done mostly freeway/motorway miles where everything is warm and working well, itâs not particularly stressful on components like continuous stop/start town driving and as long as everything has been serviced and replaced on time may not be the bad decision. A correctly maintained car and engine should easily be capable of 100k miles or more.
Check for any outstanding recalls (for my Ford Focus itâs Ford ETIS and I can check it online for example) and Iâm sure other manufacturers have their own online checkers. These recalls can be minor or major and save thousands in repairs.
the_belgian_racer ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is very important! A friend of mine had to travel through Europe all year round and put wel over 100k km a year on the car but it was wel maintained, had a history of all the oil and air filter changes. It once had flat tire and they replaced the whole wheel because it had some slight curb damage.
Than you have my uncle and aunt who bought almost the same exact car but only used it to drive the kids to school and to get groceries. They would let the clutch slip, floor the car while the engine is still cold and didn't care for speed bumps, potholes and sidewalks.
After 2 years you had a well maintained 240k km car which is hard to sell because of the milage and a 20k km car with hidden costs but with low milage so people would be more interested
[deleted] ¡ 48 points ¡ Posted at 18:55:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 22:38:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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TrineonX ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 01:27:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What you are describing is exactly the symptoms of a car that was flooded, auctioned off by an insurance company and rebuilt.
Rebuilt titles in general are a huge red flag. I drive a lot of old shitty cars, but I would never buy a rebuild
WorriedSelf ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:18:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It sounds like the Buick was a flood car, they have never ending electrical problems.
engineerlife4me ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:36:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's funny cause my fam has the exact opposite issue. Fam has a few different impalas and they don't seem to last to well for us. My brother in law is even a mechanic and he bought a slightly used one and the tranny started to slip I believe. But my mother had a 2005 or 2004 Buick century from new that I think before it died got over 300k on it. No engine or transmission replacements. Honestly no big work done besides changing the oil.
nebraskajone ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:26:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think the point was low miles is not a good thing
Kim_Jong_OON ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:27:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've seen multiple impalas from around that era have a rack and pinion seperate from the frame. . . careful on your luck with those. One of the only cars I wont own as a mechanic.
tx05 ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 21:31:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
100k miles shouldn't scare anyone anymore, that's a bit outdated in my opinion. Every car my husband and i have ever owned has made it over 200k. We live in a rural area and realllllyyy put miles on our vehicles. We have had 2 Chevy trucks, both 3/4 ton gas, one was traded in at about 200k, the one I drive now has over 200k. We have a 3/4 ton '97 diesel Ford farm truck that has nearly 400k...that engine I dont think will ever die and there's a reason people love them though. But we have also had an Isuzu Rodeo that had about 225k when we sold it, a Ford 150 straight 6 with over 250k when we sold it, my sons '08 F150 is getting real close to 200k and has had zero issues. Our "youngest" car belongs to my daughter, '13 Ford Mustang v6, that "only " has 115k on it. All haven't caused us any trouble at all.
But the most amazing of all is my husband's work car...a 2008 Kia Optima we bought new that just rolled over 640k miles (not a typo). Yes, original engine.
Maybe I'm not the best example because our vehicles service history sucks...they don't really have one. Honestly, we are hard on all our vehicles and don't baby them. My husband did used to be a mechanic, but that doesn't mean anything because he rarely has time (obviously with the amount of miles he drives) to do tune ups or mess with any of them. And he won't pay someone else to change oil so they are lucky to get oil changes....sometimes 10k miles goes by before they do.
But point is, people act like a car has the plague once it has 100k, and they are scared to drive their cars. But like you said, sometimes not driving them does more harm than good. They were designed to be driven and more often than not you are helping them stay in good shape by doing so.
LOLBaltSS ¡ 11 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I had a buddy of mine pick a F-150 with 350K on the clock over a slightly older one with half the miles because the latter was a fleet vehicle that was in far better condition overall. The 4.6L was in both, but the suspension and transmission felt totally shit in the one with less miles. Transmission shook and the steering pulled to the right. The one with far more miles drives smooth and the engine doesn't sound like it's worn at all.
Kim_Jong_OON ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:29:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fleet vehicles are great. Companies want them to work and sometimes subject to DOT inspections. If the latter, any and everything will be 100% fixed, no questions asked.
GET_OUT_OF_MY_HEAD ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You say that as if I could ever afford to buy a car with less than 100K on the odometer to begin with...
APater6076 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:47:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So then research your car, check for service intervals etc. Many owners sell up before a major, ÂŁâŹ$1k service due that includes major work. Check itâs regularly serviced on schedule. Youâre unlikely to see main dealer history but Iâm always wary of cars that have been âhome servicedâ with no receipts. Often major services require a specialist tool to complete or they skimp on plugs that are difficult to access. Some Jeeps have a plug right under the bulkhead at the back of the engine. Thus plug will often be skipped on plug changes during servicing.
PM_ME_YOUR_SCI-FI ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:06:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So glad that electric is becoming popular and people wonât have to worry about this shit anymore.
APater6076 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are you kidding? No one checks the oil on their Tesla! Itâs a recipe for disaster!
nebraskajone ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:30:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well you can have a whole new set of problems regenerative brakes lithium batteries generators etc
ruffsnap ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:17:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It depends on the used car. More often than not from what Iâve seen itâs better to get the used car with lower mileage. Somewhere in the 30-50k range is ideal if itâs been well-maintained obviously.
APater6076 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:18:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Indeed. Might still have some warranty if its Korean, but look at the condition and service history too.
AdmiralAdama99 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:58:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A history of city driving / stop and go driving shouldn't be a factor in whether or not to buy a car. The extra stress is negligible, imo.
By far the most important factor when selecting a used car is whether or not the owners have kept up with the maintenance. That is why the inspection that the OP posted is good, it will reveal any neglect and needed maintenance.
Nickthegreek118 ¡ 43 points ¡ Posted at 17:48:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey OP, can you recommend a good OBD for the average Joe? A brand or model?
SIGRemedy ¡ 41 points ¡ Posted at 18:41:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not OP, but about any should do it. Even the knock-off brands that are like $20 would give you the right data. They all communicate with a protocol the engine requires, so the cheapness means slower update speed (1-2 seconds versus more than once per second) and lesser components on the device. Youâll get the same information out of it.
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 19:00:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I forget that cars have computers in them nowadays. This post is a good reminder. I'll get one of those reader thingys before I go buy my next truck.
abeardedblacksmith ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:24:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I keep kicking myself for not getting one when the Sears store near me was closing. I haven't even had an occasion to use one, but I still think about it every once in a while
asund_ ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:08:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Grab a super cheap one online. You get an app for your phone and connect to the adaptor over bluetooth or wifi. Seriously, the cheap ones are fine. The only thing to watch out for is not buying an older bluetooth model for use with an iPhone.
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:02:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yep yep. For 96-2002 theyâre âneatâ but not nearly as intensive. For anything 2007+, you can nearly hear the engine think with one. Newer cars are more computer than machine, it seems like.
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 19:15:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My newest car was a 2003. I just realized there's people reading this thread who were born in 2003.
SIGRemedy ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah... I still get those vertigo moments when I realize that 20 years ago was both 1980 in my head and 2000 in real life...
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The matrix came out 21 years ago, while we were listening to Limp Biskit.
alexandre9099 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:43:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
FTFY
mmm_burrito ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:54:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just be aware that the codes are not always going to point out exactly what's wrong. My clockspring is broken in my Nissan Murano, but it's throwing a code for a "bad cruise control switch".
SIGRemedy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:26:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is very good advice too. The most common example of this is the âO2 sensorâ code. That DOES NOT mean your O2 sensor is bad, it means the O2 sensorâs readings are out of whack. It could be an exhaust leak, fuel in the exhaust, a loose sensor, a loose wire, a rock dug a hole out of the exhaust right before/after the sensor, the catalytic converter is jacked up.... the list goes on.
GET_OUT_OF_MY_HEAD ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Get a $15 Bluetooth OBD-II adapter from Amazon and install the Torque app on your phone. It's cheaper than a scanner and will do everything you need and more.
For example, you can dash mount your phone or a tablet, and turn it into a space for extra gauges for your car; like an MPG or Distance to Empty gauge, transmission temp, intake manifold pressure/temp, 0-60 times, average speed, percentage of city/highway driving, real-time horsepower/torque estimates, and then some. It's great for a statistics geek like me.
admiralspark ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:44:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This should be higher up. Torque is THE correctsolution for this, as they also have the modified code packs where many manufacturers deviate from the OBD2 standard.
ba123blitz ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:53:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Will it display cel codes as well ?
GET_OUT_OF_MY_HEAD ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:10:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well yes of course, as well as tell you if you'll pass emissions or not like what OP was talking about
techcrewkevin ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:39:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This ^ I have the torque app and (had until I lost it) a bluetooth OBD-II scanner.
Why spend a fortune when you have a phone that will do most of what you'll need anyway.
Lost_in_La_Mancha ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 18:29:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This app developer has very nice tips on how to choose a good adapter:
https://www.carscanner.info/choosing-obdii-adapter/
snaky69 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 14:31:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Upvoted for this app. Well made and simple to use.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 23 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Unfortunately, I cannot. All of my scanners are high-end since I have to use them professionally. I will say this: I have an expensive Snap-On scanner. It works pretty well. I also have a cheaper Autel brand scanner. There are many times that I go to use the Snap-On scanner and it does not give me access to the data or functions that I want. I will then grab the Autel and it has yet to fail me. The menu system on the Autel is a little bit more convoluted and slower to boot up so I usually grab the snap on 1st.
Autel does make some reasonably priced scanners so I would assume that they should be good as well.
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:07:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you have any manufacturer-specific hardware?
I've got a Vauxhall (Opel) and you need an Tech2 or Op-Com in order to do anything with it
EarthlyStranger ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:55:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I find snap on scanners canât code all the new diesel injectors. I know there had been a recent update but we find The Bosch ESI scanner to be awesome and the g scan to come a very close second.
We also have the denso and Delphi scanners but Bosch and g scan gets used heaps.
He_dont_know_shit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a bluetooth model I bought from Amazon. Pretty cheap, only around 20 to 30 English pounds. It plugs in to the car port and the app in your phone reads the codes and will also tell you what the code is. It doesn't pick up everything, as I've seen it not read any codes at all but there were codes present on a high end Snap On model at a professional garage, but it does all the major stuff. I use an App called Torque as the code reader. It also has track day modes and a dashcam with real time updates to speed and location. It's pretty cool.
dardack ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:16:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I can. Bluetooth.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32845605597.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.688e4c4dS2xiVN
This has the actual PIC18F25K80 chip inside. This is important to certain tools. Like CVT fluid temp for Nissan cars, the app requires the better chip. Works great with Torque and any other app.
Trust me you want a true version 1.5 vs the newer 2.0 or 2.1 and this has the better chip. Took me awhile to find a cheap but legit one.
Grandville93 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:40:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks!
duhimincognito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:34:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can buy a Bluetooth ELM scanner for under $20 on eBay or Amazon, the download the free Torque app to your phone. If you are a more advanced user, Torque Pro is $5 and can read freeze frame and PID data.
BABarista ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:37:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
AliExpress elm327 should be $5
Belazriel ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:31:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not a guarantee, but also check your local library as loaning scanners has become one of the more common extras libraries are adding.
Ego-Te-Provoco_2 ¡ 48 points ¡ Posted at 16:29:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for those helpful tips !
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 25 points ¡ Posted at 18:33:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome!
[deleted] ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 20:54:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 16 points ¡ Posted at 20:55:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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FastWalkingShortGuy ¡ 96 points ¡ Posted at 16:49:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I simplify this LPT by bringing my mechanic with me when I buy a used car.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 97 points ¡ Posted at 17:12:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's a good alternative as well. And if they're willing to go with you, that's a good mechanic.
ChuckinTheCarma ¡ 18 points ¡ Posted at 18:29:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not that Iâd hold you to it, but what would be a reasonable rate to you for something like that?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 39 points ¡ Posted at 18:43:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Basically it would be time spent Times their hourly rate. I would probably spend 30 minutes checking the car out which is about all you can do without having access to your specialized tools and a lift. Add to that travel time to get there and back. If I were doing it at my shop, it usually takes 1.5 to 2 hours to do a thorough check and document everything
kants_rickshaw ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 19:08:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Even at the rate out here of 120/hr for a mechanic, it's worth saving thousands of dollars in repairs later.
PM_ME_YOUR_SCI-FI ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:07:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
But thatâs for a single car. You could easily look at tens of cars in your search.
severejacket ¡ -1 points ¡ Posted at 21:46:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And you could lose thousands on one car. Whatâs your point.
[deleted] ¡ -1 points ¡ Posted at 00:07:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
Thedarb ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 00:29:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah, doesnât make sense to do it for every car in a search. Do both I reckon. Regardless of how much you learn, without doing it as a full time profession youâre never going to have skills equal to a good mechanic. Use these type of amateur checks to whittle your list from 10 down to 1-2 then get a mechanic to have a proper look over them starting with your number 1 choice and if itâs good take it.
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:13:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I look at cars myself, and if I decide to buy it I tell the seller "Ok, I'm interested. I'm going to take it to my mechanic to check it out. Anything I should know?".
And take it to the mechanic so they don't charge much. Having a good mechanic is super cool. Ask friends and family for recommendations, or better yet, get one as a friend and pay in beer for him to come look at the car with you.
Urik88 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Are most people cool with giving you their car to take it to a mechanic? Because otherwise for the owner it'd be a drag having to wait with you for the inspection, specially considering that good priced cars in good conditions usually get sold fast
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:07:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same as a test drive, just 20min instead of 10. Obviously you give them your passport or something as collateral along with a document basically saying "I agree to purchase this vehicle for $X, with option to cancel if vehicle is returned to ADDRESS by X-o'clock Xdate". Basically.
If you're selling, it weeds out people who aren't really interested, so you only get serious people taking for test-drives/to their mechanic
pursian ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:15:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I once took a car to a well known mechanic for a pre purchase inspection. They charged about $100. I was a little disappointed though, because they mainly just checked the visual condition of things like oh your tires are good, brake pads 50%, shocks arenât leaking, etc. I was hoping theyâd use their scan tools and knowledge to check for things I wouldnât know about but they didnât necessarily do that.
This post you wrote pretty much covers everything to check for. No need to take it to a mechanic if you can do all these yourself
severejacket ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:47:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
$100 is one hour. If that. He lifted it. Took the tires off. Looked at the shocks. If you want them to scan. Thatâs going to be more. How vocal were you about what you wanted. And how cheap were you with saying what you were willing to spend?
pursian ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 21:49:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I mean for what they did, I didnât need to take it to a mechanic at all. I couldâve done everything they did by myself in under 10 minutes. I told them that I wanted them to inspect everything and make sure itâs all good.
Phaedrug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:38:58 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I spent $80 at an independent shop when I had one down on a craigslist car I bought this summer.
Missanonna ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 18:04:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've done this many times but not as the one buying the car. One of the things I have trouble getting across is that when you buy a 10 year old car, don't even look at a Caravan, Mitsubishi, etc. Stay with high rated cars if they've already got some miles on them. Another thing to look for is mismatching tires. It means something is wrong and it's wearing out one tire so they had to replace it.
[deleted] ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mismatching tires also speaks to the persons overall maintenance. Thereâs not a tire shop or dealer in the world that wonât recommend 2 or 4 tires(depending on the driveline). If that vehicle has a single odd tire then you already know the person has ignored mechanics advise on necessary repairs. That, for me, is an instant walk away.
iekiko89 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:56:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Or a tire that couldn't get fixed from a tire puncture
TwoWayTony ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:05:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mitsubishis aren't good?
Missanonna ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:25:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not for long.
tomytronics ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bring my Dad along, ASE certified and cheaper than hiring someone else. :D
OnLandOrSeaOrFoam ¡ 219 points ¡ Posted at 16:11:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
This is incredibly helpful. Thanks for putting this together.
Edit: hey all, this guy deserves some upvotes for his post!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 179 points ¡ Posted at 17:15:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. And I don't need no upvotes. Just want to keep people from wasting money.
BLMdidHarambe ¡ 56 points ¡ Posted at 17:39:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The more upvotes this post gets, the more people see it.
InstantLover ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Exactly.
outlaw-s-t-a-r ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 17:49:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
We need humans like this everywhere immediately!
PatrikPatrik ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is number one tip possible if the car has a button starter?
hibbidydibbidi ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:51:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes, read again.
CanYouNotBeAnAssHat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm fond of you.
CanYouNotBeAnAssHat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm fond of you.
McMqsmith ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This was extremely helpful. My 2003 Honda Civic is nearing the end, and admittedly I have not been taking good care of it. Iâve ran it by a buddy thatâs a mechanic and told me that it would cost more to fix it than itâs worth, so Iâve been dreading navigating that. I get constant oil changes, but it probably wonât make it through 2020.
This was great. Thanks dude!
InoxyMane ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:14:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Keep people from wasting money, add another 0 to this upvote
TheEyeDontLie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've bought and sold eight used cars over the years. I didn't know half the stuff in this thread.
Maybe my next secondhand car will last over a few years.
ImmaEatYoFace ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 20:54:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awww why was it removed?
LordKwik ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:53:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It was probably removed because they didn't allow lists in the past. Although I can't find a rule about it now.
astronurd ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 20:55:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Aaaaaand it's gone
hollister926 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Right? What's up with that?
colborne ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:13:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Made me laugh. Southpark reference or Drew & Mike? Or both?
ZestyUrethra ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 20:56:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why was this deleted? I really wanted to read this!!
dadsprizegrill ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 21:09:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why was it removed? I didnt even get to read
Frenchy_Baguette ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 21:10:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why was it deleted? Would really like to read the post.
DylanTheDefiant ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 22:15:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just go here https://www.removeddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Frenchy_Baguette ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:16:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for the link!
DylanTheDefiant ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:47:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Welcome!
mitchsn ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 17:49:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
VIN number check. There's a small online fee but this should give you a record of who has owned it and if it's been involved in any serious accidents. In CA its state law that any accidents be reported to the DMV.
Patch_Ohoulihan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:37:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If over a certain damage amount cost yes. Even then if you do the repairs etc yourself it's never reported.
897843 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:14:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Never fully trust a vin report from any online vendor like carfax. Sometimes damage reports donât get reported for some reason.
I had to have a quarter panel replaced on my car, about $3.5k of damage, but it never showed up on the carfax. But my tire rotations and oil changes show up just fine.
Always get your car checked by a trusted mechanic before buying a used car!
benjeeee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:27:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I nearly totaled my old pickup truck and did nearly $9k worth of damage to it (thankfully no frame damage). I filed a claim with my insurance company, paid my $500 deductible, and left it at a local body shop where it took like 3 weeks to get fixed. When I went to sell it a couple of years later, I ran a Carfax report on it and discovered that neither my insurance company nor the body shop had reported the accident. Thankfully I'm an honest person, disclosed everything to the buyer, and let them review the paperwork from the shop detailing everything that was repaired/replaced. TL/DR: Don't trust Carfax reports.
897843 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:39:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yup neither Progressive or my body shop reported the damage. When I eventually sell my car Iâll be honest and tell the potential buyer about it but itâs still crazy that it just slipped through.
silpheed5 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:07:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I use a free site - vin check info . It also provides estimated values and can show maintenance records if theyâre reported.
googgles ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:07:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Canât recommend this enough! In New Zealand we have CarJam and itâs got most information you need about the history, the odometer history so you can tell if itâs been wound back (big problem over here), Warrant of Fitness expiry, rego expiry, and lots of other handy information about the vehicle
SharpenedStone ¡ 13 points ¡ Posted at 19:14:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wonderful. Time to save this and never look at it again.
minimK ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:56:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are you me? LOL
MrChocFish ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:42 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
I second that Good sir
wowbagger30 ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wtf why was this post removed?
garciawork ¡ 71 points ¡ Posted at 17:56:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The best advice in here is to not trust the person selling the car. I have heard so many people who will agree, but say that they have a particular sale person that isnât that way. Not true. They all are. That is why they stay in the business around other like minded folks.
Source: 8 years in the car biz in sales and management.
SIGRemedy ¡ 27 points ¡ Posted at 18:46:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Youâre spot on. Even the exceptional folks in sales that I really love are still in sales. Even if they remember your familyâs car purchases from 20 years ago without having to look it up, and know what they did for a living and their life story, they still want to sell you a car. Some may be honest and up front with you, and some may not badger you to buy if you have hesitations, but I donât know Iâve ever met someone who survives in sales that wonât agree to sell you a car you ask for, good or bad for you. Itâs not an indictment against them... I donât judge mechanics for wanting to fix things that are broken or custodians for wanting to clean things, after all.
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I recently bought a car with all the paperwork since the day it was built 14 years ago, including original receipts
There's still problems, luckily not major ones
Vermillionbird ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm currently car shopping and so far 100% of sales people have lied to me--either there's a fee they "forgot" which pops up in negotiations, or the advertised price suddenly becomes 3k higher, or i bust out my scanner and all of a sudden the "totally immaculate like new" car has a bevy of codes which were recently cleared...
Melloman3005 ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I feel personally attacked by number eight lol. I never take immaculate care of the interior or exterior of my car, but the mechanical is always up to snuff. Oil changes at every interval so on and so forth. To me that one is a more minor thing.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 20:15:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There are always exceptions. But I've seen a ton of cars come through my shop. Way more often than not, if the car looks like trash on the inside and outside, the same is true for the Mechanicals. Sorry you got lumped into that group
Melloman3005 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh no I totally get it. I wasn't offended, just throwing my 2 cents in.
YadaYadaYeahMan ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 00:37:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I came here to say the same thing, I work on my own cars and they always look like shit, but are basically sleepers inside. I'm not one for car culture, so to me it looking bad is just insurance against theft. But, that said you'd never see one of my cars haha
RamzFanz ¡ 41 points ¡ Posted at 17:42:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here's an LPT for you OP:
When sharing a youtube clip where the relevant part is later in the video, go to the point in the video where it starts, click share, and select "Start at" on the bottom left.
Like so: https://youtu.be/pOghpmVhVng?t=54
Or, you can just add ?t=54 to the end of the link before posting it, "54" being however many seconds in you want it to start.
SSNappa ¡ 16 points ¡ Posted at 19:47:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Heres a LPT to your LPT for OP:
If you add ?t=XXmXXs instead you get the exact time stamp with minutes and seconds. This is useful for longer videos so you dont have to break 18 min and 34 seconds into seconds
RamzFanz ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 22:33:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice.
I tested if it used minutes and seconds or just seconds before posting but didnât know there was a backdoor.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks RamzFanz, I'll use that next time.
CatsAreLiquid1 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Or right click the video and choose "Copy video URL at current time".
RamzFanz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:34:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another good one. Nice.
ltgsamblack ¡ 17 points ¡ Posted at 20:54:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Glad to read comments on something that is apparently amazing but deleted.
DopeAbsurdity ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:24:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Use a reddit backup/parody site like Snew
here is a link to the post:
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/
ladyxlucifer ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 18:38:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm looking to get a new to me car soon and the dealers treat me like I'm just some dumb girl. Unlucky for them, I am smart enough to do research and read! Thank you for all of this info. I'm going to go teach the salesman somethin'!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's good. Always do your research before any major expense. Unfortunately, most people don't, and that's what they're betting on . Also, after telling the salesman their car is a POS, kick him in the balls and then skip your way out of the dealership
Terriblis_Pater ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 17:15:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very detailed and good writeup. The majority of readers, however, will just go for a quick tire kick, test drive, and then maybe pay someone else to "inspect" the car mechanically.
poopybuttface10 ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 18:00:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow I wish I knew some of these tips when I bought my first few cars. Ended up with 3 POS Volvos from the same guy. Idiotic mistakes, really. I was a dumb kid though, lesson learned
ricensalsa ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 19:57:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I hear ya! My first car was a 92 accord i bought from a guy for $700. The hood was dented and he told me he hit it with his tractor while clearing the driveway. Fair enough. Two days later i got pulled over for an alleged hit and run. I was able to clear it up by showing when i had bought the car, but man did i ever shit when they told me that
iekiko89 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:32:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why would you buy 3 cars from the same guy after the first one was a POS?
poopybuttface10 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 22:32:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Because I'm dumb
grandmasbroach ¡ 9 points ¡ Posted at 20:39:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I'd make a small correction as someone who sold cars for about 7 years. Buying from a dealer can be a good thing. It just depends what they offer with the vehicle in the way of warranty and maintenance. I'm not in the biz anymore and have no dog in the fight here. I just want you nice people to have a better idea of what you're doing when buying a car.
I worked for a dealer that actually cared about our customers. What you want to do, is go to a dealer that sells new AND used cars. Not what we call the rock chip shops. Which, are the purely used car dealers. They buy their cars cheap as possible on trades or auctions, Jack the price up, you talk them down a thousand bucks, think you won, and theyre laughing all the way to the bank with your money. You just spent 6k on a car they bought for 3k!
A respectable dealer will show you the INVOICE that they purchased the vehicle for. They are a business at the end of the day and aren't selling to you at the same price. They are going to make a profit, just not as much.
You can ask the sales rep this question too. Are you guys a volume or gross profit store? Some dealers will have hundreds of run of the mill cars like your Malibus, camry, corolla, etc and ask for a small profit on a lot of vehicles. Others will carry the harder to find stuff, and go for a bigger profit in hopes you'll make a purchase based on emotion rather than logic. They don't have as many vehicles though and are usually easy to spot.
One thing I can confidently say, in all my years doing that, I never saw someone get a warranty that eventually didn't pay for itself. At least get one that covers your power train. If you're buying a used car, it's probably safe to say you're not rolling in money like Scrooge Mcduck. A good way to know what that type covers, is the transmission, and anything that gets fed oil in the vehicle system.
You can determine monthly payment pretty quickly using this little formula. For every thousand dollars that you finance, it will cost about $20 per month. If you finance $10k, you're payment will be right around $200 per month. Then, closer to $15-$19 on spectacular credit. So, if i see grandma and grandpa pull up in their 1996 Cadillac in mint condition, I can start to safely assume they have decent credit if not great, and spit out payments while we walk on the lot.
Dealerships are set up from the minute you pull in, to the moment you're driving off in a new whip. As a successful car sales rep, I was looking at your car as you pull in. The trade appraise is almost meaningless to the customer. The real reason we do this, at least the ones actually selling, is to get information on you to build repoir. If I see dog hair all over the seats. Guess what I'm going to say when we talk numbers? Oh, looks like my girlfriend just text me to show me this cute thing my dog just did, check it out! Oh man, their not even part of the family, they are family! My little baby... Then the customer is like, oooooooooh! I have floofer too! Bitch, I know. I told my girlfriend to text me that to sell you a car. That's why you only see the picture and not my conversation. Another one, car seats were my favorite to see. The more of them the better. Now I know what the selling points are. We gotta get you in something sage for your babies! It just so happens that I'm going to convince you safe really means, a big ass, way over priced SUV. You deserve you know? Tell me, how hard do you work and slave away for your babies? We all know it's worth it, but what have you done for yourself lately? I think you deserve to have a safe, comfortable vehicle that you can be proud to drive. You can say, this is mine, and I deserve it! Your kids deserve a safe vehicle to ride in everyday too. You can't out a price on safety or gratification, you just can't. Let's get this thing cleaned up, and get you out of here in your new car? Big ass smile from me.
The point of that is just to show you that cars sales reps, are probably the best at selling you things you don't need out of almost any other industry. The dealership is literally set up to do this. The entire process is a sham, and set up to get you to buy. BUT AND HOWEVER, don't shoot yourself in the foot by not going to a respected dealership in your area who has the car you want. Get a solid warranty on it and you'll be alright. The bigger the dealership, the more expendable money they have. The more expendable money they have, the more likely they'll help you out in a pinch. Some, definitely not all, want to do right by you so you come back again for the next car. That, and tell all of your friends how good of a job I did so go to him and no one else.
I really tried to do right for people. Now, there were definitely people that treat you like shit just because you sell cars. If some of you knew how much money you can make selling cars, you'd drop out of college, and go do it. I cleared six figures my first year. It was up from that, and even got close to $225k one year. Thing is, say bye to your family. The dealership is now your home. You will spend at the minimum, 50 hours a week, and that's a short one. I got out because I was working ten to twelve hour days, six days a week, every week, and took one small five day vacation to fly to Florida for my brother's wedding. That was it for the six or seven years I did it. If you look up on glass door the average for a car sales rep. It is waaaaaaay off. The reason for this is because about 95% of people who try, fail in the first few months. This drags the average down to the mud. Look at what the top 10-20% are making because either you'll make that, or you won't be selling cars at all. You will get fired. Or, sick of the hours and lose all motivation to stay at it. It is a fucking grind, and why I don't do it anymore. Even at the top it was the most stressful job I have ever had. I eventually finished my degree and took a Monday through Friday, 9-5er. If you're young and want to make some money, read a few car sales books, put a suit and tie on, and go to your nearest dealer. It's commission. So, you'll either make them money. Or, waste your time at the dealership. If you don't start putting your chalks on the board in a few months, they'll just launch you as dead weight. You know what? It took me 3 dealerships before I found my niche and started making real money. In that industry, you must learn to persevere, never quit, and just keep going at all costs. You'll make it with that attitude, you have my word.
Oh, I wanted to add this to help with negotiations and forget. So, it's out of place at the end here as I'm typing on my phone and not about to do that level of editing. Anyways, stick to the BLUEBOOK PRICE!!! That goes for buying a car, and trading yours out. It doesn't matter what the sticker says!!! I promise you this. First, if they won't show you the invoice, walk the fuck away immediately! I would show the invoice, and after that deal by asking the customer what they think a fair profit was for us. 5%? 10%? Did you have a number in mind? Obviously I'm not selling under invoice unless my manager says move the unit and sell it. Here's the invoice, do whatever you want, don't go under x number, if you sell it I'll give you x commission since the profit is gone. We have to do lot upkeep, wash the cars, change the oil as per manufacturer recommendations, etc. The cars start racking up money just sitting on the lot. If they sit for a year or more, it's time to move it. I'm rambling again...
Here's the trap you don't want to get stuck in. I saw so many people pass up legit amazing deals simply because we refused to negotiate on them. We were rock bottom on it to start. A lot of people don't think they got a deal unless they got us to lower price. Here's the scenario. Dealer A has a car listsd for $10k, and it books out at $9.5k. Most people would rather go to dealer B where the car is listed for $13k. Then, talk them down $2k, and buy that same car for a full thousand dollars more, all because dealer A wouldn't haggle. So, watch out for this, and stick the BLUEBOOK. It exists for a reason, use it.
If you're buying a car and need advice feel free to pm me. I still enjoy helping people make a good decision with their vehicle. It's the second biggest purchase most people will make. I really tried to not be the slime ball and get people what they wanted at a good price. I had no interest in ripping anyone off, and told the managers so when I started. I told them of I do this, I'm doing it right. I thrived on return customers and referrals. Word got out that there was actually a car salesman who was on the customers side and not just trying to make a ton of money. Well, unless you are a dick. In that case, I'm going to do what's called smash your fucking head. That's when I profit something stupid like $8k, and take home 30-40% of it. Was easy to do on dick heads with big trucks. I would just massage that ego. What, you're telling me you can't afford a $900 a month payment? I thought you were a millionaire when you pulled up! Stop lying to me, I know you have piles of money in your bank. Let's sign these papers and get you out of here and back to work at your construction company? Boom! I ALWAYS gave them multiple chances to be nicer. If they didn't, either I was making a bunch of money. Or, you won't buy it and go somewhere else. I'll just move on to the next.
Seriously, pm me if you have a question. I really enjoy helping people get better deals on their cars. Saved my brother $5k on his new Subbie. Saved my buddy almost $10k on a new Toyota truck. They were trying to smash his head on the trade in. I told him to just get up and leave because he was at the wrong dealer. He did, got new numbers, haggled a bit, and saved $200 a month in car payment. I'll do it for you as well, free of charge.
Tldr, I sold cars for quite a few years. Pm me if you need help buying one.
DWright_5 ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 18:14:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is incredibly informative. Unfortunately, Iâm in the target audience - I know nothing about cars - and I almost feel I have to take a class to understand some of these tips. Especially #1 - I was lost!
Thanks though. The post was an interesting read.
[deleted] ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 18:55:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah no kidding. The real LPT is to build the cost of a couple of pre-purchase inspections into your budget. Iâve had a few done at different places and the price is typically around $75. If you donât know what an OBD scanner is just skip OPâs post and take the car to a shop. If the seller wonât let you thereâs no bigger red flag and you should GTFO.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I tried to explain it as Layman as I could, sorry. That's why I said buy the scanner and practice with it. It's really only a few clicks to see if a car has codes on most scanners. Follow the instructions and do it once or twice and you'll have it down
DWright_5 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 22:23:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I get it. I have a couple areas of expertise and itâs definitely not easy to dumb them down to a novice level.
Lallers96 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:12:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same i feel so out of my depth this really is overly complicated. A lot of jargon used that I have no understanding of.
DWright_5 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:16:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah. OP had good intentions, but for novices a lot of the information was inaccessible. I understand how that happens. Itâs really not easy to boil down an understanding of a complex subject to something that just anyone will comprehend
MostBasicWoman ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 17:09:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much for the time and effort you've put into this! It's greatly appreciated.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 17 points ¡ Posted at 17:26:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Hopefully it helps you out. A lot of this stuff can be done routinely on the car you already own too!
TheGarp ¡ 16 points ¡ Posted at 18:51:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You forgot :
1: DO NOT BUY a Jeep \ Dodge \ Chrysler product.
greatflywheeloflogic ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 10:49:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man I get the stigma, but i had a wrangler for 9 years and never had any major issues with it. Maybe I just got lucky? It was also a complete base model so less potential electrical issues
Ducal ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
2: DO BUY a Honda \ Toyota \ Mazda
NatShermanMCD ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:05:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
^ the real MVP
mantisfree ¡ 36 points ¡ Posted at 16:06:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great info! I thought I was pretty thorough in my inspections, but I learned a few more pointers from you. Thank you!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 14 points ¡ Posted at 17:14:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Glad I could help!
ontopofyourmom ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 09:02:26 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks so much for this timely post. I'm probably making a purchase this week.
I'm no mechanic but I'm handy enough with cars to do everything on your list and probably a few other things that you might not have included. Would it make sense to go to a mechanic even if I did every test and was satisfied by the result? If my mechanic didn't have access to a lift, would that make a difference.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:32:53 on January 6, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
It's always best to play it safe. Having a professional mechanic take a look at it definitely can't hurt as they may find something you missed. I would definitely take it to one with a lift as there is a lot of stuff under the car that you won't be able to see and test unless it is up in the air. Since you feel comfortable doing the stuff in the post, you could use that as a first level inspection. If it passes that, then have a mechanic perform a more thorough inspection. This way you don't have to waste a hundred plus dollars on every car you're looking at if you can weed out the problem vehicles on your own.
ontopofyourmom ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:22:42 on January 6, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for the advice! I appreciate it.
Funambulatory ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Anyone screenshot this that they can provide a mirror?
buchi123 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here you go
copypaper2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:19:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you!
of_the_mountain ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 20:59:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm about to drive to a dealership to buy a used car in like an hour and this post was removed lol. Help me out!
djangelic ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
[deleted] ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[removed]
BernieBeto4President ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 16:51:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a question OP.
So what fuel additives or some other additives I see on the shelves actually do something that makes them worth while?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 17:10:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Some of them have been shown to help. However, they work slowly, so they're not a quick fix for an existing problem, nor are they very beneficial if used infrequently. Many of your top tier gas providers like Chevron and Shell already put additives in their fuel to help keep injectors clean and valves/pistons clear of excess deposits. I don't use additives in my cars or customer cars, if that helps.
slayer_f-150 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 17:32:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
List of Top Tier Gasoline brands: https://www.toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/
rusted_wheel ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:34:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
SuperAmerica isn't on the list. Is this to be avoided?
897843 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:26:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Once I started using Shell and Chevron gas I did notice a difference in the smoothness of my engine after a little while. Before I was just using the cheapest gas possible, but I wonât be going back to low tier now.
PastaBolognese ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:38:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Their parent company "Speedway" used to be a Top Tier provider. SuperAmerica used to be as well before they were reacquired by Speedway.
Not being Top Tier would be a relatively recent change, maybe even starting in 2019.
It's not something you should really worry a ton about. If SuperAmerica gas ran poor somebody would have discovered that information. It's something where if you put SuperAmerica in vs Top Tier over 15 years...you might notice something (slight decrease in MPG for example). Every engine is different though. And the health of every engine can vary a ton. For most, in normal driving applications, you won't notice anything.
By and large, any gasoline you fill up with in America is great. You're not going to ruin your car. You're just not getting a standardized set of fuel additives in your fill-up.
897843 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 05:13:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think top tier is definitely worth the 5-10 cents more per gallon. Shellâs top tier gas has been proven to actually clean pistons/cylinder heads and fuel injectors, which in turn gives you slightly better gas mileage and a longer lasting engine. Iâm sure other top tier brands do as well.
But youâre right, most drivers wonât notice a huge difference. I switched exclusively to shell and chevron when I read in my owners manual that I should only use top tier detergent gasoline. After I switched, I gained an extra 2-3 mpg and a noticeably smoother reving engine.
Iâm not a mechanic or anything but I am a believer in top tier gas and think everybody should run it in their cars for 1-2 thousand miles and see if they notice a difference. I bet quite a few people will notice their engine running better.
benjeeee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:23 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To piggy back on your comment, if you live near a Costco with a gas station, their fuel is certified as Top Tier and is usually significantly cheaper than the other surrounding gas stations. It's probably not worth the membership fee just for the gas though unless you're going to buy other stuff at Costco (or unless you drive a gas guzzler like I do).
420andmore ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:27:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As far as fuel additives I agree, but I highly recommend the BG CPR oil additives. One that you run through prior to the oil change, and the additive you add after. Our bg rep brought some stuff out to demonstrate the products and the results were really quite great.
Hellcowz ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 18:11:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Most of this is good info. Some a bit misleading. Lemon law only affects new cars not used. Unless there is a expressly written warranty for the used car.
encompassion ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think the tire issue should get a break as well. If they fit and work, who cares if they're the same brand? I don't think choosing not to throw unnecessary money at the car is an indicator of poor maintenance decisions. I'd rather spend the 20 50 90 dollars on actual care or gas or other life
Buying generic and using coupons doesn't automatically mean you cheap out and avoid decent food/medication/products.
Hellcowz ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 19:00:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I 100% agree with that.
neongecko12 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:29:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
While obviously not always the case, replacing just the most worn tyre is a potential sign that other maintenance could have been avoided/cheaped out on.
Odd tyres could also be a sign of tracking issues that are wearing certain tyres out faster than others.
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:31:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tyres should be matched in pairs at the very least
The last thing you want is one to grip and the other to slip, you'll experience some very unwanted handling with mismatched tires
samoyedsensei ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:23:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm pretty sure this is not true? Iâm under the impression Lemon applies to used card under 125k miles.
Hellcowz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Despite the fact that a used car is a much more likely candidate to be a âlemon,â federal lemon laws generally cover only new vehicle purchases. But there is one major exception: if the owner has received an express written warranty along with the used vehicle, then federal lemon law will likely cover the used car.
There is more too it and can vary slightly from state to state. But generally, over federal law. Lemon law applies only to new cars.
narf007 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 18:23:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This may get buried but I wanted to add tithe Bluetooth OBD2 scanners are quite excellent and will allow you to monitor many things in real time as well.
I use Torque Pro, the app, and it allows custom polling rates for logging data. So you can add anything from throttle % to your Fuel trim values.
It'll then save it in a file that can be emailed, opened, and then you can fully go through and really dig deep into how your car is running.
It is really quite handy. I even used it with the cars speed sensor and my phone gps to pull up a second by second satellite map (an option from the xml file export) to show that the cop that stopped me and claimed I was speeding was incorrect. The timestamps didn't match up and I was actually going under the speedlimit (I was trying to find a place). Judge accepted the information and dismissed my ticket. (YMMV though).
Bottom line they're cheap, easy to use, and very, very helpful. I just leave mine plugged in and it connects to my phone and starts logging when it starts. Sometimes I'll pull up a custom "dash" just to see how my vacuum, coolant, oil temps are without looking at an analog dial in your gauge cluster.
skypieces ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great tip, leaving it plugged in!
ticanic42 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 21:13:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So the comments made this look like it was really useful and Iâm about to buy a used car. Rip me I could have used this
DylanTheDefiant ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 21:51:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey man just go here https://www.removeddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
sysadminbj ¡ 21 points ¡ Posted at 16:17:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for future car buying tips.
Great post!
GoneInSixtyFrames ¡ 10 points ¡ Posted at 18:11:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ctrl+P Print as PDF Desktop>Reddit>BestUsedCarTips.pdf
contra11 ¡ -3 points ¡ Posted at 17:08:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Same
lurker_turned_active ¡ -3 points ¡ Posted at 17:23:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
ditto
Penelepillar ¡ 8 points ¡ Posted at 17:28:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TL;DR: Valuable information you actually should read!
skypieces ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Seconding this. Itâs well worth the read time just to know these things exist and remember to refer back to them later for refresher and details.
CinnamonUranium ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:13:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here is a used Car inspection checklist.
http://pop.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/06/54d1504cb1bd6_-_used-car-checklist.pdf
disk5464 ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Donut media did a really good video on this a while back https://youtu.be/Z1eBlGcsSR8
Meninx ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I got fucked because I wasn't aware of point #1 he made here. Not 24 hours after I bought it, my 2006 Sienna is throwing P0420 and P0430 check engine codes, so I'm likely looking at failed SMOG next go around and thousands in parts and labor for a new catalytic converter.
warbeastqt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Didnât they have to pass a smog upon sale?
LOLBaltSS ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:40:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In some states, they can BS their way around it. Texas for example allows one "not ready" status and still being able to pass the emissions test. So say for example you have a failing cat, you can reset the codes; drive about 20-30 miles until everything else is ready and pass it before the cat code pops again.
Also too, there's always places that'll look the other way if they can get away with it. I've known plenty of people in PA that would go to a "lick and stick" where you basically can slip the shop a few bucks to just pass it.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That sucks. Those cats are integrated into the exhaust manifolds which means you have to replace the entire manifold assembly. That's going to be costly
Takethisnrun ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:37:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Both my Hondaâs had that 420 code says something below threshold. What does that mean?
Spike_guy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:40:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
RIP bro. My 2006 sienna converter went bad a year after I bought it. Sucks. Sorry!
justanothergamer ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here's a copy of the post (part 1) from https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people:
Iâm a mechanic/auto shop owner. I figured Iâd put some stuff together for anyone interested in buying a used car but doesnât know anything about cars. Obviously the best option is to take it to an auto shop to have it thoroughly inspected by a professional before you buy it. The key word here is BEFORE you buy it. I donât know how many people Iâve had come to my shop for an inspection after they bought itâŚ.ugghh. The $150 or so you spend is worth not buying something that may have thousands of dollars of problems. But if thatâs not an option, here are some tips to help keep you from buying a lemon:
Use the scanner to check the monitors on the engine ECU. Monitors are a series of self checks that the ECU does on the engine. All applicable monitors should be set (passed/complete). They get reset when you clear the check engine light, or when you disconnect the battery (usually). If all of the monitors havenât passed, then itâs quite likely the person selling it has reset the check engine light recently (may be trying to hide a problem), or thereâs a problem that isnât allowing the monitor to complete. Not a good sign. Walk away.
For reference, hereâs what a normal cranking sound should be: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v0h_Ygqox0
Hereâs what a low compression cylinder cranking sounds like. Itâs at about :55 secs : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOghpmVhVng
If you listen closely, youâll hear the unsteady rhythm. Loss of compression is usually piston rings, valves, or head gasket. All costly. If the engine sounds funny when cranking, walk away.
If the car youâre looking at doesnât have a clear flood mode, you can remove the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box, which turns off the fuel pump. Most cars have one, but some donât. Some cars can be a real PITA to disable it from starting. Google the car youâre looking at with something like âYYYY Make Model clear floodâ or âYYYY Make Model disable fuel pumpâ and see if thereâs an easy way to achieve this.
Practice this beforehand on cars you have access to if possible to tune your ear to the sound. You can also do this periodically on your own car to see if any problems are arising.
Check the fluids. All of the fluids will have minimum/maximum marks. If fluids are low, someone has not been maintaining the car well, or it has developed a leak. Not a good sign. When checking the engine oil, it should range from clear to black. If it looks like chocolate milkshake, there is a major problem. RUN AWAY. Remember to check the oil with the engine off and on level ground. Some new cars donât have dipsticks (mainly European). If so, youâre SOL. Check the coolant in the reservoir. It should be green, pink, red, yellow, orange, blue, or purple, depending on manufacturer. If itâs rusty, walk away. Remove the radiator cap (only if the engine is cold) and look at the cap and in the radiator. If you see any rust or chunky/gritty brown stuff, walk away. If itâs just water, walk away (be careful here, Fordâs yellow coolant almost looks clear). Check the automatic transmission fluid. For the most part, it should be red, but sometimes amber or green. It may be black. Thatâs dirty. Not a deal breaker, but they havenât been keeping up on maintenance. It should not smell burnt, though. Thatâs bad. If it looks like strawberry milkshake, thatâs really bad. Also, remember that you should check the level on automatic transmissions while the engine is running in Park and after driving it and getting the transmission good and hot. The only exception is most Hondas. Thatâs checked after driving but with the engine off. Google it for the car you plan on looking at to make sure. Many new cars donât have a transmission dipsticks, so again, youâre SOL there.
Start the engine and listen for any noises. The engine should be cold. If itâs at operating temperature, the seller may have warmed it up to hide some cold start engine noises. Be wary. If it makes any noises, walk away.
Look for maintenance records. If it has consistent oil change records at an oil change place, at least theyâve been changing the oil. Unfortunately, oil change places only check easy profitable stuff. Itâs better than nothing, though. If the records are all at an independent shop, thatâs better. Indyâs will usually do a pretty thorough check up on the car when servicing it. If it has all dealer records, thatâs the holy grail. Dealers will find any nick nack thatâs wrong and upsell it. They also commonly donât do thorough diagnostics (this is an unfortunate effect of the way dealer shops operate). So if it needed repairs, on top of having new parts that needed replacing, it may have other new parts that it didnât even need. Shitty Independents fall into the latter as well, but for different reasons.
Check that everything works on the car. Check the A/C, the heater, the windows, the locks, the mirrors, the head/parking/brake lights, etc. If the owner neglected to fix obvious problems, what else did they decide not to fix?
Look under the hood and look for any hokey work. Zip ties, tape, broken plastic pieces, a battery that can move around if you push on it, wires hanging, etc. If it looks like unprofessional work has been done on what you can see, how bad is what you canât see?
How does the car look? Is it dirty, full of scratches, stained? If the owner cares so little about the interior/exterior, they probably have the same attitude towards the mechanical part of it.
Check the tires. Aside from general condition, do they all match? If all the tires are different, theyâre cheap/broke, and have probably cheaped out on a lot more than just tires. Lay your hand flat on the tire tread and light feel around the tires. If you feel a repeating pattern of flat spots/dips, you have suspension problems.
Try and stay away from used car dealers. Used car dealers get the majority of their cars from auctions. Most cars that go to auction are sent there by someone that doesnât want it, usually because there are problems. Not all, but most. New car dealers send trade-ins that are too old to put on their lot, and some of those are decent. However, the small used car dealers usually buy the bottom of the barrel cars at auction. Theyâll fix the minimum needed with the cheapest parts possible to maximize profit. Theyâll make it look pretty, though. Good chance youâre buying a polished turd.
Obviously, test drive the car. Drive it at different speeds up to highway speeds. Brake easy, brake hard. Find a crappy road or railroad tracks to drive over. Make sure there are no noises or vibrations. Get it good and warm. When youâre done, open the hood and take a good whiff. Make sure there are no strong smells (like burning fluids or other things). Look under the car and see if anything is dripping or the bottom of the engine is covered in fluids. Donât be alarmed if you see water dripping under the car at about the same area as the base of the windshield/firewall. If the A/C or defroster was on, that is just condensate from the A/C system. Touch it. If itâs not oily and looks/feels like water, it should be OK. If youâre test driving a manual car, the clutch engagement point should be somewhere in the middle of the clutch pedal travel. If itâs right at the top or right at the bottom, clutch repairs are in the near future.
justanothergamer ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
(part 2/2)
So what youâre going to want to do is look at the data on the engine computer. You want to make sure you connect to the computer using GENERIC OBD2 on your scanner. Different manufacturers will call these fuel trims by different names, and display the percentage in different ways. But if you connect using generic obd, itâs always going to use a standardized display format across all vehicles. Youâre going to see a long list of a bunch of different data. Scroll through until you find âshort term fuel trimâ and âlong term fuel trimâ
Short term fuel trim, depending on your scanner, may be displayed as: Short term fuel trim STFT ST ST%
Long term fuel trim may be displayed as: Long Term Fuel Trim LTFT LT LT%
Letâs assume your scanner uses the more common STFT and LTFT designation. Youâre going to see a number after the letters, so STFT1 and LTFT1. The number means the âbankâ or side of the engine. A 4 cylinder engine only has one âsideâ so youâll only see STFT1 and LTFT1. However, a V6 or V8 engine has two sides of the engine (3 or 4 cylinders on one side, and 3 or 4 cylinder on the other side, hence the V6 or V8). The computer controls fuel independently for each side of the engine, so youâll see a STFT1 and LTFT1 for one side of the engine, and STFT2 and LTFT2 for the other side. Donât be alarmed if youâre looking at a V6 or V8 engine and you only see STFT1 and LTFT1. Many late 90s cars and some early 2000s cars didnât control fuel separately for each side of the engine, and lumped both sides into one bank.
When looking at the short term and long term fuel trims, youâll notice the long term fuel trim number stays pretty steady, but the short term fuel trim number may change a lot. This is normal. The difference between short and long term fuel trims is not important, but what is important to note is that they are cumulative. So if STFT=4 and LTFT=3, then your total fuel trim is 7%. Letâs take a look at some examples on a V8:
STFT1 3 STFT2 6 LTFT1 2 LTFT2 1
So the total fuel trim on bank 1 is 5% (3+2) and the total fuel trim on bank 2 is 7% (6+1). Each bank is below +/- 10%. Thatâs pretty good.
STFT1 -5 STFT2 3 LTFT1 3 LTFT2 1
Bank 1 fuel trim is -2% (-5 +3) and bank 2 is 4% (3+1). Again, thatâs good.
STFT1 6 STFT2 7 LTFT1 10 LTFT2 15
Bank 1 fuel trim is 16% (6+10) and bank 2 is 22% (7+15). Thatâs not good. Walk away from this one.
Check these numbers with the engine running at idle, and rev up the engine and hold it at about 2500rpms and check it there. Like I said, you may see the STFT number change pretty quickly, so just use the average of the numbers you see for that one. If you have someone with you, you can have them check the numbers while you drive as well.
Practice this on a car you have access to beforehand.
I would recommend running through these things, and any others you want to add, on your current car, your parentsâ cars, friendsâ cars, etc. Do it several times. Get comfortable in making these checks so that when youâre doing them in front of some stranger on their car, you wonât forget anything.
logangrey123 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:06:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks
[deleted] ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 21:22:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 21:32:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 21:25:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:35:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 21:28:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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this1isnttaken ¡ 22 points ¡ Posted at 17:28:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This checklist Makes me want to get an electric car.
thrombolytic ¡ 23 points ¡ Posted at 18:08:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not sure how tongue-in-cheek you're being, but I'll use this opportunity to say that I'm 2 years into driving my Chevy Bolt and I love it. I've put 34k miles on it (commute ~100 mi a day). Sure, I've saved around $3k in gas money (eaten up by the higher cost of a new car), but the lack of stopping for gas twice a week on my way home has saved me about 70 hours of my life in the last 2 years. No oil changes. The ride on the freeway is much quieter, which helps with my sanity for the long commute.
I'll drive my Bolt for as long as it lasts and then I'll get a new electric car. I'm excited to see more makes and models hitting the market, hoping for a small SUV next time.
Superhereaux ¡ 31 points ¡ Posted at 18:03:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Electric cars still have brakes, brake fluid, tires, suspension components, an A/C system, door locks, window motors, etc. to worry about and they can fail just as easily.
Donât think electric cars donât have their own sets of problems. A bad battery pack, bad cell or faulty/corroded connections are a lot harder to diagnose over time than a leaky o-ring or gasket that can easily be seen.
Electric cars are indeed the future but for right now and probably the next 20 years or so, I can promise you something as simple as a properly maintained Toyota Corolla, Mazda 3 or plain jane Honda Civic will outlast any electric car on the market today. Battery packs have about a 10 year life span before they crap out and lose the ability to hold a charge.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 18:15:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Personally, I'm banking on saving enough money on gas and oil changes that I'll be able to replace the battery when the time comes instead of having to get a whole new car. But you raise some good points. They aren't for everyone.
SIGRemedy ¡ 11 points ¡ Posted at 18:32:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I worked with a lady who had a battery pack replacement on a hybrid she had to do. Was something like $6000 at the time, a few years back. Iâm sure thatâll get cheaper as the technology matures, but it was as expensive as a used car at that point!
NomNomNews ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:24:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Under $1500 today. https://greenbeanbattery.com/toyota-prius-hybrid-battery-replacement-california/
EVs and hybrids are cheaper to run than traditional gas cars, period.
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:45:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm seriously glad to see this! While I love my totally uneconomical, inappropriate car... daily drivers should be something far more practical like an EV.
Patch_Ohoulihan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:36:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
6k plus for the battery. Start saving! Hehe
NomNomNews ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:25:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Under $1500 today. https://greenbeanbattery.com/toyota-prius-hybrid-battery-replacement-california/
EVs and hybrids are cheaper to run than traditional gas cars, period.
Patch_Ohoulihan ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lmao a bolt battery is 6k ev arent cheaper and use the same shit. I know you brain washed msn idiots think otherwise but no. It's built same way as your avg car and uses all the same parts. Only difference is one has a giant battery plus a reg one to power it.
_vogonpoetry_ ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Still on the factory brakes on my 8 year old Volt :) Regenerative braking is amazing.
Also only lost 5% range...
ruly1000 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Older EVs had battery life problems, newer ones don't. I have a 2013 Nissan Leaf (built after April 2013), has 60K miles and all 12 battery life bars. I expect my pack to last the life of the car.
Edit: reason April 2013 is important for the Leaf is Nissan changed the battery chemistry around that time. Battery tech/chemistry is continually evolving and improving. Everyone who warns about expensive battery replacement for EVs is usually quoting stats from a decade ago. It's like saying carburetors are crap so don't buy a gas car, while neglecting to acknowledge that carbs haven't been used in cars in 20 years.
NomNomNews ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:21:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fascinating. So my friend's 16 year old 2004 Prius that is working fine is his imagination?
Any my 2013 Tesla is just three years from dying, even though I've only lost 8% range in the past seven years of ownership?
Superhereaux ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 02:28:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A Prius is a hybrid with an internal combustion engine directly driving the wheels. It can run fine on the gas engine alone. Apples and oranges.
As far as your 2013 Tesla, is it three years from dying? Doubtful but in 3 years that 8% turns into 12%. Then 15, then 25. Itâs a slow degradation that ramps up quickly towards the end of the batteryâs life. Thatâs physics and whether you like it or not, you canât change it. Batteries degrade over time and numerous charges. Have you never owned a battery powered anything?
Is a battery pack replaceable? Yes. Is it cost effective at $7-$10k+ on a 10+ year old vehicle?
NomNomNews ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:50:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The 16 year old battery in my friendâs Prius is fine.
There are Teslas on the road with over 500,000 miles on them.
You have no understanding of the advances in batteries over the past several decades. Let alone the advances Tesla has accomplished over the past four years.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 18:14:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This checklist makes me glad I have an electric car.
tecedu ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just don't forget about the battery costs
riceismyname ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:51:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was hoping for some tips relating to specifically buying a used electric car if there are any
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:14:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You'll want to get the reader he was talking about and run a report using LeafSpy or whatever the equivalent is for the brand you're looking at. That can tell you a lot of things about the health of your battery.
[deleted] ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 21:10:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:15:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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everythangspeachie ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:36:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One time i went with my friend to buy a car. It was a late 90s bmw. It had a nice paint job and the interior was nice aswell. We took it for a test drive and after a while the guy called us to come back. It was looking good and my friend was ready to buy it. I accidently made a wrong turn somewhere and when i put it in reverse, it wouldnt move. The transmission was busted and the guy obviously was never going to mention it.
One thing iv learned from buying used cars is that there is always something they arnt telling you about. ALWAYS.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I just did a pre buy a few weeks ago for a customer. It was a Ford Ranger and it had compression problems and the engine was knocking, among other things. Needless to say the inspection results were not good. Customer did not buy the car thank goodness. The seller was also at the shop and I offered to give him a copy of the report as well. He didn't want it. The next poor bastard to look at that car was not going to know any of what we found.
[deleted] ¡ 7 points ¡ Posted at 22:12:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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weggaan_weggaat ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 17:20:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great pointers, I had no idea that it was possible to check the fuel consumption figures like that. It's also worth pointing out that with the proliferation of electrics, this list changes a bit. There's obviously no engine to crank and the fuel consumption check will be at a minimum, quite different.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:19:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can do a battery check on a used electric (and probably should) using similar equipment! Thankfully there's less to worry about when it comes to the engine but fluid levels, tires, etc should all be looked over.
Flash_Jim ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 17:46:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bookmarked. Thankyou Racefiend.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome.
potstillin ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:12:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The best advice is to have a car inspected by a trusted garage or service center. You need an objective opinion on the car. It is very easy to overlook problems because you are distracted by appearance items that really don't contribute to the reliability of the car. Also very easy to be too picky and pass over a good buy. Remember an older car with higher mileage is going to have a few issues, it is up to you to decide if you can live with them or fix them. Newer cars should have fewer issues, that's why they cost more. Higher mileage late model cars tend to be a better buy than low mileage older cars, in my opinion. Time affects the reliability of a car just as surely as maintenance and miles.
nemi999 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thoughts on places like carmax?
LionPandaTiger ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:10:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I worked there around 10 years ago but at that time all the mechanics, painters, etc who fixed cars for the lot said they would buy there. This actually included a couple of employees who'd been fired. Since you can't negotiate, you have to find a car that's what you want in your budget. Not everything is a great price because it's based on what they got it for + repairs, etc. I bought a 98 Toyota back then and still own it.
shakenNstirred ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:52:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I would love a similar post on the purchase of an EV /Tesla.
[deleted] ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
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Krotz93 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm a mechanic/auto shop owner. I figured Iâd put some stuff together for anyone interested in buying a used car but doesnât know anything about cars. Obviously the best option is to take it to an auto shop to have it thoroughly inspected by a professional before you buy it. The key word here is BEFORE you buy it. I donât know how many people Iâve had come to my shop for an inspection after they bought itâŚ.ugghh. The $150 or so you spend is worth not buying something that may have thousands of dollars of problems. But if thatâs not an option, here are some tips to help keep you from buying a lemon:
Use the scanner to check the monitors on the engine ECU. Monitors are a series of self checks that the ECU does on the engine. All applicable monitors should be set (passed/complete). They get reset when you clear the check engine light, or when you disconnect the battery (usually). If all of the monitors havenât passed, then itâs quite likely the person selling it has reset the check engine light recently (may be trying to hide a problem), or thereâs a problem that isnât allowing the monitor to complete. Not a good sign. Walk away.
For reference, hereâs what a normal cranking sound should be: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v0h_Ygqox0
Hereâs what a low compression cylinder cranking sounds like. Itâs at about :55 secs :https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOghpmVhVng
If you listen closely, youâll hear the unsteady rhythm. Loss of compression is usually piston rings, valves, or head gasket. All costly. If the engine sounds funny when cranking, walk away.
If the car youâre looking at doesnât have a clear flood mode, you can remove the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment fuse box, which turns off the fuel pump. Most cars have one, but some donât. Some cars can be a real PITA to disable it from starting. Google the car youâre looking at with something like âYYYY Make Model clear floodâ or âYYYY Make Model disable fuel pumpâ and see if thereâs an easy way to achieve this.
Practice this beforehand on cars you have access to if possible to tune your ear to the sound. You can also do this periodically on your own car to see if any problems are arising.
Check the fluids. All of the fluids will have minimum/maximum marks. If fluids are low, someone has not been maintaining the car well, or it has developed a leak. Not a good sign. When checking the engine oil, it should range from clear to black. If it looks like chocolate milkshake, there is a major problem. RUN AWAY. Remember to check the oil with the engine off and on level ground. Some new cars donât have dipsticks (mainly European). If so, youâre SOL. Check the coolant in the reservoir. It should be green, pink, red, yellow, orange, blue, or purple, depending on manufacturer. If itâs rusty, walk away. Remove the radiator cap (only if the engine is cold) and look at the cap and in the radiator. If you see any rust or chunky/gritty brown stuff, walk away. If itâs just water, walk away (be careful here, Fordâs yellow coolant almost looks clear). Check the automatic transmission fluid. For the most part, it should be red, but sometimes amber or green. It may be black. Thatâs dirty. Not a deal breaker, but they havenât been keeping up on maintenance. It should not smell burnt, though. Thatâs bad. If it looks like strawberry milkshake, thatâs really bad. Also, remember that you should check the level on automatic transmissions while the engine is running in Park and after driving it and getting the transmission good and hot. The only exception is most Hondas. Thatâs checked after driving but with the engine off. Google it for the car you plan on looking at to make sure. Many new cars donât have a transmission dipsticks, so again, youâre SOL there.
Start the engine and listen for any noises. The engine should be cold. If itâs at operating temperature, the seller may have warmed it up to hide some cold start engine noises. Be wary. If it makes any noises, walk away.
Look for maintenance records. If it has consistent oil change records at an oil change place, at least theyâve been changing the oil. Unfortunately, oil change places only check easy profitable stuff. Itâs better than nothing, though. If the records are all at an independent shop, thatâs better. Indyâs will usually do a pretty thorough check up on the car when servicing it. If it has all dealer records, thatâs the holy grail. Dealers will find any nick nack thatâs wrong and upsell it. They also commonly donât do thorough diagnostics (this is an unfortunate effect of the way dealer shops operate). So if it needed repairs, on top of having new parts that needed replacing, it may have other new parts that it didnât even need. Shitty Independents fall into the latter as well, but for different reasons.
Check that everything works on the car. Check the A/C, the heater, the windows, the locks, the mirrors, the head/parking/brake lights, etc. If the owner neglected to fix obvious problems, what else did they decide not to fix?
Look under the hood and look for any hokey work. Zip ties, tape, broken plastic pieces, a battery that can move around if you push on it, wires hanging, etc. If it looks like unprofessional work has been done on what you can see, how bad is what you canât see?
How does the car look? Is it dirty, full of scratches, stained? If the owner cares so little about the interior/exterior, they probably have the same attitude towards the mechanical part of it.
Check the tires. Aside from general condition, do they all match? If all the tires are different, theyâre cheap/broke, and have probably cheaped out on a lot more than just tires. Lay your hand flat on the tire tread and light feel around the tires. If you feel a repeating pattern of flat spots/dips, you have suspension problems.
Try and stay away from used car dealers. Used car dealers get the majority of their cars from auctions. Most cars that go to auction are sent there by someone that doesnât want it, usually because there are problems. Not all, but most. New car dealers send trade-ins that are too old to put on their lot, and some of those are decent. However, the small used car dealers usually buy the bottom of the barrel cars at auction. Theyâll fix the minimum needed with the cheapest parts possible to maximize profit. Theyâll make it look pretty, though. Good chance youâre buying a polished turd.
Obviously, test drive the car. Drive it at different speeds up to highway speeds. Brake easy, brake hard. Find a crappy road or railroad tracks to drive over. Make sure there are no noises or vibrations. Get it good and warm. When youâre done, open the hood and take a good whiff. Make sure there are no strong smells (like burning fluids or other things). Look under the car and see if anything is dripping or the bottom of the engine is covered in fluids. Donât be alarmed if you see water dripping under the car at about the same area as the base of the windshield/firewall. If the A/C or defroster was on, that is just condensate from the A/C system. Touch it. If itâs not oily and looks/feels like water, it should be OK. If youâre test driving a manual car, the clutch engagement point should be somewhere in the middle of the clutch pedal travel. If itâs right at the top or right at the bottom, clutch repairs are in the near future.
Krotz93 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:03:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So what youâre going to want to do is look at the data on the engine computer. You want to make sure you connect to the computer using GENERIC OBD2 on your scanner. Different manufacturers will call these fuel trims by different names, and display the percentage in different ways. But if you connect using generic obd, itâs always going to use a standardized display format across all vehicles. Youâre going to see a long list of a bunch of different data. Scroll through until you find âshort term fuel trimâ and âlong term fuel trimâ
Short term fuel trim, depending on your scanner, may be displayed as: Short term fuel trim, STFT, ST, or ST%
Long term fuel trim may be displayed as: Long Term Fuel Trim, LTFT, LT, or LT%
Letâs assume your scanner uses the more common STFT and LTFT designation. Youâre going to see a number after the letters, so STFT1 and LTFT1. The number means the âbankâ or side of the engine. A 4 cylinder engine only has one âsideâ so youâll only see STFT1 and LTFT1. However, a V6 or V8 engine has two sides of the engine (3 or 4 cylinders on one side, and 3 or 4 cylinder on the other side, hence the V6 or V8). The computer controls fuel independently for each side of the engine, so youâll see a STFT1 and LTFT1 for one side of the engine, and STFT2 and LTFT2 for the other side. Donât be alarmed if youâre looking at a V6 or V8 engine and you only see STFT1 and LTFT1. Many late 90s cars and some early 2000s cars didnât control fuel separately for each side of the engine, and lumped both sides into one bank.
When looking at the short term and long term fuel trims, youâll notice the long term fuel trim number stays pretty steady, but the short term fuel trim number may change a lot. This is normal. The difference between short and long term fuel trims is not important, but what is important to note is that they are cumulative. So if STFT=4 and LTFT=3, then your total fuel trim is 7%. Letâs take a look at some examples on a V8:
STFT1 3 STFT2 6LTFT1 2 LTFT2 1
So the total fuel trim on bank 1 is 5% (3+2) and the total fuel trim on bank 2 is 7% (6+1). Each bank is below +/- 10%. Thatâs pretty good.
STFT1 -5 STFT2 3LTFT1 3 LTFT2 1
Bank 1 fuel trim is -2% (-5 +3) and bank 2 is 4% (3+1). Again, thatâs good.
STFT1 6 STFT2 7LTFT1 10 LTFT2 15
Bank 1 fuel trim is 16% (6+10) and bank 2 is 22% (7+15). Thatâs not good. Walk away from this one.
Check these numbers with the engine running at idle, and rev up the engine and hold it at about 2500rpms and check it there. Like I said, you may see the STFT number change pretty quickly, so just use the average of the numbers you see for that one. If you have someone with you, you can have them check the numbers while you drive as well.
Practice this on a car you have access to beforehand.
I would recommend running through these things, and any others you want to add, on your current car, your parentsâ cars, friendsâ cars, etc. Do it several times. Get comfortable in making these checks so that when youâre doing them in front of some stranger on their car, you wonât forget anything.
â
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EDIT- Forgot another tip regarding possible accident repairs. When you look under the hood, the color of the metal in the engine compartment area should be the same color as the car. If you see different colors or primer, it's had body repair. Also, if you look at the reflection in the car's exterior paint up close and at an angle, you'll notice that the reflection has a wavy pattern to it. That's called orange peel. Every car has it from the factory, except super high end cars. The orange peel pattern should be consistent all the way around the car. If the pattern changes in certain parts of the car, it's been repainted in that area. Good chance it had an accident. Another thing you can do is take a small magnet with you. You're going to place the magnet against the car in as many areas as you can. Make sure you wrap it in a microfiber towel or something soft so you don't scratch the car (it's not your car). The magnet should attract itself to the body and even stick to it. If there are spots where the magnet doesn't stick as strong or at all, there is body filler there. It's had an accident.
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EDIT2 - Fixed some formatting
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EDIT3 - Thanks for all the replies and awards. I'm glad people found this useful. But seriously, no more awards. Save your money for gas to return all those Christmas presents you don't want.
tofeman ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:46:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why is this removed?
shannonxtreme ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:51:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The post was removed. Is there any place where the post is preserved?
Mictlancayocoatl ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:16:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
removeddit
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:51:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Multiple places in this thread has had the post redone in the comments
tian2992 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 22:23:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Seriously why the fuck was this deleted :|
Sancho90 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:31:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Moderater not happy with it.
Xalistro ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:55:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Did it break any rules?
[deleted] ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
âDo you think itâll last for x years?â
How the fuck am I supposed to know? I can tell you the condition of the vehicle right now. I bought a vehicle 6 years ago that was in great shape. 6 months later it had a coolant leak in a bad spot and kept draining the heater core so I had no heat.... in Canada... in winter. Almost immediately after that the driver side window regulator broke and the window doesnât roll back up. About a year ago the cam position sensor broke.
Thereâs no way to tell. I did a really thorough check on everything. Thatâs just how it goes some times.
Tensor3 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 18:40:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
As someone who doesn't know cars, 90% of this post is completely in Chinese to me. Disconnect a fuel pump relay? Random acronyms everywhere? Practice/test these things on multiple other cars? Come on..
"Hey, random guy on craigslist, hold on for 3 hours while I google how to follow this reddit post"
Proofwritten ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This honestly. I know absolutely nothing about cars except they can drive, I got way more confused reading this than actually feeling it was helpful. I don't know any of these acronyms, I have no idea what these things mean or where I should even start to look at them.
At least I don't have a driver's license, so don't have to think about that for a while
cad908 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:10:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Even if you ignore the rest, the take-away is to get a potential purchase checked out by someone who does know how to inspect the vehicle.
Smitty6415 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:17:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To be fair he did say to try and practice at another car if you can.
Tensor3 ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 19:19:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know and that's kinda the problem. People who know nothing about cars arent the people who are reading manuals and practicing on multiple other cars. If they are, they arent people who dont know cars.
The entire post basically says, "If you don't know cars, learn them first"
ADelacour ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:37:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks a lot for this post! :))
Limp_Distribution ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:16:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great advice and a thorough list.
Thank you for posting.
793F ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:23:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Haven't had time to read it all yet but +1 for taking the time and effort.
Nice one.
jsusmno13 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:31:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow!! thank you man hope you have a wonderful new year!
Camel_Crush ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:32:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Amazing points that you brought up. Thank you!
raptumup ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:55:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So informative! Thank you!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome
JbinAz87 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:04:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great write up, the perfect car buying guide. Everything I ever do you touched on. But I was a drivability guy for 12 years. Nice job man.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks. My condolences for having to hear " what? It's only a < insert problem here>. Why does it cost so much to diagnose?" for 12 years.
JbinAz87 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:35:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Story of my auto career. I also did electrical Diag, install and harness repairs. Rarely could I charge my actual hours on a job. Thatâs also why I do industrial and chiller work now.
Madmanslim ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:04:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The hero we all needed.
R8dernAshun ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:07:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you! Iâm saving up to buy my next car and I know some of these tips and learned more than a few more from your post. Awesome work my guy!!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you sir. Good luck in your purchase
dackkorto1 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:10:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I feel like this post should be pinned
Hobbesian_Tackle ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:17:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Used Toyotas are fucking tanks. They will last for fucking ever if you change fluids appropriately.
pmococa ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very good read, although I live in Argentina and some points don't apply, the whole read was good and from now on I'm gonna have to be extra careful in that matter. Thank you very much!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:29:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
De nada amigo. Espero que esta informaciĂłn te ayude con tu prĂłxima compra.
pmococa ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Impresionante!
Childofdust90 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for this. Day late a dollar short for me. We bought a used equinox that had a recall that we missed by 1 week. Has about 110k miles on it and essentially needs a new engine, now we don't know what to do.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Let me guess, timing chain issues?
Childofdust90 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:12:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Granted I don't know much about cars I do know it's not a timing belt issue. It burns oil, like if I don't change the oil every 1500 miles the dip stick reads 0 oil. We have had the car for 6 years now and I'm afraid even after only 110k it probably doesn't have much left in it.
Zoso1973 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:31:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Call and talk to corporate services. We have an Altima and the CVT transmission went. Looked online and they had doubled the warranty to 120,000 miles For the transmission. Cars included were like 2005 to 2010 and ours was a 2011. I called and complained and said our should be included because itâs the same exact transmission. They reviewed our case and gave us the transmission at no cost as long as we payed for the installation. Itâs always worth making a phone call and checking it out
wreddite ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:18:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you bought it from/took it to a dealer who informed you that you were one week out from the recall fixing the issue, I'd try negotiating with them (demand they fix the issue or refund the same). If they don't, I'd send a 'letter of demand' outlining my concerns (very succinctly and matter of fact, not complaining or whiny) to the dealership and the car brand's head office in your country (scanned and sent via email so you have a record that it arrived, and of following correspondence).
If you do this firmly but respectfully threre's a good chance they'll come to the party. In this day and age of internet, social media and outrage culture, businesses don't want to risk damage to their brand (but don't threaten or imply that you would do this to them, that would be blackmail and weakens your position). I did this a couple of years ago with a dealership for a major international brand. They provided a refund check within 3 days, and asked that I sign a non-disclosure agreement, which I was happy to do as I got my money back.
Don't let car dealers walk all over you. They rely on their confidence and gambling that you don't know how to stand up to them. But you have more power than you realise in this situation.
If you do write a letter of demand, make sure you write a history/chronology of dates: purchase, issues with car, dates you discussed this and their response etc. Keep the letter formal and professional, not emotional. And quote any relevant provisions from local/national laws. Your country will probably have consumer protection legislation that would be relevant...
Relevant questions to make an argument: How long ago did you purchase the car? And we're you informed in writing of the recall? (Car brands/dealers are exported to maintain records of ownership and inform the current owner in writing of statutory recall and final dates...)
Tyrana-suarez_Rex ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:34:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You should add links to RepairPal and CarComplaints. Those are crazy good resources for research. Every used car will have problems but you can minimize your chances of have a critical problem by researching which models and gens of cars have major problems.
For example 7th gen Honda Civic had a bad engine failure problem on the later models (06-07) iirc but the 8th gen Honda sorted it out if you had a date code after a certain date. That's how I found my 09 and I've had very very minimal problems.
08 Subaru Forester might be one of the most reliable cars on the road too. If I could recommend one used car it would be that, closely followed by my civic.
realitybites365 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:37:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Whatâs your experience w/carfax?
Gdmdsd ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not reliable, but better than nothing.
realitybites365 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:27:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâve used the info before when interviewing the seller, to see if theyâre lying about the car to establish a baseline...
Gdmdsd ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not everything is reported to Carfax. Its a decent point of reference, but leaves context out. I could have a shopping cart ding my car in a walmart parking lot, get insurance to pay for it, and itâll show up on Carfax as an accident and give no more information to a customer. Salesman donât religiously study carfaxes either. Its mainly about the features of the car, what repairs have been performed since the time the dealership acquired the car, title status, and the number of accidents/owners.
If you walk in with the carfax already, you probably know more about the history of the car than the salesman. Not sure what you gain from interviewing anyone to be honest.
Max_Demian ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any tips for selling a car with serious problems? Iâm talking a fuel rail repair that will cost the same as the KBB value of the car.
The car drives a bit sluggishly but has fortunately passed inspection. Canât keep it, not sure what my next steps should be.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:40:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just be honest with the problem. Expect to sell it at a discount. There are always home mechanics that are willing to buy something with a problem and fix it themselves to get a good deal.
zapatas_blood ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is like the worst guide for people that don't know anything about cars lol
It sounds like you do, and I do too, but I would not give this advice to someone like... my mom.
Abe-Solotely ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Still should do all this with certified pre-owned from the make's dealership?
_Russolini ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
1) post used car for reasonable price
2) keep rejecting offers (asking for more money etc) until you find someone who does this
3) get free mechanical diagnosis without having to do anything, then reject offer
/s
Seriously though, if you come to buy my reasonably priced 10 year old motor and start fucking with my fuse box and shit then I'm probably gonna tell you to fuck off haha. Like yeah check fluids, run the car, whatever but if you're like ah your bank 1 fuel trim is 16% and you're trying to lowball me bc of it, I have no idea what the fuck that means in relation to my motor. If you're that interested, get a pro to do it or pay for a full service and diagnostics/MOT first, don't waste people's time trying to play mechanic
candyline ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:14:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Donât forget to go behind the car and checkout brake lights or LED lights. I forgot to check those since it was broad daylight... 3 out of 4 were broken
KingdomOfDragonflies ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is fantastic. Saved. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
[deleted] ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:18:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
Gdmdsd ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A lien just means the vehicleâs been financed before. Salvaged titles typically come in an orange color. Look for the rebuilt tag on the title.
A title being in someone elseâs name often means theyâre selling the car for profit without wanting to pay taxes. Some states only allow you to sell a certain number of used cars without a dealer license. People make money this way and you benefit by not paying retail prices. Just make sure they have a bill of sale signed and notarized from the purchase.
SpinnyLarch ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:45:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey everyone hereâs a way better lpt for first time car buyers: pay $75 and take the car to a mechanic you trust for a once over before buying it. If the current owner/dealer wonât let you do that you donât want to buy from them anyway.
Chelonia_mydas ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:45:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Can I just pay you to come with me?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:37:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes. I require first class travel, though.
Chelonia_mydas ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:11:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As you should with that knowledge!
PegaArch ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This doesn't feel like tips for someone who knows nothing about cars. I feel exceptionally stupid atm. I don't think I should ever buy a used car.
ChicagoChurro ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. How generous and awesome of you to put together this long detailed list. Definitely will use it next time I purchase a new (err, used) car. Thank you! âşď¸
popolibo ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TL;DR: Walk away.
popolibo ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TL;DR: Walk away.
PaGawek ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:57:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Remember to ask about bringing the car to nearest service station if you want to buy a quite new one. The workers can easily check the electronics by plugging it in to their computer.
bhanch0the ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:00:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Anyone have a copy of the post since itâs been removed?
djangelic ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:01:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
bhanch0the ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Gracias
djangelic ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:02:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No problem
guythnick ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 21:06:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just replied a repost
morganlp88 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:01:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I read this before it was removed and thought it was very informative and helpful.
Why? D:
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
itiztv ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:10:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You've won our hearts and souls, now what's your location?
xaminmo ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:29:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Some of the things are a bit oversimplified. For instance, many cars have non-magnetic body panels (aluminum or plastic). Also, a hail dent that could not be pulled all the way is not the same as an accident.
This is a good checklist for people who have some experience and skill, or maybe a first round quick check. For the average buyer, they really should consider paying for an independent pre-buy inspection if they are going used or third party.
Bogmart ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:40:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Can anybody tell me what this was? It seems Iâm too late for the fun
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
bryantmakesprog ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:48:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So, uh, what happened here that ended up in a removal?
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
elbeanothesecond ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:50:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It got removed as I was reading it
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
cheesewhiz15 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 22:09:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
FFFFF!!! Another top post with blaring rewards removed. What the hell.
admiralspark ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
cheesewhiz15 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:37:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you
shesaid181 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:01:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Huh?! Thanks for putting all this together, but I think I'll just find myself a mechanic to date, lol
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 23:16:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm single and ready to mingle....
shesaid181 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What?! How dare you announce this publicly?!?! Now I may have to get rid of the competition...đđ
wogwai ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:25:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How do you do #2 if itâs a push to start
j_knolly ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:35:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes, how?
SanKazue ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:03:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Really wish OBD codes were more in a... I'm not sure how to even say it, simple way for the layman to understand? It's crazy how many people see a catalyst efficiency bellow threshold code and just immediately jump to oh its my "Cadillac convertible " -eye roll- or the emissions code that comes with a bad or removed gas cap. They start replacing the canister purge valve or all kinds of shit
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:09:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah unfortunately a lot of people (even some "technicians") don't realize that a code is just pointing you to the system that is having an issue. You still have to spend time diagnosing what actually failed so you don't replace the wrong thing.
SanKazue ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:17:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yea man. What's even worse is some mechanics DO know that but change unnecessary parts just to get more money
CokeRobot ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:04:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"Alexa! How do I upvote something on reddit more than once?!?"
Very very good advice here! As someone that friends turn to for car buying advice and help, this is all grade A content!
MY only additional thing I'd say with this, if you're in an area where the roads are salted in the winter, check for undercarriage rust. Superficial rust is fine, but if bits of the frame are rotting, that is a yikes on bikes.
I personally take a telescopic inspection mirror to look around the engine bay as sometimes used car lots will clean leaking oils off the engine block that you can easily see, but you might be able to tell if there's a fluid leak on a side that's not easily viewable. That, and it's always fun to see the look on the sales person's face of low key, "Is this guy for fucking real right now?"
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:08:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Luckily I live in CA, so that's not an issue. I do feel sorry for people that work in the business in those kinds of areas. Occasionally I'll get an east coast car in the shop, and I'll know it as soon as I lift it. Great, now this 2 hour job is going to take 4 hours. Where's the MAP torch?!
CokeRobot ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 02:21:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
*thousand yard stare
Ugh, for fucking real. My car used to be in Ohio for 9 years of its life and it managed to not be so terrible with rust but God damn are nuts and bolts around the undercarriage a fucking PITA.
Nimbulls ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:05:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I am going to be honest... I didn't make it past bullet point 1, but I respect the shit out of you for taking the time to post this.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:17:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's all good. Thanks. The content is obviously not everyone's idea of riveting reading material
lurk_but_dont_post ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:14:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The last two times I sold a car, I let the buyer (and their dad/wife or whomever came along with them as a defender) into my garage, which is neat and tidy, like my house. They later commented that if I kept my garage well, they assumed I also took acre of my vehicles and would not be have abused them.
Cheddar_Curtain ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:25:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm also a mechanic and while I commend the noble nature of what you're posting here you've gone way too far. You're trying to tell people how to diagnose fuel trim issues. This is way beyond of the scope of the average car buyer.
Life pro tip: Have a knowledgeable mechanic look over the car before you buy it. Don't show up with your new scanner and your Reddit bookmark for instructions thinking you'll be able to figure everything out.
therealmodellking ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 03:52:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
/r/RemindMeBot RemindMe! One Year
Contoss ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:20:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For someone who loves cars but doesn't own any, most stuff went over my head. I plan to buy my first (used) car in the next six months and frankly your post made me want aware of so many things I was not aware of to check or to know.
My plan was to pay a local mechanic a fee to go and check the car for me and ask the relevant questions. I would ask them to accompany me or just go by himself if they are ready to do that.
idk if thats a good idea anymore. Well I got 6-8months to think, thanks for the tips.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 04:37:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I think the best option is to have a professional look at it. That's a good idea on your part. My tips are for people that for some reason are not able to do that. I think taking him with you would the best route as he can show you what he's looking at and why it may be good or bad. You are likely to learn some valuable info.
Contoss ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:17:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for replying.
But do sellers and used car dealers like the buyer coming with a mechanic?
Also how safe is buying gel showrooms which sell used cars. (idk what's that called) like Toyoto car showroom near me sells used Toyota cars. Do I need to do all the checks there too or not required as its likely thoroughly checked and serviced isn't it?
Do you mind if I ask you some more questions? Answer at your ease no hurry.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:48:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If they don't like it, that's too bad. You're protecting your investment. Obviously, ask permission first, and don't start disassembling the car unless it's taken to a repair shop for the inspection (like pulling spark plugs out or something). Also, try and keep it as brief as you can. Don't sit there for an hour nit picking the car. A good mechanic should be able to get all the info he/she wants in well under a half an hour, plus a test drive.
Do you need to do it at a reputable dealer. Well, you shouldn't if they're reputable. But how extensive was their inspection? Ask to see the inspection report. If they're reputable they should have documentation on it. If there's stuff they didn't check, politely say "hey, good stuff here, but I really want to make sure that xyz is also in good working order. Can I have my mechanic take a look at this stuff?"
Ask away. I'm always willing to share knowledge.
bman214 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:59:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm saving this post and if it ever gets deleted I'll have to sue somebody. I'm not sure what for, but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.
AtlantaBagpiper ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:16:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Love it!! Thanks so much!!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:35:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
you're welcome.
thephantom1492 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:19:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Will probably be burried but here is some comments on this:
For Torque, check in the sensors for "Distance travelled since codes cleared". It should be an high value. This data indicate when the last trouble code got cleared. It may indicate that they are hiding a problem if the value is low. If you can, check before buying. Also, check for pending and history codes. Pending are faults that need to happen many times before being active. For example (that may not be true but shhh): excessive crank time. For some reasons, it can happen from time to time, so let's say the max crank time is 5 seconds. The first time it go pending. Will be automatically cleared after 3 successfull (within specs) starts. But if it don't clear and get triggered 3 times it goes active. This mean that there is most likelly a problem.
For the crank test, if you can't get it to go in clear flood mode and just crank, open the hood fusebox, look up for the fuel pump fuse or relay, pull it out. Now you can safelly crank and it won't start.
Cooling fluid. Whatever the color is, it should be of a good looking color. Yellow is really yellow. Green is really green. If the color look weird, it probably mean that an inapropriate coolant has been mixed or there is some contamination. Not good.
Some engine noises on some models are normal, but walk away. For example, some fuel injectors are known to be noisy. But that should be about the only noise you can hear!
For the tires, look at the threads of each tires. The wear should be even. If for example the inside of both front tires are worn out, that's most likelly an alignment issue, which may be the result of some worn out parts. It may not show up on the steering.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:40:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good points. Thanks for adding it to the discussion. As for the distance travelled PID, that one is good if it's available. Unfortunately many cars don't have that PID available.
RocksteadyNYC ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:49:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great advice, thanks!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:08:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
you're welcome.
solidon ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:08:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I am very thankful to you for your time and effort that you've invested in this. It is usefull AF and I really appreciate this. Probably going to summerize and write it down somewhere so I wll be prepared before going out there. This information probably worth more money than all these problems that I am going to run into.
Thank you again for that, saved it for later.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:12:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Glad you found it useful.
moto4sho ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:17:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm the guy my friends and family call to look at their used cars before a purchase and I want to thank you for taking the time to post this information. I hate seeing people get scammed out of their hard earned money.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:27:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. I hate scammers too. I especially hate having to give people the bad news that their new purchase has problems. One of our customers just brought his girlfirends Acura that she had just bought in for an inspection. The car had been in a front end collision (undisclosed of course). I could tell it was a DIY repair by someone that shouldn't be doing that kind of work. Radiator still leaking, electric fan assembly connected with one out of 4 bolts to the radiator, because it wasn't even from that model Acura. I even found Ford parts in there jury rigged to make it work! Bunch of other issues too. He said fix it all. $2500. Hadn't even own the car for 2 weeks.
bumrushthesystem ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:26:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One thing I'd add, from my own experience is this time I went for a second hand car, they wanted me to pay the deposit by cash or debit card.
I wanted to pay by credit card, but they tried and tried to convince me that was a bad idea using phrases like, oh you'll pay interest on that, or wow you must like paying double if using a credit card.
What you should know is this, if you pay by cash or debit card and the deal goes to shit, you ain't ever going to see that deposit again.
If you pay the deposit by credit card then you are covered and in most cases you'll get that deposit back because car dealers don't want to go up against credit card companies, which is why they'll always try and get you to pay the deposit by cash or debit card.
Only other thing I can think of if you so need to go to a dealer, always save up as much money in cash as possible. That way you hold something they want, so you are in a position to haggle.
I've rocked up many a time with big wads of cash and haggled the fuck out the dealer, got money off, parking sensors fitted and work done to the paint work to secure the sale.
kuhaylee ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 09:58:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bless you for this post. If I would have seen this buying my first car from someone, I could have avoided a LOT of stress in the long run.
Coming from someone who still doesn't know very much at all about cars, if you have questions and the person is hesitant to answer or defensive--nope the fuck out. Inspect all that you can and don't jump on the first running thing you find. I made this mistake and thankfully I bought a car in really good shape the second time around, but for first time buyers not buying from a dealership, know the issues you're signing up for with the car you buy.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:12:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah, unfortunately you're so hyped during your first car purchase that you get tunnel vision and throw being critical right out the window.
kuhaylee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:01:59 on January 26, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Exactly!
thewatch3 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 11:29:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A pre-purchase inspection saved me a ton of problems on a 2017 VW GTI with < 5000 miles. The car looked pristine but something felt a little off and since it was getting dark, I told dude Iâd be back the next day. Have to add that the sales guy kept saying theyâd done a ppi and everything looked GOOD!
Next day rolls around and I sneak the car out for an âextended test driveâ and head straight to the VW dealer a block away for a PPI. Glad I did!
There werenât any check engine lights on the dash but the codes pulled up by the ppi were 3-4 pages deep! The battery on this GTI had burst and had corroded whatever was around it as it leaked out to the ground. The car looked like shit once on a lift.
Took the car back and left without a word. If you bought a White 2017 VW GTI 6spd Plaid Interior in 2018 from a Toyota dealer in DFW you got fucked.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:57:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And this here, folks, is exactly why you have it inspected first.
Le_Monade_ ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 11:54:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
R u saying that lemons r bad...?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:54:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
only if u don't know how to make LeMonade
Sign_Thief ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 12:08:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm going to add a little bit more info:
After the test drive when the car is at full operating temp turn it off and start it back up after a few secs. If it has trouble starting or doesnât start donât touch it.
Further if you have a little magnet you can put it in places where the body line gaps are questionable (Meaning a repair was made possibly from an accident). If the magnet doesnât stick it means a repair was done or the body panel is aluminum. (You can also knock on the car with your hand of a questionable area and if the pitch changes the metal isnât consistent and a repair was made). Having a car repaired is fine but a lot of shady repairs over rust are made and cars can rust from the inside out of this without you ever knowing.
One more thing which is the most important imo is on a test drive donât be scared to give it some gas. Itâs super important to have power consistently so beat on it a bit. If the vehicle feels sluggish it might be down a cylinder for some reason.
Good luck with your purchases! Iâve bought only one car from the dealer and Iâll never do it again, buying cheap older used cars is better for the environment and also waayy better for the wallet.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also good tips. Thanks for adding them!
MomFromFL ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 15:56:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't know if you'll see my comment in the zillions ppl have made but many thx for all the time & trouble u went to. You have surely saved a lot of folks a lot of $$ and aggravation. We only buy used cars, we usually take to a mechanic (not always bc my hubby put himself thru college buying cars at the auction & reselling) but you present a lot of good ideas for an initial screen when u test drive.
I saved your write up to Google drive. You should write a book!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:46:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If it saves one person from making a mistake then it was worth the time.
MrBrilew ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:04:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You sir, deserve every single upvote and award you got for putting out such a comprehensive guide on buying used cars
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:46:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks!
Vekera ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 16:47:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One of the most helpful pieces of information i've read on reddit so far.
Thank you.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:44:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
Whitino ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 01:18:29 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As someone who is looking at buying a car in the near future, this thread was very timely. Thank you for sharing your insights, OP.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:55:47 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Hope you find an awesome car.
[deleted] ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 10:47:49 on December 31, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving this forever thanks!
cyansky1911 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:22:43 on January 19, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much, an absolute lifesaver. Iâve been so worried that I was gonna get scammed (just started looking for my first car), I saved this and I read through all of it thank you đđť
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:30:24 on January 20, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Good luck getting something nice.
[deleted] ¡ 5 points ¡ Posted at 17:12:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
StaniX ¡ 15 points ¡ Posted at 18:32:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Probably shouldn't buy a car that old if you know nothing about cars since everything that was on the road for that long is bound to need some things fixed.
SoulOfTheDragon ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This. Pretty much all cars that old are somewhat quirky regardless, so if you want pitch perfect lazy driving experience get a newer car.
Personally i get the cheapest shit that's ecological and in alright(ish) condition and fix it up as a daily.
StaniX ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:01:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There's also the fact that it really makes no sense to buy a car from pre 96 unless you're looking for something specific. Lots of reliable, decent cars from the early 2000s already hit rock bottom in terms of depreciation so why would you spend the same money on a car that's 10 years older?
Might as well get a 2004 Corolla instead of a 95 if they're both 1000 bucks, right?
SoulOfTheDragon ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:00:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
At that age buying car is based on it's condition. I'll take nice 1995 over rusted beated 2004 any day.
[deleted] ¡ -13 points ¡ Posted at 18:35:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
StaniX ¡ 12 points ¡ Posted at 18:37:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The OP is for people who know nothing about cars, that's what i was referencing. I wasn't talking about you, no need to get defensive.
destraight ¡ -12 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
i like to rescue puppies
trancefate ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not just poor, but also dumb and angry.
This guy will go far in life!
iekiko89 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:17:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Front brake pads are stupid easy so are O2 sensors so nothing to strut about
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 17:25:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well then just disregard the scanner stuff. Some manufacturers implemented OBD as early as 1994. Most cars that old are already off the road, though. Most likely someone will be looking at a car that has OBD.
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:18:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My first car was a 92 and as far as I know she's still kicking. Definitely needs a more thorough inspection though, since the car itself won't tell you anything.
FizzyBeverage ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:33:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As far as you know how? Is it driving by your home regularly ?
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My dad's home. He sold it to our neighbor when I moved states.
sicusan ¡ -8 points ¡ Posted at 18:08:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My '66 is still on the road, I wanted it and it is my first car, please do not assume.. There are a lot of classics out there still and there are young and old who do want classic/vintage cars, they get love too(:
Bad___new ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:35:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Youâre whatâs known as an âoutlierâ
sicusan ¡ -2 points ¡ Posted at 18:47:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love learning about them and the mechanics of how things work, they aren't that bad of vehicles. If that means I'm an 'outlier' than so be it dude.
Bad___new ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 18:49:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can take that as a compliment or not, just stating a fact.
sicusan ¡ -1 points ¡ Posted at 18:58:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The statement didn't really tell me what it meant so I didn't know how to take it.. Aha. I do apologise. Tried to google it; "a person or thing differing from all other members of a particular group or set." I am extremely different and aware, thank you(:
Bad___new ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lol all good. I thought about linking a data set with an outlier but I thought that might have come across as snarky.
On this perfect post, wouldnât want to start anything! Op is a saint
sicusan ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nor was I trying to. Was just trying to point out that they are out there and still desirable by all. Op can take it as offense or not. I put a smile to hopefully show I meant nothing towards them but tone can't carry through text. Some don't apply but they're definitely good tips regardless of the vehicles age!
Tbh you would have thrown me in for a loop if you added a chart. I thought it was something that would be on Urban Dictionary, I've just never heard someone being referred to as that.
BROCKHAMPTOM ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not everything old is a classic đ
JohnnieCool ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey pal my 1976 Pinto is a beast /s
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 18:54:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm not assuming anything, nor am I poo pooing older cars. Heck, the first car I bought was a used 1982 Toyota Supra. I still have it. My dream car is a 1969 Mustang Fastback . I'm just saying that most of the cars on the road are less than 20 years old, so the chances of running into a pre OBD car are a lot less
kvng_stunner ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
All good, but if you're buying a car from the 70s, you probably love cars and have spent a lot of time working on them and you don't really need this LPT. If you do, then you're probably going to want to just have a mechanic look at it first.
sicusan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:36:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There would be too many tips to give to someone who wants one lol. I have a love of cars and learned a bit along the way, but most definitely yes, bring a mechanic you trust that's hopefully good. Tbh I've had problems with a few 'cause they didn't know the little things about older cars..
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:38:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To be fair, for someone who knows nothing about cars, Iâm not sure I would recommend a car thatâs now about 25 years old. Youâre talking about cars that are harder to find parts for and harder to diagnose problems for... and thatâs without even beginning to consider condition and history.
People who fall in love with a specific older model arenât your typical âpoint a to point b is all I care aboutâ buyer. When you love a car youâll eventually get to know every nook, cranny, nut, bolt, and vacuum line (son of a...) on your baby, and maintenance becomes more of a loving ritual than a dreaded expense you budget for. I have an older sports car with a turbocharger, and I can diagnose most problems by sound (or if her quirks change on me!)... but most people just see âoh wow whatâs the hole in the hood for?â đ¤ˇââď¸
sicusan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tbh I could see 80s/90s being harder to diagnose, idk when they really advanced on the harness or how that changed. For as old as my car is I actually had no problem facebook-group finding parts for my car(: Communities are SUPER helpful especially when there is a page of people selling parts, haha. You have to remember parts were the same for a bit just depends on when they advanced on -that- specific part to if there are more or few floating around. I'm just unfamiliar with the 80s/90s cars and finding parts. This sounds familiar, is that how I've now started to see 'er routine oil/rad fill ups? xD I live by a wall so I know exactly what your talking about, I'll hear my engine bounce back off the wall like an echo, I tune into it and if it changes hah. My bf is my mech and idk how he does it, but it's hilarious when we're both sitting there listening to any car run trying to describe the pitch(es) I'm hearing/talking about so he can find or explain it. We're both just sitting there making high/low pitch sound effects to each other..
Plethorius ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
80s cars aren't super bad as long as it's a more common car in my experience. I can still walk into Auto Zone and pick stuff up for my K10 without much trouble as long as it's not something weird. Everybody and their brother had one until probably a few years ago though. Most other stuff can be ordered easily and cheaply from Rock Auto, eBay, sometimes even Amazon.
Anything that's not really a wear item I can usually find at a swap meet or back rows of a car show and haggle a little. Of course there's always specialty outfits that deal with classics but they're usually exponentially more expensive than other options.
sicusan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:33:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes. I use Rock Auto. Some things aren't good, but over all a great company to use. AutoZone can be a bit or a miss. The one thing I didn't expect to have a problem finding was a radiator that would line up let alone fit, still haven't.. one that's in is probably for a 8cyl so close to the fan.. I keep a note book of everything we fix and when it gets fixed over the years, try to keep receipts. K10 nice! What's the sports car if you don't mind me asking? I've love seeing the different decades and models.
Sorry I'm not sure what you mean by specialty outfits?
Plethorius ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:19:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah Rock Auto has a lot of dirt cheap options that are cheap for a reason. I always try to go for their "daily driver" options or above, preferably something I've heard of. I don't daily drive it anymore but I like that truck, and I don't like doing the same repair twice when a cheap part breaks. Learned that lesson already lol.
Radiator is one thing I actually did have some trouble with too, but mostly on price. It sprung a pretty large leak when I was almost to work one day so I needed it ASAP, but everyone wanted $400+ for a 2-row instead of the 3-row that was in it. Finally found one that was 2 wide rows that's supposed to be the equivalent of a 3-row for $150 delivered same day so I could swap it in the parking lot and avoid a tow. Have you looked into having it repaired professionally? My dad says he's had it done before with good results, but I'm not sure about cost.
When I said specialty I meant like LMC Truck, they have tons of parts for restoration and repair but it's not cheap.
Not sure what you mean about a sports car, were you reading someone else's comment? Since you mentioned it though I'd love to have another old Camaro. I used to have an '84 and I miss it. Might go for '79-81 next time though, I love that body style.
sicusan ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:23:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Yes I did read someone else's comment, I'm not use to the format of reddit and seeing replies and users, aha. Sorry. Thank you for the lesson! Had to do a google search the difference between rows. I've only heard of a honey comb, cause my heater core is bad. The rad I put in cost about $300 and waited too long to return, went to a professional with the old one and it's about just as much as buying a new one so figured I'd just get the use out of it and wait. Doing a hell of a job cooling. xD
I think when I was in a '92 z28, looong front end. I swear late 70s is a mix of the strong lines and rounded edges on the body style it's so unique, but I love the look of the '84!
I weirdly want an oldd wagon, had me at rounded glass..
Edit: My trans cooling system was leaking into the radiator(viseversa?), so fluids were mixing. With how many holes and the general condition of it they were looking to replace the whole core which is why it would cost nearly as much.
A_Mac1998 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:40:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you're in the position of getting a car like that, you're likely to be taking good care of it/know what you're doing and don't need this post as much as someone looking for a car to commute in
Mr-Zero-Fucks ¡ 6 points ¡ Posted at 17:35:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is gold, but I don't think the delivery is efficient, you have enough content here for an awesome video, you know, easier to follow and understand, with practical examples.
Think about it, I've seen many on YouTube that don't cover this much in such a practical way.
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:54:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Maybe Iâm an old fart, but I prefer reading over watching a video. Youâre right that this would be a very informative and helpful video, but Iâm really glad itâs text!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:19:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I thought about making videos, but I just don't have that much free time.
Mr-Zero-Fucks ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:42:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
very understandable, still, thanks for sharing, it's truly useful.
gonnagetossed ¡ 4 points ¡ Posted at 17:59:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks! A good list.
Aside from the technical stuff, I'd emphasize the "gut" check. I've been lucky(?) I guess, in my used car purchases. One thing though was that I always had a good feeling about the car. And one of them isn't a beacon of curb appeal, lol. I went and looked at a car a few months back, decent prize, lower miles, and I didn't get a good feeling. I know there are naysayers, but it's really something I don't underestimate as I've aged.
I'd also say that when researching cars, find ones that you still see around. Some times there are just certain models that are sturdy, for whatever reason. If you're looking at a car that you've never heard of or seen, then it's probably better to move on. There are exceptions, but..... Even if you don't think you know so much, as you research over the net, you'll begin to see and notice more and more, before you even go the lot.
Lastly, and this is subjective, but I heard a financial dude say this. If you finance a used car, it shouldn't be more than 48 months. I think it's a good guide generally, for ones own bottom line anyway.
Bear_faced ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When I told my mechanic I was considering buying a Volvo station wagon but it had 110k miles on it he told me âDonât worry about it. Theyâre built like tanks, Iâd bet on a Volvo to hit 250k any day.â The old girl is still going strong and the only thing it ever needs is oil changes and tires. Dealers will tell you anything to make a sale, mechanics know which makes and models are constantly dying in their shop and which are inexplicably still running a generation later.
carbonated_turtle ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:44:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I get that you're a mechanic, but you're assuming people have WAY more car knowledge than anyone does. Most people probably have no clue how to operate an OBD scanner and wouldn't know the first thing to do with one if they bought it. The average driver knows absolutely nothing about how their car operates, and other than pumping gas, they're not going to be able to do much else to them.
the_fonz97 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:37:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks!!! Great advice
Tovi7 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:03:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Am not planning on buying a car soon, but still enjoyed reading through your post. Great tips. Thanks!
biggityboss ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:08:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is extremely useful information. Thank you.
FindingKeeping ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:11:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for writing in depth guide. Will read in free time
cunninglinguist32557 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:11:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I wish I'd read this before buying a lemon this summer.
SatanicSphincter ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:15:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man, this is helpful. Thank you for spending time on this post!
greaseyknight ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:16:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Only thing I can add is a suggestion to figure our why the seller is selling the vehicle and if they are being honest about it. For example, "I got a new car" and they got something roughly equivalent to what they are selling, it's likely they are dumping it because they have problems. Don't trust them, but it helps to get a read on the seller. I've walked on slimy private parties and bought from a mostly honest used car salesman who was curbstoning a trade from the dealership he worked at. Make sure the vehicle and paperwork match the story they are telling you.
Amelaclya1 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:17:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you! My step father is a mechanic, so he used to inspect the cars for everyone in our family before we buy. But I moved super far away and that's no longer an option so I have been putting off car shopping out of fear I would screw myself out of thousands of dollars.
nanalaan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:19:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Reading this reminded me that my truck has rust stains under the chassis and my oxygen sensor might be fucked
Purpl3BananaMan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:20:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another thing you can do is go check out usedfirst.com. It shows deprecation for the make and model you are looking for. A pretty great tool for getting the most of your used vehicle.
Darren_heat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saves for later. Big thank you.
SIGRemedy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:21:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy crap. Iâve spent my life around cars, Iâve worked in automotive parts and repair for several years, too.. youâve taught me some seriously good tricks and some information about my own car. God bless you, that write-up is amazing!
...also now I know why my station wagon is a real PITA to start in the mornings, with that compression test trick. The weekend fun car and the wifeâs new car are a steady âduh duh duh duhâ when they start, but the wagon is âduh duh DUH duhâ... and I bet you dollars to donuts thatâs an early warning that the coil pack is going out on it (again). That car fries one cylinder in its coil pack randomly, like... blows the coil for the cylinder out. In chunks.
nginx_ngnix ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:22:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Don't nearly all OBD codes pop-up dashboard lights?
If the dealer clears those can you still see it on an OBD app?
SIGRemedy ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No OP, but codes go through âstagesâ. The first stage is that itâll pop up a light and hold the code in memory. If you keep driving the car and itâs a severe enough issue, it will enter the next stage of âstoringâ the code. Then, even if the code and check engine light clear, the âstoredâ code remains. Most code readers can still clear stored AND regular codes though. So, if you use the app and see âstoredâ codes, thatâs a thing that wasnât working that hasnât triggered the error again lately. Recently replaced parts and intermittent problems (oxygen sensors going bad, for instance) usually live in storage.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:10:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Most do, but some don't. Also, on some codes, if the computer hasn't seen the issue in a while it will turn the check engine light back off.
If the codes have been erased there is no way to know what they were. However, if you check the monitors and they are not all set, then you have a good suspicion that it was cleared recently. Some of the monitors set pretty quickly after you clear it, but others take a while. For example, the EVAP monitor normally takes a few days and a bunch of miles to complete
Gdmdsd ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:57:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This may just be coincidence, but Iâve found EVAP monitor clears rather quickly if youâre driving with at least 3/4 of the gas tank full and go at speeds under 60 mph.
hellomynameis_satan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:23:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is any of this stuff not applicable to a diesel truck?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:31:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Probably. I don't work on diesels so hopefully someone more experienced with them will chime in.
DoctorStrangeBlood ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:26:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome advice. Would you consider making this into a video? I'm sure you'll get a lot more exposure and help a lot more people.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 19:13:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I thought about making videos. Unfortunately I just don't have time. Videos are super helpful though. There are times even I'm on YouTube looking something up that's not covered in the factory repair information. Many times it's to figure out how to remove door panels. All of the Fasteners are plastic and hidden and it is easy to break something if you don't know where they are and where you're supposed to push, pull, twist, Etc.
LoveBeefAndHeLovesMe ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:26:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is great! Saving for my 16 yrs old.....she is going to need all of the help she can get when she leaves the nest. Thank you so much for putting this together!
PhillipJGuy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:28:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To add to this, have them start the car and watch what comes out of that tailpipe
aleons00 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:30:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Question about the fuel trim. I live at a very high altitude and would think the fuel trim would be necessary even on a well running car? If so should my tolerance just be wider (ok with up to 15-20 instead of 10)?
Great write up. Like others Iâm not looking to buy a car but still read the hole thing and saved it for later.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Almost all modern cars have altitude compensation to make up for changes in altitude. Usually it's by way of a pressure sensor but there are other strategies as well. The fuel trim stuff still applies at any altitude. The only time it would not apply is if your started your car at one altitude and then did the check at another altitude without shutting the car off. Some cars only run the compensation at startup.
aleons00 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:36:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Exactly what I was wondering! Thanks for answering!
_PPBottle ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:30:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Probably has to do to the region you are in, but would be nice for some tips for non injection based, pre ECU cars. Where I'm from we still a lot of these around
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:30:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
These are important. The inspection is most important. I am 25,000 deep on a truck that died 43 days into owning it and am now fighting with the dealership to take it back due to electrical issues. And of course the warranty that I bought with the truck is powertrain only.
SnazzyFustilarian ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:31:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Could OP add some tips on doing these checks safely?
punkrawkisneat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:34:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Growing up my dad's best friend was a mechanic and owned a repair shop. I'll never forget being 17, and test driving some guy's used car and pulling into his shop. He put it up on the lift and showed me every issue the car had.
The owner of the car was with me, and as we pulled away it was super quiet compared to the drive up there. He knew he lost a sale.
Jeheh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:34:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I used to work at an independent shop and did a lot or what we call pre purchase inspections. It took me about an 1 1/2 to get a good rundown on the car and go over front to back. Honestly I was brutal ( I didnât beat on the car I was just nit picky and brutally honest) and the people paying the â125 were extremely greatful and I feel got their moneyâs worth. On more than a few occasions I didnât get the car in the shop and and just a visual was enough to say no and had customers come back and drop off a tip or a 6 pack for saving them thousands on a lemon.
Bottom line. Itâs ok not to know what to look for just find a shop you can trust and tell them you want a prepurchase inspection and any good shop that specializes in the car you are buying will happily do it. Itâs the best money you will spend.
To the OP. Nice write up BTW.
buckwheatho ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:35:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You are my new favorite person.
F4ultyL0g1c ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:35:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So t forget about checking panel gaps, as this will clue you on to an accident the vehicle may have been in that didnât get reported.
This video shows it well: https://youtu.be/Ec--OLGkmUs
LengthyNIPPLE ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:36:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I wish this post were a YouTube video
fluffymanchild ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:37:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A good website is carcomplaints. Check out how many problems that make and year has had.
La_Lanterne_Rouge ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:37:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As a former auto mechanic, I approve this post.
lazerlandb ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:38:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
how to crank engine on stupid push start cars? who the fuck thought it was a good idea to have a key with a battery? what the fuck was wrong with turning a goddamn key? it worked perfectly. why do we have to complicate everything for the sake of some semblance of technological progress. if it aint broke don't fucking fix it. and don't get me started on touch screen consoles in cars.
devilpants ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Push Button start is older than key start but do your complaining.
lazerlandb ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Come again?
A smart key is an electronic access and authorization system that is available either as standard equipment, or as an option in several car designs. It was first developed by Siemens in 1995 and introduced by Mercedes-Benz under the name "Key-less Go" in 1998 on the W220 S-Class, after the design patent was filed by Daimler-Benz on May 17, 1997
bcredeur97 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:38:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Recently bought a salvage titled 120k mile 2004 civic (manual trans because the autos on these break) for commuting.
Great car if you work on your own cars.
Transmission goes out? Eh pick up a used one thatâs $500-700
Engine explodes? $500-700
Misc interior bits broken? Get them from a junkyard for $20 here and there
Perfect commuter for me. Wonât cost me much to keep running no matter what happens to it. And gets almost 40mpg on my mostly highway commute (which is very long)
But this only applies if you are comfortable working on your own stuff. I also have a second car. (an â02 Miata Iâve had since college)
Tools are also a one time cost, and since I donât need them for work everyday I can get away with somewhat cheaper tools (I usually go with husky stuff from Home Depot)
I spent about $500 when I first got it replacing timing belt/wp, radiator, misc hoses and things.
I put good synthetic oil in it and change it regularly.
Some cheap cars are really under-appreciated and truly âall you needâ.
Also all of my coworkers drive new cars. I meanwhile am younger than all of them and i bought a house before them. I also have a pile of cash in the bank that can replace this car in an instant if I needed to.
Now it would be nice to have leather seats, luxurious carpets, a quieter car, and nice infotainment. But I mean... Iâm 22, that can wait till Iâm 30 when I have waaaaay more money right?
No one really cares about what you drive either :)
rabies3000 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:39:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check to make sure the locks work. I speak from experience. 3 doors lock, one unlockable and sounds the alarm.
gallon-of-vinegar ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:41:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just a normal guy here but Iâd also like to add something. Ask your trusted mechanic if they have any customers looking to sell their used cars. My current car was being sold by another customer of my mechanic. Not only did I not have to look very hard, I was sold a car at a reasonable price that MY MECHANIC HAD MAINTAINED for the entirety of its life.
WcCannons ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:41:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I would add to all of this: check the car title for it's state of registration. Don't by cars from the rust belt if you can. Areas of the country that salt their roads for snow absolutely wreak havoc on the underside of cars.
It's just extra wear and damage you won't have on a car from say California or Florida.
famedmimic ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not always true. My car has rust on the bottoms of the doors from salt but there is no rust on the frame or underneath the car at all somehow. I drive a 98 durango so it's not like it's brand new.
VectorB ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:41:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is there an OBD app you recommend?
SoulOfTheDragon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not op, but i use "Car scanner" on my android phone. I So far no complains. I used the popular "torque" app before, but it only gave fraction of the i get from that other app.
SoulOfTheDragon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not op, but i use "Car scanner" on my android phone. I So far no complains. I used the popular "torque" app before, but it only gave fraction of the i get from that other app.
SoulOfTheDragon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not op, but i use "Car scanner" on my android phone. I So far no complains. I used the popular "torque" app before, but it only gave fraction of the i get from that other app.
KTMee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:45:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks OP.
Also avoid anyone who can't coherently tell basic things about the car. I don't know, I don't remember, I've lost service reports - either they didn't take care of the car or are hiding something.
People might not know technical details themselves, but then the should know the last time car was at service and keep records, that tell next service date and scheduled maintenance.
The_RTV ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:45:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This short video does a pretty good job of telling you what to check on a used car.
bishkek312 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:46:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can also easily tell if it's been rear ended by opening the trunk and lifting the carpet.
manmathb ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:48:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks!! I was actually searching for this exactly.
PyroAssassin573 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:49:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. An actual LPT. Neat.
ohyeaoksure ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:50:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I would also add don't buy a car at night and avoid red cars.
Dat_name_doe2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:50:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is really good info but I donât have one question. Where I live we have something called an NCT, itâs essentially a total car check done by a mechanic to see if a car is road worthy. Itâs done every year and itâs illegal to drive without one. Does this happen in America?
user49459505950 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It depends on where you live, every state has different laws for registration renewal.
Hyperrnovva ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:50:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you. This is great input.
May I ask, what do you think about program cars? Cars rented or leased?
Good idea?
DawsonHelms ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:51:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Might also want to add that if a panel has been repainted (rust, accident, etc... Not good at any rate) you can feel the difference. If you run your finger along a gap in between panels, if you feel your finger dragging on one side but not the other, it has been repainted. New paint is "more grippy" than worn paint.
This isn't a make or break point, but this along with other signs (such as inconsistent tire wear) are indicators of a wreck that the seller may or may not be telling you about.
Nopengnogain ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:51:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice post. Saved!
llama_king99 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:52:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not a major one, but if you care about cosmetics, donât buy a wet car. The water hides any scratches, big or small.
SuzieSnorkel ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
To clarify why milkshake oil is bad, thats oil and water or coolant mixing together. Not good.
reyean ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:53:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So many step 1's!
richEC ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:54:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This excellent advice and I feel that you should have your own youtube channel. I have one comment, though. Also asking for advice. 93 chev Astro 4.3. 150,000 miles/200,000 kms. Good oil pressure, doesn't run hot, no noise at start-up (like low-pitched rod knock). But after it's warmed up, about 15 minutes of drive time I hear a "bottom end" noise coming out of the oil pan. With my contact probe stethoscope the noise is definitely resonating from inside the oil pan. I disabled the ignition, each cylinder at a time, but the noise didn't change. I checked crank end-play, tried 15w40, and now I'm stumped. I've read that piston-slap might be an issue.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:45:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hard to say without hearing it too. Piston slap should diminish as the engine warms up, as the Piston will be expanding from heat and have less wobble in the cylinder. Disabling each cylinder is a good way to rule out rod knock, though not always 100%. It could be a wrist pin. One thing I like to do if I am somewhat stumped but suspect a rod or wrist pin is to pull the spark plugs from the motor. Stick a long quarter inch extension into the spark plug hole. Don't use a screwdriver you may damage the piston. Rotate the engine and watch the extension. As the Piston is traveling downward, stop a little bit before you reach bottom dead center. Now push down on the top of the cylinder with the extension. If anything moves, you have found your problem.
richEC ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:09:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's awesome advice! My next step was to drop the pan and wiggle stuff around but this is solid advice. Thank you for your time :)
Sreyz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:55:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any tips for selling a used car?
tinybeautiful ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:57:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Adding that the carfax report is also really important. SO had them run for the first car I was looking at and it said the car had come from up north in eastern us. That was a deal-breaker for him. The salt and snow are really hard on cars and can cause things to break down sooner than they should. Better bet to get a car that was only locally owned or from further south. While I knew the carfax would show any prior damage or issues, Iâd never thought about where it may have come from. Second car they offered was a perfect fit and even the color I wanted. :)
WinchesterSipps ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:57:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
holy crap this is an incredible post
DiosMiosGringo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:58:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for the tips OP
Akbarrrr ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:58:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What are some regular maintenance things I should be doing besides oil/tires? Seeing all this stuff makes me worried I should be checking this stuff.
ImPretendingToCare ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:59:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I will pay you if you make a clear cut to the point video of all these steps in action.
lowlife9 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:00:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My grandfather recently bought a 2008 Nissan Rouge from a used car dealer and the transmission went out literally the very next day. There is no way the car wouldn't have had a CEL light on while test driving unless the car dealer purposely cleared the codes. Luckily it was under warranty and he got a new transmission, either way my state does have lemon laws.
BubbaChanel ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My bf just got a used van off Craigslist. When I asked if his mechanic had taken a look at it, he said, âI think I know my way around under a hoodâ. He brought it by the mechanic after purchase on Monday & it needed bearings. $600. Yesterday, 3 hours from home, a caliper locked up. $900 for new front brakes. He paid $3450, then a couple hundred for tax and tags, and now another $1500. My tongue is raw from biting it.
makeit95again ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This guy cars. But also, this guy Milk Shakes.
riheeheechie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:01:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So much information. Thanks for sharing, it will definitely be helpful!
Gluteuz-Maximus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:02:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Look in the engine bay and check the screw for holding body panels are all the same color. They often have the same color as the body panel but if the paint on there is scraped off in the screw head, it means it was removed before. Ask why. They might have had an accident they try to cover up
slugpet3000 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:02:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah I'm saving this post!
orbital ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:02:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also look under car! Trace muffler to exhaust manifold, look for exhaust leaks (black smear jetting away from exhaust line) these can be expensive to fix and can also block passing emissions test.
rodolink ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Damn this is great i wish i knew all this before. Now i can at least check my car is in good condition. Thanks good sir.
ohimemberrr ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any tips for selling my used car?
2011 Altima with 102k thousand miles. I took very good care of it & it has a brand new transmission!
xDeadxMemex ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:03:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I was thinking of buying a car soon, this is very helpful, thanks
MoreKale ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:04:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
my friend really needed this post.. they purchased a used cadillac SUV for a âhelluva good dealâ after their car had been totalled â ended up paying $$$ for repairs that costed more than the vehicle itself... couldâve used that money towards a new and working vehicle.
MikeWrangles ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:04:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Usually have the seller bring the car to where Iâve gotten work done before, had them look at it and tell me if itâs a good deal.
If it needs tires or brakes Iâll buy it on the spot and have the shop do the work. Any red flags I send them on there way.
Costs me $50 cash but worth it imho.
myxtrm ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:04:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just commenting so I can circle back to this post.
Whoa_Bundy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:05:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is fantastic ! Thanks!
xesus2019 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:05:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There is something wrong with the world if DON'T TRUST THE SELLER and performing twelve bits of technical obscure complicated tricks that only an auto mechanic would know, is the best way to buy a used car.
Devillecturbon ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 19:18:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Most of the significant issues humanity is facing today are because of cars. They should be banned.
xesus2019 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:27:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
But how else can I travel fifteen miles in ten minutes?!?
cb11acd ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Possibly to late for anyone to see but in the UK you can also check the MOT history on the government website. See if there are advisories etc
helix400 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:06:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check the vehicle model's history through a site like carcomplaints.com.
You can quickly get a feel which major issues you need to watch for on that car.
I followed almost everything on OP's list and ended up with a lemon. I went with a Toyota due to perceived reliability (and had a couple mechanics look it over). Turns out that Toyota occasionally makes lemons too. Toyota had a bad engine design which they used on several models where the piston rings would get stuck around 50K, the car would burn oil fast, and the engine would die around 100K. Had I checked that car's history, I would have seen that issue, had the mechanics check carefully for it, and would have caught it and avoided an expensive mistake.
forbiddenfruuit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:42:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What type of car did you get?
helix400 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:03:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
2001 Toyota Corolla. I had to junk it at 90K. The 1ZZFE engine had poorly designed oil drain plug holes in the pistons. The engineers seemed well aware, because the next generation engine tripled the number of oil drain holes and made them much bigger.
FuckMelnTheAssDaddy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:07:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a simpler trick: 1) find a mechanic you can trust 2) tell the car dealership that you want to take the car to your own mechanic for an inspection before buying. Pretty much all dealerships allow this - and if they donât, run. 3) have your mechanic take detailed notes on EVERYTHING and use those notes to decide whether to buy and negotiate price.
pointertochar ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:07:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Dude, you are awesome. A few thousand more like you and the world will suddenly be a better place.
pointertochar ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:08:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Can someone please make a printable version of this?
Whoevengivesafuck ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:08:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very cool, I knew about 5 words
J_edrington ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:08:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any advice for someone who might be looking for a used electric car? I will hopefully be getting a new to me Nissan leaf in the next few months, other than checking the battery capacity I don't know of anything else to check.
bonneville_777 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
OP youâre an angel, any advice of which OBD scanner to buy?
Homaosapian ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is incredibly well timed. Gf and I are looking for a used car now and we will both be studying this.
kipahuluhaole ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I will be needing this. Thank you!
SuperSm ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Jesus, might aswell buy a brand new car.
nonailsnodrag ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
having an accident does not mean the car is not good though, I bought a brand new Honda Odyssey off the lot and I have been rear ended twice. Not my fault obviously. I also just hit a deer. But in every case I had the car repaired at a honda certified repair shop and repaired with top of the line parts and this place is super meticulous about repairs. So its returned good as new each time. I would of course offer up this info to a potential buyer. And it would show up on car fax.
chiller2484 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:10:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a 99 explorer I'm trying to sell that I know needs a thermostat, has a small coolant leak (but doesn't run hot) and a small oil leak somewhere. It's been maintained well over the years but it's just not worth me keeping anymore. Anything I should make sure to tell a prospective buyer that has questions to keep them interested?
Two-toned_treats ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:10:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Before I bought my most recent car I paid for the pre vehicle inspection at an auto shop. 100% worth it! I wish I was car savvy enough to do it myself, but it put my mind at ease knowing I wasnât getting screwed by the dealership.
GhostRunner01 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:10:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm curious, what are the milkshake colors indicative of?
forbiddenfruuit ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Mixing fluids.. very bad
Jerodmasters ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:11:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why am I only seeing this now. Thanks for the tip anyway.
Srockzz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:11:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Interesting and useful. This is some useful advice, even if you do know cars. I didn't knew I could test compression like that!
theknockbox ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:12:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why not just have another professional look at it? This list seems like it has a lot of things an amateur may get wrong.
Imthejuggernautbitch ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:16:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not when thatâs almost 15% of the cost of the vehicle lol.
dylandgs ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:17:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm looking at a 2013 with 36k miles that has been auctioned 3 times, is that a red flag?
PatMeGron ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:17:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Curious about your advice on the clutch feel. I thought a biting point closer to the bottom indicates that it's been replaced recently? Based on a civic and a tsx I drove prior.
RestinNeo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:18:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I bought a car recently a buick 2003 model and was with someone a family friend who said I should trust him an dnothing was worng with the car. It is my first car. Couple weeks later I have to pay 600 to do a whole bunch of things to fix the brakes in the car. Never ever again am I buying a car without a mechanic checking it. I paid 3 grand and it had 145k miles. I'm going to drive it for a few more years hopefully till I can afford a better car. I hate leasing.
bluepooner25 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:19:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much!!
BergHeimDorf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:20:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for This!!!!
animethrowaway4404 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:20:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I want to know what documents/paperwork I should be getting from the seller so I am able to actually own the car. I'm in California if that makes a difference.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:21:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Also, do research about specific cars before you just blindly pick something in your price range. Some cars hold their value better than others and you learn why. Ask questions online, search around forums. You'll figure out the best car for your situation as well as what to look for as different years of vehicles have different common issues. Once you pick a car you want, scour the internet for people selling in your area. See what common prices are for different conditions and mileage. Don't be in a rush to get the first half decent one that comes your way, that's how people can get screwed. Ask the owner questions if they haven't answered them in the ad. How many owners has it had? What was it mainly used for, daily driving or fun? Do they have maintenance records? Why are they selling it? You'll not only get info on the vehicle itself but you'll figure out if the person selling knows much about vehicles.
Then, like the OP said, do your diligence when inspecting. If the seller doesn't want to answer questions or is rushing you, walk away. There will be others and maybe that person is just in a hurry or maybe it's a big red flag, either way you should not be rushed into making a purchase this big.
Even if you don't plan on doing much work on it yourself, knowing about how your vehicle works will save you money in the long run. Changing diff fluid is cheap and easy, rebuilding a diff isn't. You don't have to be a master mechanic to know how your vehicle runs, you just have to be willing to put some time into learning.
It blows my mind how many people are out there that have zero idea what is going on with their car and just fire it up, drive to work, hope for the best, and pay out the ass when it finally breaks. For most people, your vehicle is probably your most expensive possession and should be treated accordingly.
Edit: I also want to add that you should be doing regular inspections of your vehicle. Once a month I go through this checklist I made and I inspect easy but overlooked things. It only takes about 10 minutes and only requires your hands and a flashlight.
This is what I do for my older truck so it may not all be applicable for newer vehicles or it might be missing something but it's definitely worth giving your vehicle a once over regularly.
povertybicyclist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:22:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lmao holy shit I stopped reading at the first point. Practice using an ODB scanner prior to buying a used car?
Teannas ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:22:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you very much
This-is-BS ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:23:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So I'm guessing this doesn't count as a Driving Related lpt.
GusIsBoosted ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:23:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Only tip any one needs is.
Pay a mechanic to do a full inspection on site before purchase
vonBoomslang ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:23:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
... "who know nothing about cars" except these fifty different terms, noises and procedures.
nucu2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:24:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Go to a parking lot and park the car with one wheel elevated. Use a curbstone or whatever. Now go outside and check all clearance of the body. If the clearance are all over the place, the car maybe had an accident.
FatboyChuggins ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:26:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting to save, because my saved is a cluster fuck of interesting and not so interesting articles.
And this is extremely good information, I'm going to go buy an ODB scanner.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:42:28 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ol Dirty Bastard likes his privacy. Get an OBD scanner instead.
taschnewitz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:26:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
An easy, quick, and free check is to take a prospective new vehicle to a local parts store to have diagnostics codes read and to have a store employee verify the starting and charging systems are all in order.
Some sleezy sellers may remove the lightbulb that illuminates the Check Engine light and running the codes can verify that there are no issues present.
Having a quick starting and charging test will verify that the alternator and battery are in working order. If they aren't, you can leverage the replacement price into the selling price of the car.
TheExcitedTech ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:27:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
RemindMe! 3 months
jebuss_cripes ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:27:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing! My gf is looking for a car and neither of us know anything. I'll be trying some of these out thanks!
zoomonayamaha ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:28:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome man, Iâm not a mechanic, just an enthusiast, you list isnât just for people who know nothing, I def learned a few tips from this.
hotwingbias ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:28:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is an excellent write up, if not one of the most comprehensive and attainable to the average person I have ever seen. I consider myself very car savvy for someone who is not a mechanic, and i learned quite a bit from this. I have never heard of the magnet trick before! Cheers and thank you for putting in the time and effort to post this.
aquaman1417 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:28:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome breakdown! Very detailed. One thing I would add is that if you go over some bumps and you hear suspension noises like knocking or ticking this could be something as simple as bad sway bar bushings, control arm bushings or steering knuckles (all suspension related parts). Sometimes you might be able to negotiate a lower price and most of these items are relatively cheap to replace (although might need a wheel alignment afterwards). If you have basic tools and jacks you can save alot of money doing some of your own work, plus you get to see how everything works while you're under there.
sgong33 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:29:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for the exhaustive list! Can you expand on tip #10 âtry to avoid used car dealersâ? Is this the same for all used dealers including the big auto maker ones? (ie Toyotaâs bmws etc etc) or do you just mean the shady used car lots? Also how do you feel about places like Carmax? And any other tips on where to look for used cars?
Achtelnote ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:29:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Would've loved this 4 years ago. Still good to know, thanks.
poopyrug ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:30:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great tips I loved the YouTube video going into the different scanning capabilities. Never even knew that was a thing until today!
chronic_redditarded ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:30:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
full of cognitive bias
no wonder its at the top of reddit
Mythdefied ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:31:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
JFC
I love you, man
THE_FINAL_PAM_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:31:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Dude, this is great! Thank you!
hoxxxxx ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:32:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
i feel sooo sorry for whoever ends up with my mom's Impala. she traded it in a few months ago for a new car (at a new car dealer of course) and it is definitely going to auction. it looks great inside and out but is an absolute lemon piece of shit even tho it has relatively low miles for it's year.
some sad fuck is going to see a nice-looking Impala with low miles and pay triple what it's actually worth at one of those awful high-interest car lots.
also, your post made me nervous because of the car my gf has. i think it's on it's way out and we don't have enough for a decent replacement. i live in the rural midwest and if you don't have reliable transportation you are completely 100% fucked in every way you can imagine. going without a vehicle/license can ruin your life here.
nekkototoro ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I traded in my POS Peugeot for a used car at a Toyota dealership. Iâm starting to regret it because no one should be driving it and itâs better off for everyone for it to be in a scrap yard. Hopefully they will decide to take it apart for parts rather than putting a bandaid on it and selling it to an unsuspecting buyer
darkpassenger9 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:32:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Assuming you're talking about a private seller here and not a dealer, since you use the term "previous owner" often.
Is this true? Am I cheap / broke for buying tires a pair at a time (or sometimes individually), and sometimes buying different brands? Do people commonly buy all four tires new, from the same brand, at once?
Rappelling_Rapunzel ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:32:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Handy guide to buying a used car, thanks.
Shir0iKabocha ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:32:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If you are able to answer, there's something I've struggled with ever since my dad (he was always my mechanic) passed away.
How do I find a reputable, trustworthy repair shop?
I'm female, which doesn't help sometimes. I have a basic level of knowledge but not always enough to spot BS. (I'm not going to fall for brake light fluid replacement, but I wouldn't know if they're full of it with many things.)
I stopped going to the dealer because they're slower than cold molasses, and I had some bad experiences (a service advisor who didn't understand what oil weights were, for example).
Thank you so much for this post. I'll probably be shopping for a car in the next few years, and this will be invaluable.
PissedOnBible ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:32:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You've probably gotten a thousand or so similar comments by now but I had to.... Thank you. This is very helpful. I saved it and I'd imagine I reference it more than once in my lifetime. Happy new year and thanks. Sincerely
Edit - hundred or so?
notbobby125 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:33:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tip for making numerical lists on reddit: if you put 1. On a line, put a paragraph that, then put 2., reddit will change the 2. to a 1. for some stupid reason. Use 1) to avoid this issue.
logangrey123 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What does SOL mean?
momojojo23 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sh*t Out of Luck
Minecraft_Digger ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is way too long. Iâm not reading this. Can you make it in Tweet format
DrAnjaDick ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is really fantastic, and thoroughly organized information. Well written, concise and with a clear conversational style. This is what the Internet was meant to be.
Thank you so much for all this effort!
OorPancake ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Old UK tip when looking to buy from a private seller over the phone is to say that you are interested in buying 'the car they advertised'.
If they say 'which one', they're likely a trader with a high turnover, so a bit of extra caution is needed.
â
Good thing about the UK is that every MOT (yearly inspection) is available online, so you can see what it failed on and the 'advisories' it's had.
https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
If you need a reg, try MH55YHA (It's an old Honda Accord I had that's now been scrapped)
MetalNickA ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:34:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Number 2 is really hit or miss, Iâve owned 6 cars that are supposed to have a âclear flood modeâ but it never seems to work. A much better idea would be to pull the injector fuse.
markevens ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Protip, take the car to your own mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection.
Just pay a pro to look at your car. It will be well worth the money you pay them.
Infranto ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:35:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is an absolutely fantastic writeup, so obviously it'll be removed by the mods on this subreddit.
Jokes aside, thanks for taking the time to type this up.
McFuckhead ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:36:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For anyone still unsure this short video has a very comprehensive overview of what to do at a used car lot to inspect cars.
https://youtu.be/VunjAXgLXng
jbronin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I used to work at Carmax so I can elaborate a little on this. Carmax buys a lot of their cars at huge auctions. The cars they buy are usually former rentals or lease buybacks. They are usually around 2-3 years old so they are still fairly new and what they consider the sweet spot for their inventory.
Carmax also buys cars from individuals and as trade-ins. If any of the cars don't meet their standard (age, cost to repair, or cost to warranty) then they sell them at their own auction. The small car lots buy these cars. Sometimes they are good cars (Carmax employees have the opportunity to buy them before they hit the auction, and we bought a lot of them), but most are pretty terrible.
bluemoonlitgarden ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Milk shake bad, wa wa good. Got it ty
holliisneat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:37:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What are your thoughts are CarMax? Iâm looking to buy my dream car from them, but hesitant. It looks like itâs in good condition, but now Iâm weary because of reading this.
MHunty1966-3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:38:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice, informative list. Do you have any extra tips for motorcycles?
thafezz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:38:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great stuff OP.. Thanks for posting.
UncleSherwinsBitch ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:38:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TL;DR Be an expert and know everything about cars. Got it.
125RAILGUN ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:38:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Imma save this for when I go and buy a car. Thank you author.
WrinkledSuitPants ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:39:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Stay far far away from Enterprise Car Sales. I had to buy a vehicle that could fit me (6'8 350lbs), my wife, and 2 newborns. Couldn't afford a Yukon or Suburban but could afford a truck, bought a 2018 F150 XLT Super Crew for under $20k. I didn't take the time to inspect it and it always nagged me - truck was missing the rear door lock pulls, truck ("never smoked in") had cigarette burns in between the front seats, truck had unreported damage and wasn't fixed correctly, door handles didn't work when it was cold (wouldn't latch), AC system started smelly moldy, AND the windshield wiper control arm stopped working after 6 months of owning it.
I got it working and looking decent then traded that pos in for a new ram last month, got what I paid for it in trade in value. Owned it for less than 6 months.
MafiaBro ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Issue is you bought a ford
WrinkledSuitPants ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:47:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yep, first and last. I really didnt want a $600 truck payment for a tricked out ram (we own a jeep, charger r/t, owned another charger that we traded, and now a fully loaded ram 1500 bighorn). Should have just stayed with fca
grumboo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:39:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
i like the ''WAAA WAAA WA WAAA WAAA WAAA WA WAAA WAAA WAAA WA WAAA'' part
cebeezly82 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:30:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lol e too, especially because I am using a screen reader for the blind to read it. Sounds exceptionally funny
Chismoto ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much for this. I've bought used cars, I've bought new cars. I am not an expert. I have a guy that I bring them to. If I didn't have that guy I would have never bought a used car.
Berkel ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very nice thank you!
Axemic ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Applies to 20 year old cars only. I respect the post but it should say...when the car is old and cheap. Try use this shit on newer BMW's, they don't even have an oil check rod and engine is covered. You have to hold the break pedal to start it.
It is full of fiber and everything is computer based, check that. Go to the dealership, keys save all the info about the car. Not everyone knows that.
Unless, you want buy a 20 year old piece of shit, thist post is carbage.
He missed one tip, open the trunk and check under the covers if there is rust or different paint colour, then you know it was in a crash...front...harder to confirm.
He is right about shitty tires and a dirty car.
If you buy an old car, OP is 100% right.
b00st1n ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:40:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I would also get the front end checked. Probably easier to bring it to a shop to have that done. Most oil change places will do it for less than $20 around me. If a front end component breaks your tire will choose whichever direction it wants and can do a lot of damage.
sreynolds1 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:41:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What about selling a car
MacButtSex ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:41:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Some cars don't have metal body panels, and you need to account for that. For example the Jeep Cherokee, a lot of them have fiberglass hatches, so they aren't magnetic. Newer Ford mustang aren't metal body at all.
Also, when you are checking for mismatched paint, sometimes it isn't because of an accident, but rust repair, and that's acceptable. However, if there is rust repair on the body, you should 100% check the frame and underbody, because if there was body rust, there may be frame rust. If there are cracks in the frame, holes, chunks missing, just walk away. That's a mess you don't want.
skeupp ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:41:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow a real life professional tip. Not just some Karen telling us how she thinks we should do things
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:50:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't find this post acceptable. Where's your manager?
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:41:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:58:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When looking at data pids, you're basically looking at all the sensor inputs. The ECU is pretty smart, and will usually throw a code when a sensor gets out of spec. That being said, it does give a lot of leeway on some things. Like fuel trims. Every manufacturer is different, and off the top of my head I don't know where Nissan sits, but I think it won't throw a code until total fuel trims reach 25%. Anything over 10% tells me something is not running optimally. So if you periodically check fuel trims, you may see something pop up before the computer does.
Same goes for misfires. Some ECUs won't throw a code until they get into the thousands. Check the misfire history (you may have to use mode6 data) and see if any cylinders seem to be above the rest. It's normal for there to be some misfires, but if you see them reaching the hundreds, better start checking things out.
You can check the health of your oxygen sensors by watching their switching pattern. If they're hanging high or hanging low for too long, it's time to replace.
dootdooladootdoot ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:41:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What I learned here is Iâm not qualified to buy a used car.
CristianE36M3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm a professional mechanic and get asked about this all the time. Thank you OP, now I can just forward people this thread instead of mansplaining everything to them.
BrittyPie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you SO much. Wow.
treebalona123 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
PLEASE LISTEN TO THIS MAN.
I BOUGHT A CAR THAT HAD A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM.
A OBD II READER WOULD HAVE CAUGHT IT BUT THE ADRENALINE OF A NEW CAR TRUMPED EVERYTHING
NowWatt8 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:42:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great info for those wanting a traditional internal combustion engine (ICE) car.
For the eco-minded - you'll have a lot fewer maintenance headaches over the long term owning an electric vehicle (EV) or hybrid vehicle derivative.
Drive one. You and your pocketbook will be happier while contributing to a cleaner air environment.
MarcusTheAnimal ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Life pro tips should have a hall of fame. And this should be right near the top.
pahpah_pokerface ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saved for later, thanks!!
Hdrea_25 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is it worth it to buy a âcertified pre-ownedâ? Sorry if this was already answered too many comments to read through
nolongeracowboy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So you're telling me all the lights on my dash aren't additional cab lights? That soft amber glow from the dash indicates problems?
GroovingPict ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Really the only tip you need is right there in your opening paragraph: have a professional inspect it before buying it. Here in Norway we have NAF which is more or less the equivalent to your American AAA (so they probably offer something similar I would assume), and they offer a specific "pre-purchase inspection" wherein you take the car youre thinking of buying and they go over everything.
When I bought my current car, from a used car dealership I might add, I still took it to NAF to have it inspected first, and they uncovered some things that needed to be taken care of. They werent major things, but knowing that auto shops arent exactly cheap, it still wouldve cost a pretty penny to have fixed had I discovered them after buying. So with the list of potential problems, I took it back to the car dealership and they were happy to fix all of them before I bought it.
In the report by NAF they even mentioned such things like the paint job having uneven thicknesses in certain areas, meaning it had likely been in an accident and been fixed and repainted. (the factory coat is done by robots, so its thickness is much more even compared to what even the most skilled painter can do by hand). So they are very thorough, and the money saved on having the issues fixed before buying the car made up for the cost of the inspection many times over.
metalsploit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Learn to read tire date codes.
I've seen numerous "new" tires put on used cars by dealers that were over 5 years old.
How to Read Tire Date Codes
sicbandit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:43:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You deserve all the awards! Thank you kind and gracious person đ
alex-the-hero ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:44:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
u/potatoes-potatoes
Distractionaccount ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:45:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also coming from a car sales aspect. ALWAYS ASK FOR A CARFAX OR CARPROOF when shopping at a dirt lot or if the deals just too good to be true. I've seen to many people get burnt because of that. Also leads to possible future problems if mechs havent fixed things properly. You'd be surprised at what passes a required inspection.
grantrules ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:45:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
AutoZone will do a free ODB check for you, I'm pretty sure..
Distractionaccount ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also coming from a car sales aspect. ALWAYS ASK FOR A CARFAX OR CARPROOF when shopping at a dirt lot or if the deals just too good to be true. I've seen to many people get burnt because of that. Also leads to possible future problems if mechs havent fixed things properly. You'd be surprised at what passes a required inspection.
Sparky2121 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If my car goes WAA WAA WAA, isn't that a bad thing? Why would someone buy a car that's crying? The owners must've abused it.
SgtRL-3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is really handy!
Can I add my 2C, or rather 2p...As a Brit, most of our cars are manuals, and it's worth noting that regards clutch bite point, some cars (certainly the last one I had did anyway) have an automatically adjusted clutch. This ment that as the clutch wore out, the mechanism adjusted and kept the bite point at the same place. Also the bite point in that particular car (Peugeot) was very high.
Foulnut ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:46:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
very helpful, thanks
Zzyzzy_Zzyzzyson ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:47:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If there was ever a post that needed to be saved, this is it. Thank you!
hellogh35 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You say don't go to used car dealers. Where would you recommend looking for a used car?
Dand_89 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Might be worth mentioning in your post to visually check the inside of the tyre for any exposed wire before checking for the flat spots with their hand, just incase someone catches their hand on it.
WrongProcess ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Please please please make a YouTube video in which you go through all these checks with a good car and a terrible car!
guszoks ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My man. This is great
Frankenseth ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ugh, where were you two years ago?! I purchased an '08 Lexus IS 250 as my first car. I had problems within a few months.
I had to get the gas tank replaced because it started leaking if it was too full. I had to replace the brakes and calipers and rotors for all 4 wheels. The brakes were whatever, but when I tried to replace them I realized the calipers had fused due to rust and the rotors had been scratched up to hell. One of them was actually in two pieces. I am SO lucky nothing happened to me while driving that car. Learning how to make those repairs myself was the only thing I'm thankful for.
Of course, as soon as I finished repairing the wheels, the A/C went out. At that point I was fed up.
Unfortunately I had to roll about $2k of negative equity into my current car, but I haven't looked back since.
Phil_Phil_Connors ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:48:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Want to reiterate taking the test drive. Donât just take it on the route they want you to. Take it on a bumpy road and a place with lots of turns so you really get a feel for how it handles.
SecretPotatoChip ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One important thing your forgot to mention was to check the vin and the title. If the car has a salvage or rebuilt title, make sure you know what you're getting into. Don't pay much for the car then. Donut media made a great video on salvage cars. https://youtu.be/S7KhifVI840
For the vin, make sure that the vin in all of the locations match. The vin is located on the bottom right of the windshield, the driver's door jam, and maybe in some other places depending on the car. If the vins don't match, or they don't match the one on the title, the car was likely wrecked, stolen, or it's not the same car. You should probably walk away unless you can get it much much cheaper.
PizzaGuy420yolo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:49:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What is the point of not having too much trim?
Totomi2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
u/remindme! 5 years
Baudgee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If the car has aluminum panels (as many newer cars do, especially the hood) the magnet won't stick either.
CantReachKLR ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:50:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My best tip is that if you're buying a car search for a forum dedicated to that car and under the FAQ or pinned posts at the top there's typically a topic about common problems or at least the most common problem with the car.. Don't just focus on that but in addition to everything else.
Most big chain auto parts stores have OBD scan tools to rent for free FWIW.
I know alot about cars, have done everything including rebuild an engine but one thing I cannot fix is RUST. Never buy a rusty car. It makes working on the car 10x harder(every bolt is seized), all bearing/moving parts have more friction/fail prematurely, and once you have it.. You have it.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you. I work at a shop and people are always blasting dealers. Most dealers wonât sell you something that isnât broken. But theyâll all sell you something you may not necessarily need. Whereas all third party shops will always do the cheapest repair possible or no repair at all if they donât consider the issue to be a safety concern.
Itâs not that the dealer is trying to rip you off. Itâs that they simply ensure your vehicle is showroom quality instead of just barely keeping it running.
Digitek50 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:51:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great information, but I guess if you're looking at a cheap runaround for a few hundred bucks, you. Can expect there to be things wrong.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Constantly keep dibs on any universities near you. Foreign grad students about to graduate are often excellent targets to buy a used car from, because they'll often be desperate to leave the country ASAP and will need to ditch as many possessions as possible. If their visas are about to run out you can get a car from them at a great price.
Always avoid dealerships to the extent possible. Sure, it's more risk buying from an individual directly, but it can save you tons of money.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Constantly keep dibs on any universities near you. Foreign grad students about to graduate are often excellent targets to buy a used car from, because they'll often be desperate to leave the country ASAP and will need to ditch as many possessions as possible. If their visas are about to run out you can get a car from them at a great price.
Always avoid dealerships to the extent possible. Sure, it's more risk buying from an individual directly, but it can save you tons of money.
iamphook ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:52:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also a good advice for people who owns cars that they may or may not sell in the future: Keep your maintenance records and you can price your car a little higher then the market that does not have maintenance records.
chooseauniquename2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Buy Tesla instead?
ss0889 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
what strikes me is that these tips seem to be tailored towards buying a rather pricey used car. at those prices, would it not be a better idea to buy certified preowned from a dealer and have it come with the extended bumper to bumper warranty (like honda, for example)? or is that a rip off? I was under the impression that buying a 20-40K mile CPO honda/toyota was probably the best higher-priced used car purchase you can make.
what do you do if you're like DIRT poor? there are a lot of people on my fb that basically have 2K to spend on a car, and they'll put the absolute bare minimum legal required coverage on it, pay the 2k, and basically only plan on driving for a year or two before it dies. and then they repeat the process. if you do the math on it, even if you put a cheap oil (self-done oil change) and spend like 100 bucks a month on the minimal insurance, spending 2k in a year on the car comes out to wayyyyy less than financing a new car nowadays.
rinzler83 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I change the oil myself and never keep records. Who would believe them anyway. Whenever I buy a used car from a dealer or Craigslist I immediately change the oil. I don't care what the seller says.
Fuzzy_Nachos ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If it's on fire is it safe to purchase
foxfai ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:53:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love what you wrote, but I'll add some more to this.
Lights - check all the lights. Most of the time you are looking at the car during daylight. I found out later that my dash was out a few lights that suppose to light up the clock, the A/C button(of course check the AC too) etc. And they are a pain in the but to replace. Little things but when you can't see in the dark at night trying to fiddle around finding the button while driving, it will be a hassle.
Also cruise control. Not very important, but one of the things you might not check and it might not be working when you want to engage it for a long trip.
YouCalledSatan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:54:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My parents just got me a car and I asked how much research they did, they said they just googled âgood cars for teensâ hopefully I donât get a ton of problems but the car is nice :)
anunderdog ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:54:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't know where your shop is, but if it's anywhere near me I will bring my car to you every single time I needed a service!!! Thank you for posting this.
_banana_face_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:54:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Where do you get No1 from?
ColgateSensifoam ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:54:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Additional things to note:
If buying a car >10 years old, budget to replace: * handbrake * all four tires * any/all lambda/O2 sensors * headlights
These are all both important, and likely to fail
You'll also want the correct diagnostic/after-sales tool, be it VAGCOM, OPCOM, or another proprietary tool, they're usually ~$50, and enable you to enable extra features, reset service indicators and see more data
MagnanimousAnonymous ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:55:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Going to use this tips for checks on my own car, thanks!
tomytronics ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Missing the obvious but a quick and easy way to tell if the car was salvage from flooded area (like hurricane flood), and you can't access carfax history (ie no wifi, no cellular data or no smartphone) check under the dash for sand and dead clams. Also beware of air refresher, it's likely trying to mask something that swam in and died.
crazy-bisquit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you, Thank you , THANK YOU!!!!!
MattHarrey ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also if you take the number plate, put it into the MOT checker from the UK governments website. This will give you a list of the things a car has failed its MOT for or any advisorys it may have. This only applies to the UK
osirhc ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I recently bought a used (and at some level also abused) 2001 Audi A4 1.8T. By all accounts, this should have been a mistake, however, I just wanted a cheap city car that I didn't have to care about should someone give it a few love taps when parallel parking, and something I could work on to learn more about cars. Somehow, with a few trips to the junk yard and about $200 (a good portion of that was just on the damn G12 coolant these things need), the car has run relatively well in the few months I've had it and ~1500 miles I've put on it.
At risk of embarrassing myself, there's one thing I never thought to check because I didn't think I needed to, and I'll never make this mistake again. Check the damn lug nuts on all four wheels. Sounds silly, right? Why wouldn't a car have all its lugnuts on all four wheels? I drove this car over 1000 miles before taking one of the wheels off to check something. It was then that I realized the wheel had only 4 of the 5 lugs it was supposed to have. I then checked the rest of the wheels to discover two other wheels were also down one lug each, and one of the rear wheels was missing two. Out of 20 lugs the car should have had, it only had 15. Likely what happened was the previous owner had all the wheels off, misplaced all 5 lugs for one of the wheels, and purposely divided up the remaining 15 they had left to all four of the wheels, instead of paying a measly $10 for replacement lugs at Auto zone. It's terrifying to think how many highway miles I put on the car before realizing this. Luckily, my mistake wasn't catastrophic, but it certainly could have been.
ironcladfranklin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is great but what's better is to take it to a good mechanic and pay them to check it over. This has saved my thousands. One van had bad frame damage that wasn't reported and the dealer wouldn't fix it or drop the price. The van we bought had a leaky radiator and a water pump that was going. Got them repaired and payed the price we agreed on ( thereby saving at least $300 after the inspection)
tomytronics ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:56:55 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Missing the obvious but a quick and easy way to tell if the car was salvage from flooded area (like hurricane flood), and you can't access carfax history (ie no wifi, no cellular data or no smartphone) check under the dash for sand and dead clams. Also beware of air refresher, it's likely trying to mask something that swam in and died.
ElsasQueen ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:57:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Umm, what car dealer lets people drive cars off the lot before purchase to take it anywhere, let alone an auto shop? I've known no car dealer to do that.
ccrepitation ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:57:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for doing this.
hansblix666 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I looking to get a minivan around 10 grand. Everyone tells me to stay away from Chrysler/dodge but its the best bang 4 the buck compared to honda/Toyota.
Should I stay away from them?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:22:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes. Resale values are a good indicator of reliability
hansblix666 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:49:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Damnit thanks for the dose of reality.
purELy--fiLTh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
test
Sulako ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bless you for doing this
purELy--fiLTh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:58:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
test
purELy--fiLTh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
test
nicotiiine ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is pretty amazing but I thought most states have a lemon law? I live in mass and if you purchase a vehicle you have 30 days to get it inspected. If it has any issues that you do not want to deal with, the dealer has to provide full refund and take the vehicle back or something to that extent.
nobody_knows_im_a_pi ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's still a huge hassle, in comparison for a few bucks for an obd scanner. Those things are amazing and it's always nice to have it on board for some issues down the road.
gaving133 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Comment for return
Ensigncal ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:59:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much for putting the time to write this out!!!
Comrade_Witchhunt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is awesome. You should consider a blog or website with this info.
I'd gladly visit to read more like this because no one knows everything, and nothing beats the advice of an expert.
Articles about cars for people with NO car knowledge would be great.
Thanks for your time, I'll be saving this info!
OhSoWaymon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another thing about number 3. If you check the radiator cap and it seems brand new. It means the seller is trying to hide the chunky gritty brown stuff he was talking about. Walk away!
You can especially tell when the cap is super clean compared to the rest of the engine bay.
nekkototoro ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm getting a pre purchase inspection done on used a car Iâm interested because Iâd be useless at all this. Are there any issues that are âacceptableâ for a used car to have (I.e. you would still buy it even if it had those issues)?
ThePooksters ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:00:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know more than the average person when it comes to cars, and thereâs several things listed that Iâve never considered to check. This is a very detailed and informative guide, I recommend everyone save it and come back to it when it comes time to car shop.
purELy--fiLTh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
test
ThePooksters ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know more than the average person when it comes to cars, and thereâs several things listed that Iâve never considered to check. This is a very detailed and informative guide, I recommend everyone save it and come back to it when it comes time to car shop.
raymanh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:01:38 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Should probably also mention that, especially when buying an older car, the condition of the body is as or more important than the mechanical components. Rust is a huge issue, so use a magnet around prone areas (especially the sills) to test if the metal hasn't rusted yet.
Huneycombe ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâm sure itâs not the case for every used car lot, but most of the vehicles we buy at my job are repossessed vehicles. Some of us are just trying to do honest business in an business where the buyer doesnât always trust the seller. In my experience, Iâve been treated better at a used car lot than most of the dealerships Iâve been to.
nwwazzu ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is the longest fucking LPT EVER. Saving it for later though I'm sure there's some gold in here.
nwwazzu ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is the longest fucking LPT EVER. Saving it for later though I'm sure there's some gold in here.
maliszewski18 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:02:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Buying a used car is always a gamble. There are so many cars out there sometimes itâs best to just walk away instead of buying the first one there are always better options than just going with the first one you see
Amillionbeers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:03:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also check the under carriage for rust and fluid leaks. Shocks with dark wet marks are blown and means the car has been driven like shit. Idk you may have covered this but usually the first thing i look for.
TechniChara ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Guides like these are what allowed me to confidently purchase a geat used car last year - I self inspected over half a dozen cars (even identified flood damage with just a few minutes of looking!) before paying for a pro-inspection on the one I liked the most. Thank you all very much for putting in this effort to help out novices!
ThePooksters ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know more than the average person when it comes to cars, and thereâs several things listed that Iâve never considered to check. This is a very detailed and informative guide, I recommend everyone save it and come back to it when it comes time to car shop.
FLCLHero ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Great information. Iâm a certified General Motors journeyman tech, the only thing I would amend is checking for noises under the hood. Many new cars ( 2015+) have direct fuel injection. The pumps for these systems are mechanically driven by the engine and experience pressures upward of 2000psi. They can be noisy and definitely sound like a ticking valve lifter or similar noise. The manufacturers try to mitigate this with insulation, but it is still noticeable.
Edit : meant to also mention the purge solenoid. This is a valve meant to allow engine vacuum into the emissions system to suck the fuel vapor from the vapor canister and burn it with the other air / fuel mixture. This prevents raw fuel fumes to escape into the atmosphere. Occasionally these valves also are noticeably loud, and simulate a ticking component. Usually this noise will come and go when the ecu determines the correct time to manage the emissions system.
Aardvark1292 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:57 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Aaaaaand bookmarked
Lukiz24 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:04:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
About the fluids at MAX: it is easy to hide a problem. Before I bought the car I checked fluids, and rougly 4 days later there was 0.7 litre of coolant missing. It might have been something as simple as a head gasket, or just a hole in the hose. Took no chances returned it back
Maxxxxxxxxxxxwell ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you!!! I'm looking at buying my first car, but it's really daunting trying to buy second-hand when you don't know what to look for. Amazing post.
Going_my_own_way73 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for all this information. I recently moved to Colorado and am thinking of buying a Subaru (Colorado State Vehicle). I took my current car into a local mechanic and they told me I shouldnât purchase one because it is hard to get them repaired if something goes wrong. But all the reports Iâve heard say Subaruâs are a good quality car that last a long time if you maintain them properly. Just curious what your thoughts are on the subject. Thanks.
mi2626 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If the car is equipped with Bluetooth make sure it works. The car my dad picked out for me has Bluetooth, but it doesnât work.
GeorgeYDesign ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
"Some straight like you, then I poked him
roseypeaches ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:05:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I really really wish I knew this before I bought my POS car a few months back. Thanks for the tips! Iâm saving it for later.
gusted ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:06:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is fantastic! Thanks, OP
PM_ME_UR_SIDEBOOOB ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:06:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm currently in the market for a used car and this post couldn't have come at a better time. Thank you!
oranjizfiz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:07:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome post man! Any chance you have experience with motorcycles? If so, it would be amazing if you had time to share some tips for that!
neddysmith23 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for taking the time to write this up!
sj914 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing- thank you!
gygtejdb ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:08:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thereâs an app called YourMechanic that Iâve used twice for pre purchase inspections of used cars. Itâs basically a gig app (like uber) for mechanics. Both of the times I used it I was satisfied with the mechanic and it cost about $100. Well worth it.
Nannarbuns ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:09:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow thank you, my car got stolen a couple months back and I may have to get a used car in 2020. Post: Saved.
Nasahs646 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâd be more and more careful these days with used cars than ever before. Unfortunately, rolling back miles is very easy nowadays. A car is just a big computer and many cars can be rolled back relatively easily.
ChickenParme ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks so much for this
azog55 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:10:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post. Thank you.
GoneAtSea ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:11:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this post, much appreciated!
architimmy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:11:27 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post!!!
Just wanted to note that some cars like newer F-150s and Teslas have some aluminum body components so the magnet test doesnât always indicate an accident, just an aluminum body panel.
Evolve3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:11:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is saved post material, thanks OP
simdus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:12:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A few more tips to followup on the great post:
postdiluvium ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:12:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I want to take my cars to your shop. Ive always been taking my cars to dealerships until I found out, as you said, they don't do complete diagnostics. I got tired of bringing my car back for things that could have been fixed during my prior appointment. The very last time I brought a car to it's dealership, they didn't tighten one of the bolts and it created a whole lot of damage the moment I drove off in it. It's tough finding a honest mechanic.
Hooverdoor ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know a lot about older cars but im not up to speed on the electronic computer stuff. This was a good read. i dont have time to get an ODB reader before my next purchase but it was covered in your post (trade in too old for the fancy dealerships forecourt) so im not too worried but thanks for this its really useful.
FilthyBongSmoker ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So the car is going WAAA WAAA WA WA WA WAAA WAAA WAAA WA WA WA WAAA WAAA WA WA WA WAAA My current car goes WA WA WA WAAA WAAA WA WA WA WAAA WAAA WA WA WA WAAA WAAA
Trekari ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
With all due respect to OP, if taking the car to a mechanic before you buy is not an option the seller will permit, don't buy an OBDII yourself.
WALK AWAY.
No legitimate seller of a vehicle will refuse to allow the vehicle to be inspected by a mechanic before the sale. If they do, they're hiding something.
Stu2013 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What is your take on buying rental cars with around 35k miles?
chrisstewart711 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:13:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The YouTube channel Chrisfix has a series about this and a checklist to bring to the car. If anyone is interested I found it very helpful.
PerotX ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:14:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Will save for the future. Thanks for the post.
clarkgrismand ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:14:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a really thoughtful list, thank you for taking the time to put this together.
TarBenderr ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:14:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice, thanks!
beauetconalafois ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:15:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Make sure the Check engine light actually works. Turning the key to the acc position without cranking it will make all lights on the dashboard light up. Make sure the check engine light is lit in there somewhere. Unscrupulous car sellers will disconnect it or remove the bulb so you cannot see that the light is on if there is a problem.
Pcm_Z ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:15:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You can get a paint thickness sensor and see really fast if some parts of the car were repainted, usually the roof has original paint and you can check real paint thickness and compare it to other parts.
sidramz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:16:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Love the waaa waaa waaa , thank you
checksoutfine ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is awesome . Save for later
saucy_awesome ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bless you for this.
delidave7 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is fascinating and excellent! Thank you.
ItS_OUt_oF_ConText ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you have any tips for hiding problems when I'm selling a car?
justinmacmahonn ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:17:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My car recently broke down and im now looking for a car. Itâll be the first ânewâ car ive ever really had so im excited. Thanks so much!!!
jerkularcirc ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:18:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâve been looking for something like this for a while and already bought a used car a while back but thank you for providing such a detailed list.
Bendrake ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:18:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for all the work you put into this - I hope it helps someone!
eskiabo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:18:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great read ! I have a little Off topic question but I'm planning to sell my jeep here soon. 2015 jeep Patriot. What's a good way to determine a good sale price?
Majora3192 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You da man/woman!!! This is amazing thank you. I've saved this as I will be looking at buying a second hand car soon :)
MaddandSpooki ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I am so glad this came out 4 hours ago. I am buying my first used car. To have this guide is epic. Thank you for taking the time to make it. It really is gonna help me when I choose my vehicle. I only have about $3000 so nothing too much. I will let you know how it helped me since the process is so new!
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:58:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
MaddandSpooki ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:05:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeaa I have no idea what this is. I am still new to reddit just joined today.
admiralspark ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:23:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
For some reason the original post got deleted, this is a backup of it so you can reference it later.
MaddandSpooki ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:26:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow that's epic of you thank you so much. I really appreciate this!
admiralspark ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 04:28:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Np, there were a bunch of comments asking for it and I figured you would be too :) welcome to Reddit, friend!
MaddandSpooki ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:39:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much I have been enjoying myself all day. Some community's can be brutal. But this and others have been nothing but helpful!
admiralspark ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:47:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
đđ
a1blank ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any tips for finding a trustworthy indy shop?
redditor_aborigine ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:51 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Brilliant. Thank you. A real LPT.
*typo
jerkularcirc ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:19:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing and is the type of info a smart mechanic would tell you to look for.
Nigell1185 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One thing I would like to add is:
If it moves or opens TEST IT!
I had just bought my dream car and drove it off the lot and had to stop at a gas station on the way home. Go to open the fuel door the get to the gas cap and the thing falls directly to the ground. After inspecting it I can see where it has fallen off multiple times and they just jerry rigged it back on there for me to drive it away and then it becomes my problem. Open, close, up, down, side to side, all of the buttons. You better believe next car I get Iâm gonna check that fuel door.
slackademic ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is all great stuff when purchasing a car that the expectation is all the above should be a good working order.
I think it is important to exercise flexibility depending on the price and age of the car.
If Iâm selling a 20 year old car for $2000, and you want a 2 hour test drive and start trying pull things apart on the car to inspect Iâm going to tell you to take a walk.
Beelzebutthurt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Imma be honest, this is why i pay you to know these things during the prebuy eval lol
pain_in_the_dupa ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:20:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I now check the exhaust on cars Iâm interested in. The easiest check is to make sure nothing oily is present in the exhaust. If you donât want to use your hand (exhaust can be hot), you can use a piece of paper or cardboard. Just hold it near the exhaust pipe for a few seconds. Then check the results. Just water is ok, as there can be moisture in the exhaust if the engine is cold. Touch and smell the residue. If it feels slick or has a sweet chemical smell, this can be Iâll oil or coolant.
My friend bought a used Range Rover. This model had a tail pipe that points down. As it idled, I noticed a dark spot on the pavement. I touched it, and it felt slippery. 10 grand later he had a new head gasket.
Note about Range Rovers: if your butler is not reading this post to you, you canât afford one.
FlakyRaccoon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you expect people who know nothing of cars to already know what all these acronyms you use mean?
paperyes ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
FWIW (and coming from the seller side of things), please donât go out and buy a used car expecting something brand new. If you are buying a 5 year old car with 80k miles on it, thereâs only so much a 150+ point inspection can find. Without us driving every single vehicle every day for miles and miles, we wonât be able to find absolutely everything wrong with a car.
If there isnât new tires on the car and theyâre at 6mm for example, and you end up needing new tires in 10-20k miles, donât come raising all heck at your dealer because your used vehicle needs tires because of normal wear. You bought the car with low tire tread so it becomes your responsibility to maintain it.
People come at us all the time YEARS after theyâve purchased a vehicle from us demanding we replace their tires or other wearable parts because they donât understand how cars work.
Educate yourself on vehicle basics, warranties, wear and tear, basic maintenance of your vehicle (German cars require different maintenance intervals than American). Itâs not a dealer or manufacturerâs fault if you fail to change your oil and blow up your engine. You have to assume some sort of responsibility for yourself.
And for Godâs sake, CHECK THE CARFAX. Depending on state law, some dealers will require you to sign it. It wonât show you everything but it will give you a good idea on wether or not a vehicle has been properly maintained by the previous owners.
V12-Jake ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is sort of very specific advice, but 12 cylinder cars wonât have this phenomenon with the starter. Due to the nature of their design the compression is naturally balanced so you get their characteristic smooth starter noise.
Obrigadachan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:21:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What is obd? What is ecu?
lufiron ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another good tip is to check the mounting bolts for the trunk/hood/doors and the strikers. If they look like they've seen a tool touch them, more than likely it's been in an accident.
nic-warrior ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much!, I'm saving to buying a used car and this guide is a godsend, I'm still deciding between a 2014 corolla and a 2014 Civic.
RavingGerbil ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey thanks for the tips. I'm not in the market for a car but I'm sure this will really help at least a few. Props, and happy New Year's!
GeorgeYDesign ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:22:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Missing a whole lot of people claim.
ConcertinaTerpsichor ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:23:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You have been unbelievably generous and kind here. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to write this.
aHellion ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:23:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I spent $1,500 (used by owner) on a lemon that blew up within a month. A local mechanic I trust told me the engine block had cracked and I had 2 options, replace the engine or get a whole new car. I was pretty upset because that was pretty much all of my money, it was suppose to go to a car. The one big thing I learned myself was to approach every car you're interested in like it's a piece of junk, and you can't just pretend to walk away if it looks bad. If it looks like a sour deal you need to for real walk away.
After that mess I tried to buy used from dealer, the very first one I went to offered a car, I said I wanted to take it to a mechanic. When I did that the mechanic told me I almost bought another lemon, it had a literal laundry list of problems, like 30 bullet points. He said that car was worth a couple hundred dollars at best.
I returned the car to the dealer and the salesman asked how it went, I told him I can't buy it for these problems and as I tried to show him the list he reached his hands into the air like I was trying to hand him a grenade. I learned later that he was trying to avoid acknowledging the cars issues, because it would make him legally at fault if it clunked out shortly after selling it.
I eventually got a car that has been running perfectly for 5 years now, all I had to do was drive 2 hours out of state to a dealer that wasn't trying to scam people.
(Eastern Shore Toyota is where I got my current car)
tilman2015 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:23:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for this, some great tips for people (and I thought I was pretty good at buying cars but never checked fuel trim which makes sense to check now!).
Only thing that might put people off un-necessarily is
My cars often look like beaters from the shopping cart dents / bush scrapes / grit chips which aren't worth fixing up on an older car where it'll just get dinged again and piss me off.
Mechanically though, every service item is done before it's due and any minor issues are sorted immediately.
As such, trust a stack of receipts for parts and the mileages written on for everything from timing belts to suspension components as much as a stamped service book on an older car.
khughy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for sharing this. Iâm definitely saving to favorites for when the time comes.
columbo33 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good stuff but I do gotta say your auction comment is opinion bs. Depends on way to many factors to be legitimate.
Jerker_Circle ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
agreed, there are some decent cars in auctions most of the time
NefariousSerendipity ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I dont even have a car. Good read though.
lazermaniac ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Gonna add my 2 cents - I'm an auto glass technician with a certain large company that's got an annoyingly catchy ad jingle.
Check the windshield's lower corners - does it have the car's brand name? If not, you are most likely looking at an aftermarket piece of glass, which is by no means a deal-breaker on its own, but it bears a closer look.
The company I work with has several tools and techniques that allow for easy, damage-free extraction of a broken windshield, but these tools and techniques tend to be expensive or just outright proprietary, and as a result some local glass places may not use them. Cutting the polyurethane glue outwards from the inside of the vehicle with a hand or powered blade used to be the norm, but it has a very real chance of scratching up the paint and base coating, often exposing the steel beneath to moisture, which is further compounded by any reveal moldings or trim pieces as they tend to not be completely waterproof while at the same time providing enough of a seal to keep moisture in place for longer than one would think. Within a few months, any exposed metal will be visibly rusted. If the issue is not treated, rust will continue spreading more or less indefinitely, eating deeper into the metal even underneath intact paint so long as it's got a way to get in.
If the vehicle has had its windshield replaced, ask who did the work and see if you can find out what tools and techniques they used. If possible, try to carefully move the molding aside to see if you can catch any signs of rust in the gap between the glass and the car body, including discoloration or bulging. If it's difficult to see, or if it's full of dirt, see if you can put something long and narrow into the gap and slide it up and down along the edge. Rigid plastic works best here as it won't scratch anything - one of those pre-approved spam credit cards will work. Listen for any sort of crunching or grinding sound as that might indicate crumbling rust and definitely calls for extra scrutiny.
See if there are any splotches or stains on the headliner, especially where it curves up to meet the top of the windshield. The presence of a stain may indicate that the polyurethane glue that was used to install and seal the glass was not properly applied or patted together, leading to a slow leak, making a perfect environment for biological growth. Having caused a couple of these in my rookie days, I can tell you - you do not want mildew in your car unless you enjoy the smell of a gym locker full of cheese.
Give the black border of the windshield an extra look as well. I'd say about 2/3 of the people I have replaced glass for heard a sound on the highway, saw no visible damage since the border is opaque, and thought no further of it until temperature changes or flexion in the vehicle's frame applied stress to the compromised glass and caused the chip to spread beyond repair. It's easy to miss, but easy to check for!
Do a branding check on each door window - if one does not match the rest, shake that door a bit and listen for any rattle from inside that might indicate left-over broken glass. Double-check to make sure the door latch, lock, and window regulator operate without any sort of crunching/grinding noise and at a speed that matches the other windows. If any of it is unusually sluggish or grinds audibly, it is possible that the mechanism or mounting hardware was improperly reinstalled during window replacement, poorly cleaned of broken glass, or a combination of the two.
If the window in question has an auto-open/auto-close feature, check that as well - some aftermarket windows will have slightly different dimensions than the original, which can lead to calibration issues and a loss of automatic functionality. This is especially prevalent on Volkswagen cars in my experience - German engineers do love their tight tolerances!
All I've got off the top of my head - happy hunting!
Lefty_22 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:24:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good overview of the physical aspects, but 99% of people get worked over by the HUMAN aspect of buying a car!!
Do yourself a favor and watch some YouTube videos on The Four Squares of Car Sales and look up your Credit Score BEFORE you go in. GET PRE-QUALIFIED FOR A LOAN if you can--best case you dont need financed from the Dealership or have power if they want to try to beat your bank.
LAST: ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS ask them to go LOWER on price and be prepared to walk away. YOU THE BUYER have all the POWER.
ShatterPoints ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Open the hood. Look at the engine bay. Look by the frame where the hood latches. If you see a different color paint. The car has been repainted. Assume because of damage. If you see seam welds, there is frame damage. Do not buy if you see that.
Also check the trunk and take out the spare tire. Look around the tire well for obvious welds or repairs. If you find any the car has been damaged and there is frame damage. Do not ever buy a car where frame damage is suspected.
Basic damage to the bumper or scratches to paint, etc are all fine since they do not structurally compromise the car.
Markiiii ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:07 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for future use
Cyril94 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Buy standard. They last longer.
Bogthehorible ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ypu left out internet research so as to not consider anything that was a piece of shit from the factory, such as anything chrysler ,or german
RVLVR-OCLT ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Lexus cars have no orange peel. Always found that interesting.
Sigmarguidesus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:41 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is why I love certificated pre-owned lately. You pay a bit of a premium, and if the deal was too sweet Iâd buy regular used. But, I just love the middle ground between new and used. I have now bought Lexus, BMW, Corvette all cpo. You know theyâve passed a rigorous inspection and you know that for X amount of years (4-6 years of which 3 or 4 is left in my cases) that itâs simply not your problem. They often include (or will throw in during the haggling stage) maintenance as well. Lexus (and I think Mercedes) are even offering an unlimited mileage CPO now. Thatâs a pretty sweet thing, to know you could put 1,000,000 miles on a car over 6 years if you want and still pay for nothing major or sometimes nothing at all. To me thatâs worth an extra 3-4%
Seven_Dead_Horses ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:25:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I read this and am now a mechanic.
missgeekette ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
great tips! now someone do one for houses
dps2141 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just a quick caveat on the body work point, there are a handful of cars that aren't painted body color in the engine bay area, and a lot that aren't clear coated which can cause the color to look a little different. For example, some newer BMWs aren't fully body color, the engine bay and door hinge areas are all white regardless of the body color. Look for consistency, if one side of the engine bay is body color and the other isn't... Red flag. Also worth noting that accident damage isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but poorly repaired accident damage definitely is. If you know the car has been crashed before but can't find any evidence of repair, chances are it was done well enough that you'll never know the difference.
blackjesus75 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I feel like most of this is overkill. Just have to know what you're buying mostly. What is the reputation for the vehicle? Known issues etc. For example F150 with the Triton V8 were notorious for spitting spark plugs out or having them snap off when you try to change them. Subaru has had head gasket issues on some of their engines.
Does the engine have a timing belt or timing chain? Is the engine a pushrod? Does the vehicle have a turbo(s)? Is it leaking anything? Any funny smells? Check maintenance records. Check engine lights? Is the car filthy inside and out? Can you see signs of a wreck? Buy a paint thickness gauge or a magnet to check if there has been bondo work done on body panels.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If I have gold Iâd give you one. This is helpful.
BigPenisWithoutShape ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any opinion on used cars from Carvana?
JiggyJinjo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:26:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
" If youâre test driving a manual car, the clutch engagement point should be somewhere in the middle of the clutch pedal travel. If itâs right at the top or right at the bottom, clutch repairs are in the near future. "
I just had the clutch of my car replaced in the manufacturer's garage and felt the clutch lowering and lowering until it wasn't working anymore. Now that it's replaced, it is on the very top, it feels like I have to push 2-3cm in and that's it. Is this normal ? Also, the clutch pedal was quite stiff before but now it is so light it feels like I can push it all the way with my little finger. Is this normal too ? I tried 2 other cars to check if it wasn't my old habits and the clutch pedal is nowhere near the softness of mine.
GoldilokZ_Zone ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:27:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for posting, very informative.
I disagree with point 8 though...both my cars can get messy inside (lazy kids etc) but they are serviced on time and mechanically sound. (although I would clean it if I were selling).
They also never get washed except by the rain.
GrugCrood ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:27:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also, if you buy the car from a random person on craigslist or something, MAKE SURE the person handing you the keys 1) has the title for the car, and 2) is the person whose signature is on the title (ask to see ID to verify). If these requirements can't be met, then it is likely a title-jumping scam, and you will never be able to register the car in your name to drive it legally.
shit_poster9000 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:27:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You mentioned checking under the hood for evidence of accidents, I recommend checking the trunk as well.
xoxomaxine ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:28:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Excellent tips! Donât be afraid to buy a car off craigslist!
3 years ago, someone posted their older Range Rover for a very low price. The problem? It wouldnât start anymore. Wonât even crank. Windows wonât work.
We went to check out the car and they had replaced the starter, the tension belt, and a few more pieces thinking they were the problem. My SO works on range rovers. He immediately gave me the âlookâ to buy it. Paid $1100. Pulled the RR with a chain (using my SOâs car) around the corner. He plugged something in to sync the computer with the car and we started it right then and there and drove home.
Still a beast in the snow. Has it quirks but for $1100, it paid for itself within 3 months of what my last car note was.
unusuallyuseful ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:28:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome. Thank you!
WreakingHavoc640 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:29:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Something I learned from personal experience that I want to add:
Google recalls/service bulletins/whatever theyâre called for the car youâre thinking about buying. See what might be out there because a lot of people either donât get the memo or donât bother to get the repairs done.
And then thereâs what happened to me: got a nice little newer (to me anyway) truck for winter driving, all was well until the cat collapsed one day and blew out a head gasket. I spent well over a grand to fix it and some other parts that turned out to be wearing out (and saved labor by doing them at the same time). So far so good, but then a little time went by and the head gasket blew again. This time I couldnât find any reason why it happened, so I took it back to the mechanic who had done the first repair (certified and specialized and all that). And he said to me oh yeah, well those engines are known for blowing head gaskets because itâs a shitty design and they fail all the time and never should have been put on the market that way. Had I known that ahead of time I might have gone with a different type of truck altogether.
So find a good mechanic and ask them about all of the things that could or probably will go wrong with the car youâre thinking about purchasing. Theyâve likely seen it all if theyâve been in the business long enough.
TheGameChanger84 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:04 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Carfacts gives you any accident history the car has.
QuietMrFx977 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Get a ruler or use your finger and run it along the gaps between doors etc. if there is a large difference the car might of been in a crash and not correctly repaired
laxt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy shit SAVED THREAD. You're a godsend. Some of these people are gonna print this out for reference. An honest mechanic, especially how complicated cars have become in our lifetimes, is like witnessing a miracle because a lot of us are beyond lost. And the mechanics at Jiffy Lube are dicks.
I literally bought this car mechanic game for PS4 with the Jedi game for my Xmas splurge. Haven't started it yet (Jedi game is dope.. wish there was more pew-pew-slash-slash than climbing puzzles but it's fine) but I basically just got an excuse to study vehicles more, along with this reference.
Tomfrommyspacehi ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for taking the time and effort to make this extensive guide mate, massively appreciated!
steelerfan1973 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:30:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Good write up OP! I'm a 25 year ase master tech myself. One of the cheapest and greatest things ive ever run across is the Torque app on Google Play or Apple store 5 bucks......Then get a 10 dollar elm327 Bluetooth OBDII widget from Amazon. Instant code scanner for 15 bucks.....that also shows emission monitor status. So if seller has just unplugged battery to turn off engine light the torque app will show the monitors not ready and you know they're probably selling a problem. I recommend the app to all my customers....can leave widget in OBDII port and monitor real time data better than any harbor freight tool. Can set up custom dashes on app to display oil pressure, voltage, torque, instant fuel mileage among dozens of other sensors. Makes cheap cars with idiot lights and no real gauges a ton easier to see if they are healthy. We have them in all of our cars and the app installed on cheap 7 inch tablets mounted in dash. Makes for a good look and constant real time monitoring is amazing.
cryschemic ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:31:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for later. Thank you.
Thundarr1515 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check the ODB. Old dirty bastard
nickolove11xk ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Add something about checking monitors and how that can help tell you if the cel was cleared. Not all cars clear all monitors though.
Edit.... I clearly didnât get far past the engine codes part lol
nvrnxt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing advice. I imagine there might be specialists in this niche, but what differing advice might you have for electric or hybrid options? I imagine the codes might be applicable. What other elements raise red flags on these types specifically?
neotrance ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:32:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know about checking out the car, what I want is experience in the buying process. Title, bill of sales, leans, dealing with the DMV, taxes, looking out for issues with all the paper work, and so on. It sucks though because that all differs based on the state.
RawrErick ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:33:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
saving this for later
bigbuddhaboobies420 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:33:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
thanks for writing up this super detailed list of tips OP! this is fantastic!
my brother is a mechanic and Iâve never been able to get this much detail out of him when I ask lol
vfxf5XdWoJReddit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:33:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
10 is largely false. There's tens of millions of cars that go to auction. I work in the industry at an independent used car dealer with a $30m floor plan. We slap a 15k warranty on all our cars, buying junk cars from auctions would put many dealers out of business with the competitiveness of the industry.
Most cars I send to auction are perfectly fine, they just didn't sell in my market and I need the money to buy inventory that will sell so I wholesale it.
Don't get me wrong, I've had countless cars show up from auction that were not represented correctly and I ended up having to put too much into the car to make it a good car. But since we have such a good service department people usually come back for everything car related and maybe we'll profit from them in service.
I say do your research on the used dealer but don't be afraid to buy from a used dealer. The used market is doing well right now, people are preferring used.
EnzoDjent ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:33:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a motorbike a few years ago. It was completely broken. I sued the seller and won the trial. Last year I finished my Mechanical Engineer studies. I'll never fall again on scammers.
This is the best post I've ever read about used cars. Thank you!
Link_lunk ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:34:03 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I wish I had known these tips before buying a car a few years ago. The guy selling it seemed like a really nice guy and I was super trusting. He showed me everything in the car and had me test drive it. I looked under the hood and everything looked great. Had I used an OBD2 scanner I would have learned the Catalytic converter code had been reset because it was ruined. A California Compliant Catalytic converter was over $1500. Ended up selling the car for a big loss after only a year because it was cheaper to buy a newish car without frequent repairs.
OnTheEveOfWar ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:34:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
All the used cars I've ever bought it my life have been from CarMax. That place is legit. They have the history of the car and have mechanics that check the car and do work on them. 99% of their cars are from either rental companies or were fleet cars, which means they were well maintained. On top of this they have good prices. We looked all over and the cheapest option was CarMax for the car we wanted.
FlDELITY ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:34:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Should mention looking for rust and if there is, poke it with a screwdriver and if it breaks youâve got an issue
ShatteredPixelz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:35:44 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'll be buying a mazdaspeed6 soon so this will be very helpful!
mabaile2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:37:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So I did most of this and my truck checked out fine. Didn't stop it from spinning a main 10k miles later. On top of that being dumb and it being dark out didn't help because when I bought it I didn't get on the ground and check it underneath, now I have rusted rockers and rusted cab corners.
greyhair_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:37:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Would you look at that? Would you just look at it?
ClamPuddingCake ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:37:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
K well I'll never be able to sell my old jeep now!
My tj is a 2003, 140k km, spent most of its life in an indoor heated garage. Engine runs fine, and I've gotten everything major properly fixed by 4wd mechanics who are jeep obsessed. But I've never fixed the little things like the broken fan switch and the pump for the back windshield and the other little quirks. And there's a few scratches. But it's a jeep, it has personality!
ArchaeoJones ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:38:28 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is great advice. I try to explain this to friends and family buying cars.
My only addition: When you go for a test drive, shut everything off, shut the person next to you up and listen to the car. Wheel bearings and transfer cases are often neglected and can ruin a vehicle. Listen for grinding and rattling coming from the wheels, or more central locations. Listen for a constant clicking and other sounds when turning, which will tell you if the CVs are shot.
LISTEN TO THE VEHICLE.
ChonchAR ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:39:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any tips for buying a new car?
eXistenceLies ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:39:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Pretty good post. I will give Carmax credit. They are a large North American used car dealer and I double checked everything when we just bought our new used 2019 Yukon-XL. Everything came out well. Not all used car dealership are legit though, but they offer a 90 day or 4000 miles bumper to bumper warranty with every vehicle purchased.
techydweeb1 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:40:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tyres. I've often found, the people that pay little attention to the state/brand of tyres, tend to lack on the maintenance side of cars too.... Budget tyres, budget everything else. It's the ONLY thing between you and the road, look after them!
Vitaly1337 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Have to comment so i dont lose this post
Good_Behavior_Day ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:41:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
With possible salvage cars, I tell people to look around the front tires for the fender liners. If they're missing, the car has had a serious front end collision and the repair was less than minimal.
Also, the body lines should match up nice, even on low-end cars. Be sure to check around the taillights and the trunk lid. If not, there's some cut-rate car repair too.
JumboPancake81 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:42:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
i am a 15 year old who just saved up enough money to buy myself a pretty nice used car and this info is so helpful. thanks!!
furiant ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:05 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Do you have a recommended brand for cheap ODB scanner/reader?
Heras-opia ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You fucking God,thank you Im.lookkng to buy a used car amd.it my first time. Thanm so fucking much you dont even know how much this means to me.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WOW! thank you for that. I will study this for sure as my 13yr old car is probably approaching end of life in couple years.
mingizo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:43:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting to find easily later
soliwray ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:55:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here's another tip: use the save button to save posts/comments for later. You can find your saved posts in your profile > saved
ElDuderino_92 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:44:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In the process of purchasing a new car for myself so this is SO helpful. Thank you OP
mattamz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:47:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I donât know anything about cars and have only owned one since new. When I get a new one I might just get a 2-3 year used car Iâm guessing a car thatâs âlike newâ would be less risk? Especially from a real dealership?
ChiefPototo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:47:12 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are places like CarMax sketchy or is what they say reliable at all? Should you still go through this checklist or would it not be as necessary?
tgsz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:47:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Here's my protip which is late but can cover a lot of issues:
If you're buying a relatively high mileage car - find a second used car of the same model/trim with far lower mileage (ideally the exact same generation if not the exact same year) and test drive it. Note how the suspension and engine responds in particular. Note the engine bay condition and lower body parts (lower front grill, rocker panels) and how worn they are. Use this as a point of reference for the one you want to buy - is it way looser/noisier/worn? How do the seats look? How did the paint look?
If you're buying a low mileage car, do the opposite - ask the seller of the high mileage candidate if they've had any issues or parts recently changed. It's like a free trip into the future.
I spotted an unclaimed front accidened Audi this way by test driving an identical one with slightly higher mileage and noticing how much smoother the steering and front suspension was after being really surprised how poorly the first one handled...
Worth noting that this isn't a flawless method - a 4 year old car with 120,000 miles will have different wear than a 6 year old car with 100,000 miles.
This is particularly helpful if you're shopping accross models and not driving the exact same model or if you are only looking at one candidate.
farmdve ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:47:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another's tip I'd add is to make sure that the catalytic converter is not clogged.
Lazydude17 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:48:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tires should be a little higher on the list, well if you are in a snowy-er state. Also keep in mind (for those other than op reading this) that if you buy an all wheel/ 4-wheel drive car; if one tire goes, they all go
ProceedOrRun ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:48:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
While this is a great list, I could hardly justify doing all of that to save $150. Just spend the money and ask them for a list of anything you're gonna need to spend in the next 12 months. Use this knowledge up recoup your $150 by negotiating if it's generally good otherwise.
cara27hhh ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:48:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The engine sounds thing - I had a car with a distributor, distributor went, I spent a lot of time listening to it crank trying to figure out wtf was wrong with it. It sounded more like the 2nd example when cranking, can that be either the distributor or a low battery? the battery would have gotten low because it was being discharged and then charged indoors when it wasn't starting the car. The distributor might have fired a single cylinder? I had the fuel pump fuse out for some of it but I can't remember if it sounded different then. The distributor has been replaced and it runs but I don't know if it's running rough and I wouldn't know what a misfire or low compression felt like. Starts on the button every single time however. 4cyl
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:49:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
m00fin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:52:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Unless you have a warranty, just take the L.
ohakooz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:50:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
wow i thought i knew everything to check on a used car, shit was i wrong.
thanks for this extremely comprehensive guide!!! youâre awesome, i can tell a lot of work went into this post and i will use it the next time i get a new car
gahgs ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:51:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are you one of the Click and Clack The Tappet brothers?!
SociableSociopath ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:51:31 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I agree with most but not all. For instance the âif you hear any noises on cold start, walk awayâ. That is literally bad advice.
Many cars with direct injection actually have a âwarming modeâ this means on a cold start youâre going to hear something akin to a ticking sound which should go away in roughly 20-45 seconds. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the car.
Without knowing what to listen for simply saying âwalk awayâ if cold start sounds different than warm start is simply idiotic.
wickedcoddah ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:51:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What if it was a car that was used by a state motor vehicle department for a year and then put up for auction? Itâs a 2019 with 17,000 on it. A lot of miles but the car is perfect.
Halione8 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:51:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're selling a car and some ignorant internet expert comes up saying I want to crank your engine cause I read about it on Reddit you tell him to fuck right off
CthulhuCuItist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:52:13 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Firestone Complete Auto Care will do a full vehicle inspection (feel free to let them know youâre trying to buy the vehicle) for 9.99-21.99.
Oct0tron ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:52:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is an excellent writeup, and I'll add my own thing to it.
This website that I use has proven to be my best, least-biased source of reliability information I've found so far. It was created by an auctioneer and a statician, and they basically compiled the data from hundreds of thousands of inspections on the engines and drive trains of every vehicle out there. You can look up a particular make and model, and compare it with others in its category. You can even see which years of a particular vehicle were better or worse. It's been an extremely useful tool for me.
http://www.dashboard-light.com/
asthyroidbelt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:54:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're awesome! Thanks for sharing these tips, they'll really help me buying a car soon
CantHitachiSpot ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another important thing to check but most people forget to do. Pop off the valve cover and check the clearances!
cebeezly82 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My daughter just got her driver's license and me and my fiance are both legally blind so we've never drove cars before. With this said this is an absolute amazing post as we have been looking for cars on local trade groups etc. We've noticed a trend and we're kind of curious to your thoughts? It seems as if nicer vehicles with hail damage are super cheap could this be due to people just taking the insurance money and selling the car because it has some lumps. Also are there any brands that you recommend? I've heard a trend surrounding Toyota Subaru and Honda when it comes to reliability but it would be great to hear you weigh in on this more. Thanks for the awesome advice and post I hope you're having great holidays.
perpetuator ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:00:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Post removed, anybody saved it?
djangelic ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:01:52 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
https://snew.notabug.io/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
guythnick ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:06:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just replied a repost
TwistedSalt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:00:24 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah I just "checked the engine without starting it" on my daily driver and now it won't start -.- how do I fix this? It doesn't sound like a dead battery, it tries to turn over but doesn't entirely.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:43:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sounds like the battery is dead. A good battery would do this no problem. A bad battery might only have enough juice to turn the motor over a few times. Try to jump start it. If it starts, your battery was really weak. Look on the bright side, you found that out now instead of it leaving you stranded somewhere.
TwistedSalt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:54:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Huh, thanks. I'll call triple A for a jump in the morning.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:48:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Did you get it started?
TwistedSalt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 20:58:45 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah, apparently my battery's just super weak lol.
DaveInDigital ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:03:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
a lesson i learned recently: just because a truck is one year old with low miles, donât assume the Chevy dealership selling you an auctioned Ford did any sort of inspection or cared to follow up on anything they may have found (like oh idk needing a $750-1000 brake/rotor replacement) ask them to get a multipoint inspection report from a Ford dealership. i bought out of town so i didnât know any trusted mechanics in the area, lesson learned.
willyj_3 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:04:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why was this removed?
Fra-Cla-Evatro ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:08:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Iâve bought a couple of shitty cars. Actually bought a santa fe recently that had some major problems. Iâm gonna use this guide from now on. Thanks!
Felcher0001 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:13:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you in advance for saving me from making MORE mistakes. Not all heroes wear capes
SoulWager ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:13:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When you check the oil, feel how thick it is, if it's way heavier than it's supposed to be, it's likely the seller is trying to cover up some engine knock.
As for the magnet, there are some parts that are often plastic, like bumpers, so look for differences within a single panel, or differences in the same part of the car from the left side vs the right side.
AlienRocks ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:15:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My last two cars- from 2007 to current- were/are Chevys.
I'd like to advice to stay away. Every day it's like finding out what to expect. Recall? Repair? Replace?
My family had Ford's up until the last 5 years. They kept breaking down- only a few years old- and they swore off them finally. My dad was mechanically inclined and to see him that pissed off was something.
My mom swears by her Nissan and my dad, now, GMC. I'm in my 30s and cling to a Toyota. My next car will either be a used Lexus or a 4Runner.
thesoulespada ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:15:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great tips but honestly you're basically selling that a person should just go ahead and buy from a named brand used car dealership that usually upkeep their used vehicles as most cars have 1-2 of the issues you've mentioned. That's why they tend to be cheaper than cars you buy at well known dealerships and will need some maintenance (just depends on how much you're willing to put in). Also, I find that the small business used car dealerships tend to be better than the chain used car dealerships and it's the chain branded used car dealerships that make them look good on the inside and outside for selling without working on the mechanical parts. Small 1 person dealerships tend to fix the mechanical parts more and not worry about cosmetics as it costs more for them with angry customers. Although this is based on my experience working with mechanic shops and car dealerships
7_Cerberus_7 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:34:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for this comprehensive list! Not in the market for a car yet but this will be a huge help when I get to it! Didn't have a father or brother figure growing up that showed me anything regarding cars so there are soooooooooo many nuances I have zero clue about.
SeeSFBuild ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:34:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks! I don't understand everything here but I'm saving this for the future and I'll reread it again when I am actually buying a car.
Trif55 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:37:20 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Maybe a British thing but it feels a little invasive to do all that when going to look at someone's car? any tips for that?
Link1021l ¡ 3 points ¡ Posted at 21:49:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Who cares if it's someone's car? There's a possibility of it being yours soon and you shouldn't end up with garbage. If they ask what you're doing just day you're inspecting it, if they don't want you to continue, you know there's something they don't want you to find and thus you should move to another car for sale.
Trif55 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:50:32 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's a very good point! Thanks
viperex ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:55:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This seems thorough
j_knolly ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:55:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This was removed as I finished reading the first sentence. I guess buying that used car will have to wait
1st10Amendments ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:00:48 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The year of the model is the same as next year, so a 2020 model came out in 2019. If you wait until 2020 to get a 2020 model, the price will probably drop by a fair amount simply because itâs not seen as the latest thing.
If you buy last yearâs model, itâll still be a great car at a much reduced price, and probably still under warrantee because of low or no mileage. Plus, by then the car will have been talked about as to recalls or defects/deficiencies.
A âprogram carâ is one that has been used for test drives, so itâll be âlightly usedâ and thus (lots) cheaper, but still clean and under warrantee.
Some say that if you offer to let the dealership put signs or stickers advertising the dealership on the car, you can get them to periodically wash and wax it (so the dealership gets a good reputation), and/or drop the price of the car for the âfreeâ advertising. The canard has it that the best advertising available is word of mouth.
steve_gus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:51:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Seriously. Thats as complicated as fuck. Thats not an average joe âknow nothing about carsâ set of tests. Buy an OBD scanner and try it out a bit then wonder wtf its telling you as you know jack about cars?
One of the most over the top lpts in years. Point 12 for example. The fuck? Thats expert level.
Take someone with you who knows or buy from a reputable dealer that gives a few months warranty
nibblicious ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:51:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A REAL "Life Pro Tip", THANK YOU!!
SiebeYolo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:56:16 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving this post right away, thanks OP!
oldcoffee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:57:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This reminded me of the one time I went to buy a car with my wife, I asked them to pop the hood, and I pulled out a flashlight and mechanic gloves and dug in. My wife ended up texting me and saying the seller looked nervous and not to buy it so we walked.
53cr3tsqrll ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:57:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you. This is the best and most comprehensive advice Iâve ever seen.
SlyFoxCatcher ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:58:09 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So in other words if you want a brand new car dont buy a used one. Hahha i work at a used car lot and what you talk about them or at least mine is farthest from the truth.
Auctions do contain bad cars yes.... but it's an auction lol also they contain plenty of repoes and lease turn ins that are better maintained than the average customer car.
This is what drives me crazy about people buying a used car.... you are buying a used car for a reason. Because you cant afford a brand new car.
Also those aftermarket warranties arent bad. Most of them require an inspection done on the car at a place of their choosing.
Nobody and I mean nobody is gonna do all that you list in this post to check out a used car. I mean why not just save money and buy a new one?
Edit* also dont ever trust a carfax... I have seen completely totaled cars with a spotless carfax. And I have seen a minor fender bender labeled as frame damage.
BLSmith2112 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:01:10 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Really can't wait until everything is electric.
kaitlyn2004 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:01:23 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Okay so I didn't read the whole thing BUT if I'm okay with bringing car pre-buy to a reputable shop for the inspection do I still need to do/consider things on top of that?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 23:13:47 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No, a good pre buy inspection should cover all of that.
OutWithTheNew ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:01:37 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Step 1: If you don't know anything, just pay someone who does to assess it. Have it inspected BEFORE you buy it.
If the seller won't let you take it to be inspected BEFORE you buy it. Walk away.
Niiin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:02:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
But all my engine oil looks like chocolate milkshake, is my engine really just a yard and all the boys never leave?
But seriously what could that mean for my car
Ohio4455 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:04:42 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is actually great advice. Or just cut the check for a new one. Trade before 40k. The difference for a new whip is barely more than payments. Buy early trade early!
phlibbertigibbet ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:05:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
RemindMe! 10 years.
ZAHyrda ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:06:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this! I've read a few similar pieces on what to check, but thank you for telling me HOW to check these things.
Nparallelopposite ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:08:50 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My dad always told me to smell the dip stick if if it smells like gasoline or is cloudy, it's a bad head gasket and you should run.
Aturom ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:08:54 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks! I'm sending to my mom.
metal571 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:10:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing. I've been a car nerd pretty much my whole life and I've never seen some of these tips. Awesome. Thanks
theantig ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:11:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Have financing done outside of the dealership. I worked at a dealer and saw soooo many games played to get people to pay more. I recommend credit unions.
Shag_fu ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:12:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check for a p1000 code if you can. This indicates the codes have been reset and the computer hasnât finished all the self tests. Sometimes this can take a few hundred miles to clear. This indicates someone is hiding something.
If youâre looking at the ford family of vehicle(ford, Mazda, Lincoln) its worth looking at FORScan. This cheap program combined with the right scanner will let you do a deep dive in to the computer.
hanawasakura ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:13:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is super useful, I wish i read this this time last year when I bought my first car and not knowing a thing about car mechanics etc. I took someone with me and bought from a mechanic but a few days after the problems started with the check engine light, engine misfiring and almost breaking down. It's happened regularly since buying it and I definitely could've saved my time and money if I had known what I know now. I'm still learning about the basic car mechanics and maintenance, it's always scared me playing around with cars but I prefer to learn to do things myself.
mike_84 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:13:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The first thing I always check to see if the front end has been wrecked is the headlights.
If one headlight looks new and the other one looks cloudy then it's been wrecked. If both headlights look new, ask the owner if they put in new headlight housings to replace the cloudy ones. There might be a chance it hasn't been wrecked.
Also, check if there's a gap between the front bumper and headlights. One side might be flush and the other side has a gap.
BigJabrony ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:15:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for later. You da real MVP
mon0theist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:17:45 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
ChrisFix has a series of videos on this on YouTube
JustAnonymWolf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:19:06 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice advices! I'll add one to the list:
If you can, ask a mechanic to go with you and look at the car. Here's general practice, it costs less than going in a shop and you can rule out bad apples very quickly. However I've heard that it's not available everywhere
CriticalEscapeBike ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:20:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
DAYUM!!!!!
I just went to school!!!
That is the singularly BEST post I have ever read!!!!
Decalcomanie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:20:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy shit this is extensive. Thank you so much!!!
tannerwilliams23 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:20:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another good one, check under the Engine oil cap, if it is not as OP described and is frothy run because it may have a head gasket issue.
Looking at you Subaru...
Trynadunkfr ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:08 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
WAAAA WAWA WAAAA WAAAA WAAAAA
Dar_of_Emur ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:14 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Certified Used cars: do you need to do all the above on used cars that dealers are selling as "certified pre owned".
I bought my kids a 2015 Escape that was certified pre-owned, which had a 1 year dealer warranty, bumper to bumper
Tan89Dot9615 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:15 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why do you have multiple step 1's?
Layent ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:21:53 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
nice used car buying guide
metroids224 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:22:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Or just take it to your mechanic who will check it out for free if you're a regular customer
sthvlknn ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:25:33 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You are amazing for this, Iâm gonna save it and reference it many many times in the future. Thank you
princeoftheminmax ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:26:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Does it apply if youâre going for certified preowned from a dealer? Curious as thatâs what Iâm currently looking for as well.
Werstreddituserever ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:26:46 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Chrisfix on YouTube made a series on buying a used car and he has a list free to download for people wanting to buy a used car.
rightaaandwrong ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:27:34 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you VERY much. I plan on purchasing a used vehicle in the latter part of 2020.
Black_Magic_M-66 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:29:17 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Always like reading an ad when someone says there's a problem, but they'll throw in the parts and it's an easy fix. I've always thought if it was so easy, why didn't they do it?
MSRT ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:30:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great information, thanks! I'm still driving my first car, a thirdhand 2005 zibe with almost 200k miles. She's been good for me the past four years, but her previous owners totally abused her... I'm preparing myself for when her time is up and I have to get a new used car. I'm going to save this post for the (hopefully distant) future.
friend0mine55 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:33:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Someone probably mentioned it, but aluminum body panels are becoming more common so a magnet will not always be attracted to body panels. If it is attracted to one spot but not another on the same panel, that's def a red flag for Bondo. Knocking on it also can show the difference- aluminum and steel both resonate and sound, well, metallic, and Bondo will just make a dull this kinda like knocking on drywall.
BioshockedBeans ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:34:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Upvoted just for the WAAAAs
Icypalmtree ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:35:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is orangepeel really a normal thing for factory paint jobs in 2010-2019 model year cars (so, the mainstream used market right now)?
I grew up with/around a 2000 Mazda 626, 2006 mazda 6, 2010 Mazda 6, 1995 240sx, 2000 Passat wagon, 2012 mazda 3, 2016 chevy volt. (USA spec)
Now, they all had the factory metallic/pearl paint but that's all that was available for those model years.
I've never seen orangepeel irl and I've spent quite a fair deal of time over and under and everywhere inbetween on those cars.
Does that advice only apply to big three cars? Only malaise era? Am I missing something?
spacemusicisorange ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:36:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Super great info here!! Thanks! Saving!
MeowsMixD ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:37:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
@racefiend ARE YOU KIDDING ME WITH THIS!! Youâre awesome thank you so much.
kmn493 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:39:35 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't even know how to drive and never heard of the majority of the terms here, but it sounds really helpful and is an in-depth guide. thank you op!
LuvSicHex ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:40:59 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Quality post. Trusting your own inspection is really the best thing on this list. You'll hear everything from anybody (and not always maliciously).
fradd13 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:41:26 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
But you will almost never find a car that fits all of these conditions.
I've been through four cars since I got my license in 2014, and three had thousands of dollars in problems (the other one had no problems for three years, then fell apart after I bought another car).
Yet I am I meticulous researcher, way better at it than most people, and even then there are simply too many things that can go wrong that are undetectable during a test drive, or can at least be covered up. I researched cars, reliability, reviews, and listings for months before buying each of these cars. Still got fucked.
Most recently bought the newest car I've owned, from a dealer, a 2012 VW GTI with 110k miles. Yes, I know, German car. But I did all the stuff you mentioned, as much as possible. Even got a $160 inspection from a VW specialist.
Yet a few weeks after buying it, 2 quarts of oil is burned, and I learn that the piston rings are shot, which would apparently cost thousands to get into the engine and repair.
If you buy used cars that are out of warranty, it's almost a guarantee that something costly will need to be replaced sooner than later.
If it's under warranty still, you don't have to worry as much until once that's out.
You buy it with more than about 70k miles? Get ready for replacing parts that will inevitably need to be replaced regardless of whether the previous owner was shitty.
So best way to buy a used car is make a total car budget, then subtract $2000 (or more, to be safe) for repairs and maintenance, then buy a car for what's left. Hopefully that'll cover your ass.
Taminella_Grinderfal ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:43:22 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is great advice, Iâll likely be in the market soon. As someone who knows nothing and hates buying cars, maybe Iâve been lucky, but I got my last two from high end dealerships who happened to have great condition trade ins that didnât âfitâ their regular customers (ex. BMW dealer unloading a limited edition VW beetle)
prepare2Bwhelmed ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:45:29 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not a mechanical tip but if you are buying from a dealer and you are financing then you should line that up with your bank (or where ever) before hand. That way the only thing to negotiate on is the out the door price.
Many dealers love to make you think you save by dropping the sticker price and then turn around and take a massive spread on the interest and financing charges. Many of the best salesmen at a dealership end up in the financing office.
momtomonkeys4 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:45:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is so helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to write all this out. It really helps those of us who go it alone to look at uses cars. Thank you.
Bilees ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:46:49 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wtf, an actual life PRO tip. Kudos to you man, thank you.
nemoomen ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:48:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wait so a used car dealership is less reliable than a private sale? I thought I was paying a premium because they're not just some guy.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:40:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not all. There are good used car dealerships. They're mainly the bigger ones with good reputations. You'll see a lot high resale value cars on the lot. Not many cheap cars. It's the smaller ones, where all the cars are under 10k, that you need to watch out for. They're picking up cars at auction for cheap (think $500 to $1000 mostly), dumping some cash into it, then selling it for a big ROI. They can afford to take back a lemon if they're so inclined. They'll just route it back through the auction to get some money back. The worst are the Buy Here Pay Here kind of dealers.
oxygenium92 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:51:36 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just take your friend who fixes cars or even a full time mechanic to inspect your car before buying, bonus point if he specializes in brand you are interested in, hundred bucks of his time or so can save you a lot of money in the long run.
showtimebabies ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:52:19 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Go in the daytime.
JohnGillnitz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:53:02 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One thing I'd add is don't take it to the closest place to the dealership. They could have an informal deal with the dealership. Any place worth their salt should let you take the car for a couple of days. Use it to get it inspected from some place fully independent. Also to go look at other cars. If a seller sees you in a competitor's car, they are likely to give you a better deal on their own.
CDMJarrettvsMehldau ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:53:40 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
While this is awesome in depth information, thebreal take away here is that if you arent really a car person you shouldn't buy a car without a car person with you.
DarkenMee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:54:25 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome information thanks
humanmanhumanguyman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:55:21 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A few tips for a reliable car:
Pushrod engines are usually more reliable than overhead cam engines
Timing chains are generally more reliable than timing belts
Automatic transmissions are usually lower maintenance than manual transmission, although manuals may be cheaper and more fun
New (10 years old or less) is not necessarily better, more reliable, or more efficient than older cars (15-20 years old)
Low mileage does not mean it's a better choice, a Pontiac Fiero or Renault with 40 thousand miles will probably be less reliable than a Ford Focus or Toyota Corolla with 300 thousand.
The fewer options a car has, the more generally reliable it will be, i.e. the simpler the better.
All of these rules have exceptions, but generally if you can find a car with some of these it will be more reliable.
SpikesNvAns ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:56:18 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Even as a tech, I learned from this thread! Appreciate the post good sir!!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 00:23:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
We're all always learning. Glad you got some use out of it.
absolutelyrightnow ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:58:56 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is really thoughtful of you and much appreciated to be sure.
I can just see myself rereading this in someoneâs driveway to see what flavor milkshake is bad, LoL
I think itâs WAY worth the $150.00 for all of that! Thank you !
ur_labia_my_INBOX ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:00:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great guide. I've bought a used car or two, and never again am I buying anything with questionable service history. The last used car I bought was from a ex harrier jet pilot. He didnt fuck around when it came to maintenance. That car was a pleasure to own.
Hanscockstrong ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:01:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah ok, whatever duuuu. How many toy cars do you have on your wall? You don't know shit about cars pal.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:03:23 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:21:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As long as you know what you're getting into, there's nothing wrong with that at all.
dataden ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:04:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Pleeeease make a video!
sabimaru_- ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:04:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You sir are a hero, thanks really.
Mr_Durden_978 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:09:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just commenting so I have this in my history.
GeorgeYDesign ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:10:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Some people shouldnât use their signal.
Notwhoiwas42 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:12:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is all great information but it assumes a base level of car knowledge that,in my experience,is well beyond that of a lot of people. Many peoples concept of cars is " I put the key in and turn it and magic makes vroomies which make go places."
JebKushman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:12:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy actual shit you got so many awards!
CasualFox ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:15:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just bought my first (used) car. Wish Iâd had this earlier - but Iâm saving it away for the next time I have to buy a car. With any luck thatâs several years away though...
sa855 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:15:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a used car that was pretty good but in the winter i found that the upper third of the rear window defroster did not work. Was there anything i could have done to detect this on the lot? Not a big deal but i would like to know for next time?
distractionsgalore ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:16:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bravo! Great post!
shinyaveragehuman ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:16:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No need for a car at the moment but saving this for later. Thank you for such a detailed post OP!
hm9000 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:20:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
69 awards... nice
ohlaph ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:21:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for taking the time to write this out.
Artist_of_the_pissss ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:22:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The cars I can afford offer 1 thing only... Its technically classed as a car. For shame.
techtornado ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:24:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
YES!!!!
Also, electric cars are amazing for eliminating a lot of headache of buying used/refurb.
Much less that can go wrong due to a simplified drivetrain...
fegerino ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:25:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is so incredibly helpful for all of us that dont know shit about cars. I'll be buying a used car here in the next week, and would have never thought about checking at least 85% of this list, especially before I forked out the cash! Thank you so much for this!
parentskeepfindingme ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:25:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love these tips. Sometimes it passes all these checks and then more or less craps out a few months later. That's what happened with mine. About 4 months ago my power steering developed a major leak, 2 months ago major oil leak (2 quarts a week, seems to be coming from the bottom end?), Evap system leak within a month, and last month it started to flood the motor occasionally on cold starts. Still, great list!
Marine5484 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:28:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
2003 Golf GTI 267k still running like a champ.
chicagomikey ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:30:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Are they advertising an older model, low mile car? Check these two things that may suggest the person rolled back the mileage:
Look at the driver seat, does it look worn down?
Look at the Gas and break Petals, does it look worn down?
Most likely has more miles on it than they stated if their worn out. They may have rolled back the miles. Checking the above shows how much use the car has been through.
Special-Bite ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:31:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As a fellow automotive professional, I give this a thorough upvote. Well done.
jeex_likes_trains ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:36:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also check to see if the vehicle you're buying has a spare tire and tire change kit. Did a pre-purchase inspection and found the jack to be missing
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:38:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awesome post. I'm saving this forever.
EmpressKnickers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:39:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My mama always said, make sure it's not completely clean under the hood. If it is, they're likely trying to hide fluid stains. A little bit of dirt and grime is pretty normal. Check for streaks in it, or sticky spots.
BADGERxxxFACE ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:42:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I currently drive an 02' Dodge Durango 5.9L.i want to get a family sedan. (4 of us) But I really want to get one that is incredibly good on gas. (Not a hybrid - ($)) second hand.. maybe 2016.
Is there full size sedans that are 4 cylinder? Or just mid size like accord/corrolla/civic/camry?
I would like to stick with honda/Toyota/kia/ Hyundai
Daedcatlol ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:44:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I disagree with #8. I couldn't give a single shit about the exterior/interior but I take every step ensuring proper maintenance is being done.
Y1NGER ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:45:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I used to work at a new car dealership and one thing I will say for certain is that I will NEVER buy a used car from a dealership.
I've seen how the mechanics treat them and it's usually not carefully, but carelessly. They'll fix any major problems so the car is drivable but will "overlook" anything minor, especially cosmetic wear (i.e. cracked bumper/parts missing).
OP: thank you for your insight. There's more truth in your post than most people know.
blackskies4646 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:46:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
I wish there was somewhere on the internet I could ask actual mechanics about issues with my car. My local place tends to shrug when they can't get it right.
I've currently got a reoccurring issue with the emissions light coming on in my car for, and I quote, "no plausibility between O2 sensor 1 bank 1 and O2 sensor 2 bank 1". Took it back to the garage who modified my car and mapped it (it had been fine for nigh on 3 year) who said all the sensors are reading fine and they can't understand why it showing suddenly.
God_Among_Men_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:49:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
When testing the brakes see if you can feel the steering wheel wobble. The brake disc would be worped which might means it's been driven aggressively.
TanK203 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is awesome. Wish I had seen this before I bought my most recent car. I bought it from a large, trusted dealership, but it was an auction car with a clear title. I found a lot of cosmetic issues after the fact that hinted that the car had major repair work done. Cradle bolts loose, all four doors replaced, missing a seatbelt (cut). The dealership wouldn't let me return it, so I threatened to take them to court and we settled.
It's had a lot of issues, but the extended warranty I purchased has taken care of most of the problems. I do plan on checking compression and fuel trim now that I know what to look for.
Thanks again for the post and good luck to ask the car buyers out there.
Gmtspeedy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If used car dealerships are bad, where would you recommend buying a used car from?
patb2015 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
what about parts? If you see new parts?
how about analyzing the carfax?
ComboCosmo ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well this will be useful for the next car!
Vulture710 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:53:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very nice list. I work for an independent shop and we sell used cars as well. You obviously put ALOT of time into this post. I would add on the part of previous body work, a good sign is if the sticker for the vin/vehicle information and/or tire information stickers on the door jam are gone along with the stickers for emissions/engine and A/C information under the hood are gone, that is a sign of previous body work done and the body shop didnt bother to replace or save the stickers wich hold valuable information for owners. I also would slighty disagree with dealer maintained vehicles only for the fact that the dealers ive worked for or have done business with are pretty lousy. However that can be said for any place at any size, independent or otherwise. This isnt just for op its for anyone reading. The more you know about car in general and your car specifically the better. Their are bad eggs in the bunch that paint mechanics as theives and con-artists in this line of work so it can be difficult to find a good one, but if you do and you know them to be good its like finding gold. One things ive noticed that may be helpful in finding a good mechanic or dealer of cars is word of mouth. I have seen many new customer to my place of employment who say "You guys come highly recommended from so and so". If someone has been going somewhere for years and recommends you a place, at the very least they are doing something right and keeping the customer happy.
Beastysymptoms ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:55:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Very good write up OP, the information is on correct.
fastfxmama ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:55:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow, thank you for taking the time to share this wisdom.
IndominisRex ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:58:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Crazy great post man, thanks for the tips. Commenting to save this one for the next used car purchase.
Kyocus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:02:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is the best damned car acceptance inspection guide I've ever seen. Thank you for sharing!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:21:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome!
themastermatt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:02:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this great writeup! I need to buy a new car in the next 30 days and was interested in a hybrid. Any tips specifically for hybrid vehicles?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:20:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Unfortunately, hybrid cars are a lot more complicated, and the wall of text I'd have to write would wear out my keyboard. I mostly deal with Priuses when it comes to hybrids. The gen 3 prius has had a lot of issues with blown head gaskets. The consensus is that a clogged EGR cooling system is the main culprit. If you service it and clean it (it's a bit involved), and also service your cooling system regularly, you shouldn't have issues. Not set in stone though. Other than that, the gen 3 prius is pretty rock solid. Toyota redesigned the EGR system for the gen 4 prius. I havent heard of or seen any head gasket failures in the gen 4 yet.
If you're buying a used hybrid, the main thing you're worried about is the hybrid battery. You can check the battery by looking at the voltage Delta across the battery blocks. A good scanner can get you into the hybrid battery to check that data. It's a little bit complicated, but there are a few good videos on Youtube on how to do this.
DoctorWock ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:04:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is one of the best posts I've seen on this sub, thanks for taking the time to write it up. Definitely referring to this in the future.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:06:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks, and you're welcome.
deveznuzer21 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:06:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Too late man, already got scammed. I paid 4.500 euro for a used car after trusting a licensed car service to check it because i knew very little about cars. These idiots must have checked nothing of what you say because they told me the car was fine and needed only minor fixes but I've already spent another 2.000 on it in just 4 months fixing this piece of garbo (cylinders, rev chain, oil leaks, battery and more). I'm currently hating life and wishing I had done more homework myself.
rolopumps ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:09:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. What a very well laid out post. These are the types of post that make Reddit a fun place
kshucker ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:20:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy shit, possibly the best LPT of all time.
formerly_cool ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:21:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Please accept my sincere thanks for this informative read. Also, huge thanks for how you spelled out the âWAA WAAAA WWAAAAAA WWWAAAAâ. Idk why but that part killed me.
GetCsigeWithIt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:23:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Omg I really needed this, my car caught fire and was totaled the other day after owning it for 8 months (used), it made me feel like I couldn't trust used cars.
Valleygirl1981 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:30:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If the dealer won't let you take it to a mechanic for inspection, don't bother with any car on their lot. Leave an online review to warn others.
jughead8152 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:30:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also, flood damage. Take the spare tire out and lift the mat. If there is dried mud there it has flood damage. Lift the molding around the trunk and look at it. If dirt then it has been flooded. Run
AgreeableWolverine4 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:31:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is amazing. Thank you kind stranger.
no_ur_great_bot ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:35:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're amazing, u/AgreeableWolverine4!
calmor15014 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:34:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh I get it. But I also both run a service business in a different (but adjacent) industry and can work on my own cars. Mercedes service advisor has talked to me about him flipping Hondas. We both know plugs take 15 minutes if you can get to them. He tried to explain it but he was rather vague so I assume theyâre making out fairly well on that service, and itâs something well known so itâs easy to convince people it needs done.
Ford dealer wanted something like $2300 to do a water pump on my 3.5 EcoBoost Taurus. Fastest way is drop the engine and transaxle. Parts were $800. The work was well worth the price but I still did it myself to save over a grand. It took me over 18 man-hours to reassemble it after the pump was in, so the labor charge was more than fair, but I still couldnât stomach the bill.
old-schoolcool ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:38:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this! It's really helpful
KJ6BWB ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:38:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A lot of cars have plastic over everything and a magnet won't stick anywhere. As to orange peel, you may be thinking of the effect of powdercoating the metal, but if it's colored plastic parts from a mold around the sponges, etc., that modern cars are built out of, the color may be completely smooth.
Pmurray206 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:42:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post just want to say thanks
7Rw9U79L59 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:43:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Remindme! 3 months
6L6aglow ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:44:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for taking the time to create this.
Banzybanz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:45:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is one of the best posts I've seen on this site so far. Thank you.
Also, during test driving let your steering go to see if the car pulls over to one side.
sweet_tooth21 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:50:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I know you don't mean it personally, but #10 really hits hard for me. My father and I run a family owned used car dealership. You are right that dealerships do all of what you say but my father since day 1 in 1972 has been about being honest and not selling polished turds. We go to auctions (100 miles one way) and waste a lot of our time and money trying to find good cars to sell. A lot of the time, we come home empty. It's just us two so no one can be at the shop working on cars or selling anything. It's hard to find low mileage cars let alone cars that aren't beat up but whatever the car needs, we fix it. Other dealerships sell cars with rusty floorboards, bad transmissions, engines that have had zero maintenance, bad suspension, etc.
It sucks that there are many bad used car dealerships that give us small, honest, family owned businesses a bad reputation when we bust our asses to make sure we sell quality cars.
RBeck ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:50:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
OP is probably from somewhere that doesn't have salted roads for snow, but I try to pull up the carpet in the trunk on cars, if you can see light coming through the floor theres tons of rust damage.
Also if the service records are from areas where there were huge hurricane landfall beware of mold and other water damage.
Writer90 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:54:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well, you are awesome.Thank you.
TLC_15 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:55:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks this very helpful.
JohnLockeNJ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:58:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Now Iâm definitely going to pay the $150
BrianTheDogGriffin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:58:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
How easy is it to sell a car from a flood? I thought the title has to say salvaged, but can shady dealers avoid that? What should we look for?
zhugetank ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So good advice. Gonna re read this
Kubaty007 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm saving this. Thanks!
Cisco904 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:05:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have been in the automotive industry my entire life, from technician to manufacturing to diagnostics. This post is great and spot on. The only thing I would add is if 1 or 2 readiness monitors aren't set, this can prevent you from passing emissions testing in your state, google the model and monitor, there are a list of vehicles with exemptions due to manufacturers setting the criteria in a manner none of them every pass.
I know on the manufacturer side of OBD there are codes that literally will say ignore and erase, I am not sure if the global side of OBD will show these or not. Again Google is your friend here.
Jueban ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:06:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Damn, that kid got off light.
warmind14 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:06:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Outstanding work, you will definitely help lots of people with this, bravo sir.
stuckNTX_plzsendHelp ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:08:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for such a thorough walkthrough. After reading it, I feel a lot better spending the hundred and fifty on someone else checking it for me.
TheBluePanda ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:10:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I didn't do these things when I bought my used car because I was lazy. The result a few years later was a car that looked great, but had so many underlying problems that I ended up donating it because it just wasn't sellable.
DastardlyDaverly ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:14:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a solid LPT on buying a used car.
Batteredburrito ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:15:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Any recommendations on ODB scanners to buy? In UK if that helps
yisoonshin ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:16:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Maybe my drumming ears helped me with more than just drumming. I can hear the compression issue loud and clear, and I could hear the order too.
imonlyheretocreep ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:16:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post! Saving this for when the old 'white elephant' breaks down! đ¤
OOO-OO0-0OO-OO-O00O ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:19:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a used car just last week. I wish I saw this then
puffed_out ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:22:18 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a great post! Thanks a lot mate!
old_news_forgotten ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:22:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Is it a bad idea to buy a beater car for like $1000,. E.g 2000 corrola
piss-and-shit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:24:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Shop metalworker here.
If you see any welding on the chassis, you are purchasing a metal coffin rather than a car.
If you see any angle grinder work on the frame, it is a weld that gas been aesthetically erased to fool any potential buyer.
If the grinder work is rusted over, the current owner was scammed. If they were inattentive enough to get scammed on chassis work, their garage got the OK signal that the owner is dumb and can be scammed in other areas as well.
Welds and grinder work on body panels is okay so long as they don't shake when you touch them.
Welds on any part of the wheel is a big no-no.
Look for slag) as you check the welds on the vehicle. If any slag has been left behind, the welder is subpar and by extent the welds themselves.
You should also look for tiny chunks of slag and slag dust near welded areas. If there is slag dust near a weld it means that the weld was made very recently, likely with the intent of hiding something important.
If you look under the car and there is a soda or beer can welded to a pipe, run. This person used a fucking soda can to patch a pipe leak.
This one is more obvious but I'm saying it anyways: If there is ANY visible chipping or thinning on an engine belt, this person is not maintaining their car.
jx2012 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:26:48 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just something to note: if youâre looking at a sub5k car donât expect perfection. Otherwise youâll be looking forever....cars are not meant to last forever. Understand what you are buying but you cannot find a car without any issues if you arenât buying a near new car.
misssarahjane ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:28:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much for taking the time to type up this post. I am saving it! I hope my question isn't off-topic. I'm completely ignorant when it comes to cars, so I have to really rely on my mechanic. When it comes to choosing a mechanic in a new town (I have had to move far more often than any adult should), I tend to go by word of mouth recommendations. I'd like to be able to be slightly more discerning on my own though. What should I look for in a mechanic? What are some red flags? I've had the same Pontiac G6 for 10 years, and I love it so much. It's getting a little old and really needs TLC to keep it in shape. How do I know who to trust?
ErikKraus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:30:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Why buy a car when u can date one like the guy from my strange addiction
TenderWalnut ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:31:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is literally the only post on this sub that Iâve seen in almost a year that has any value. Good for you
xjrh8 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:33:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Fantastic post, many thanks!
A car obsessed friend of mine said to look for spanner/wrench marks on the bolt heads and nuts in engine bay / door jambs / trunk as a sign that panels/parts had been disassembled or replaced. Would you agree with this ?
BadAtUsernames789 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:39:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving the hell out of this post.
robosuz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:47:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If used car dealerships are dicey, where should I look? I'm about to start shopping for a used car and its so overwhelming!
skyshadow18 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:49:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I test drove a car and took my dad along in case he noticed something I didn't. He noticed a grinding in the engine and asked the seller about it. Seller says "I have the part in my office. I can take it to my friend down the street and he can install it. I just need you to put a down payment and I will take it to the mechanic." Uh no. Why was it not fixed before you let people test drive it? I asked him if I could take it to my mechanic and he said his mechanic is closer so I told him I'll keep shopping elsewhere
der_ami ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 02:51:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for taking the time to put this together
SuddenWriting ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:04:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
paid over a hundred for ppi and they neglected to inform me the head gasket is shot. so.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:20:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sorry that happened to you.
diegoenriquesc ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:09:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Black transmission fluid is not worth the risk, I wouldn't say maybe, especially with American cars and Nissans. CVTs are unreliable.
Also, radiators were originally meant to run on distilled water, that should not be a deal breaker.
Also, good to check for rust under the car.
DMcgurt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:10:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I also recommend, if possible, starting the car cold. There are lots of issues that are only shown at cold start, such as work timing chains, failing cold start injectors or high pressure fuel pumps. These can be very costly to fix and a main reason people get rid of their cars.
FiskyBlack ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:11:01 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wish I had know many of these before hand, bought a used Wrangler sport unlimited and the bigger had a faulty radiator fan and the entire electrical system was torn to shreds
FLJohnnyBlue ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:14:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also... Go watch a bunch of Scotty kilmer you tube videos so you don't make a stupid car choice.
seb21051 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:14:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another useful tool:
https://www.carcomplaints.com/
Check out their "Best vehicles" - Mostly predictable, with a few surprises.
ollee32 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:19:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
ThatDude697 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:24:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
!remindme 4 years
TheWeirdDude-247 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:28:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well I'm screwed then, I face lifted my car, wings bonnet bumper, crash bar etc if ever sell Its going to take some convincing to tell them why and not because of an accident, then I decided to paint some panels under hood during face lift, original blue but painted silver, looks awesome well to me anyway!
jinks_z ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:36:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey OP, this looks like a tedious task. Can I just not hire you for your services?
phussann ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:37:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
âIâm a meachanic/body shop ownerâ.
No, you are a prince! Thanks for taking the time to do this. Seems like solid info!
Eguot ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:38:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Want to add about cranking the car with no fuel pump relay, if the car has a high pressure fuel pump(another fuel pump on the engine) those are strong enough to pull fuel through the pump to start the car. Also for number 3, while checking fluid, brake fluid gets low over time as the piston extends in the calipers. So if it is below the minimum line, chances are it needs brakes. Coolant is a weird one, because it is perfectly fine to run distilled water, but you should only be using it to top off your system if need be. If the car has done any kind of track duty, chances are they do not run antifreeze so all you will see is water. Also if the vehicle is normally serviced at a dealership, and it is a few models old, or around 6+ years, but parts are being replace. You have a slight chance of a part being aftermarket. It is USUALLY up to the customer if they want to go aftermarket but some places do not inform the customer. Reason being they go aftermarket is the part is on backorder, no longer made, expensive, or can be a few days out. It is usually parts that take up a lot of shelf space and never sell. Things like compressors, alternators, calipers, rotors, and surprisingly belts. I will say though, aftermarket stuff seems to do pretty damn well as long as it works initially.
AlvinGT3RS ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:40:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Holy fuck is this the most awarded lifeproTip
ozbodiare ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:44:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Super clever ad. I might just buy one.
pseudobbs ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:45:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'll just throw out there that even though dealer maintenance records may be the holy Grail, they're not everything. I switched from dealer to Indy repair shop because the dealer was an ass who kept trying to hose me. If it's not a dealership (or even if it is), Google it to see how the quality of repair is
Trippy_Mexican ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:49:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also check the sound settings! My friend bought a used car and they had the Balance set all the way to the left, because the right speaker was blown. He bought it thinking the speaker system was fine until I messed with the settings.
Crazzed42 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:50:43 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You sir , know your stuff . Grate read , very informative. Not looking to buy but play around fixing my car at home, will he getting obd scanner. Thank you !
Charliesclassics ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:51:09 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The best decision I ever made for myself as an aspiring technician (mechanic) was to buy a cheap classic Volkswagen Beetle and proceed to daily drive it, breaking "something" on the daily. As a result, I became quite proficiently with my "roadside engineering" and just about everything I know now about working on cars, I learned from wrenching on this poor old Volkswagen. Two years later she's still my daily, and almost fully restored.
Prince_Polaris ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:52:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well, good thing I never plan to sell my van because a lot of my repairs and modifications are "hokey" :(
I had to get that PlayStation installed somehow!
smile-bot-2019 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:52:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I noticed one of these... :(
So here take this... :D
DantheactualMan17 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:53:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good boi bot
AgentG91 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:56:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Jesus... can you come look at my car??? You really seem to know your shit! I would love to have someone in the Pittsburgh area that is as knowledgeable as you!
Kage159 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:57:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm finishing the purchase of a 2015 Toyota. I'll be using these tips before it's finalized.
Thank you!
207_Esox_Bum ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:00:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is the best used car write up I've ever seen. Thanks.
EnglishAlaskan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:04:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Probably get burroed but couple of other tips..
Check dash lights. Sometimes, a seller may remove, say, the engine dash light fuse to hide an engine problem.
During a test drive, if possible, drive each tyre over a hump to listen to and feel suspension, drive in all gears including reverse, full lock steering in both directions, hard brake with warning
Check all lights in and out, listen to all windows up and down.
schu24 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:06:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting just so I can easily find this post again since Iâm generally a lurker. Great and thorough info.
stonedlurker- ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:06:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Was a mechanic on a used car lot for 22 years and this is legitimately spot on perfect advice.
Vyke-industries ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:08:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Tip with tires.
On AWD cars, all tires should match.
Same treadwear and pattern.
Step away if not.
jimmytheelf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:08:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
UK CAR BUYERS. Also you can use the gov website to check previous MOT reasons for failures etc
Doc_Chaste ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:10:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
A little late, but I'd add this tip. If you live in a border state this is a little more likely but not a bad idea for anyone. If your local PD has a drug K9 it might not be a bad idea to have them check it out before you take ownership. Some smugglers get picked up for other warrants and the drugs remain in the car. A simple tail light being out a year later and you get pulled over... could ruin your life.
This applies more to auction cars and private sellers. Obviously police auction cars get checked for this before hand.
erayzee ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:15:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post, and I definitely appreciate the time and effort that went into this. Iâm sure lots of people are now well informed and learned a thing or two.
However, Iâm such a noob when it comes to cars, and I understand youâve done a good job and tried to write with a noob audience in mind. After reading the entire post, I just feel even more overwhelmed with buying a user car. Iâm sure in actuality a lot of the tips youâve mentioned are easier to do than I think, and Iâm probably just over complicating things.
At this point I feel like Iâd be more inclined to buy a new car or even lease (even though Iâve heard and read that leasing is the worst thing you can do). All of the tips youâve mentioned have actually steered me away from buying a used car, even if Iâll save some money. I just feel that the inconvenience isnât worth it, and Iâd be willing to pay more for a new car that is unlikely to break down or experience problems for a long time.
Any suggestions? Iâm genuinely curious as to what everybody thinks. Please be nice lol, like I said Iâm a complete noob to car stuff.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:51:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
New and unfamiliar things are always scary. That's why I suggested buy a cheap scanner and practice on a car that you have access to. The stuff I listed really isn't that technical and if you try it a few times you should get the hang of it pretty quickly. Especially the stuff that doesn't involve using a scanner . Remember, everybody knew absolutely zero about our respective areas of expertise at the beginning. However, if it still seems over your head , there's nothing wrong with that. Like I said, my first piece of advice for anyone would be to have a professional thoroughly check it out.
There is nothing wrong with buying a new car if you have the money to do it. Driving a brand new car is a really nice feeling. However, if you don't have the money buying a new car it is not a good financial decision as it is an expensive and heavily depreciating purchase. On the plus side, however, if it does have issues the warranty should cover it and you don't have to worry about out-of-pocket expenses. But if you buy a used car for $15,000 vs a new car for $30,000, you could theoretically get a horrible car that needed $10,000 in repairs and still be out ahead in the long run, especially if you plan on keeping it for a long time. The downside is you will be out more money in the short-term. The other long-term Financial up sides of a used car are decreased monthly insurance payments and decreased yearly registration payments.
But do whatever works best for you and your financial situation
Lostinthesauce2018 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:31:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Whatâs your opinion on Canadian cars, specifically their trucks? Iâm in WA state and while searching for trucks to buy Iâve noticed majority came from Canada. We test drove one recently and didnât notice a difference, but the dealer had nothing great to say about Canadian trucks. If anything the guy was trying to talk us out of buying it.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:23:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Canada has a lot of snow. Snowy areas use a lot of salt on the roads. That salt and moisture get on the metal parts of your car and rust them out, quite quickly. That is going to be very problematic down the road. Even if it's no longer in that environment, if heavy rust has started, it will continue to eat away at the car. That's why in the classic car world, where cars are really old, everyone wants a car thats been in CA or AZ or something all it's life. It will be relatively rust free. A 60 year old car in the east coast? You'd be lucky to have enough metal left to be able to recognize what it was.
Sukaton ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:34:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nope. Take a close friend who really knows about cars (not just pretends), preferably a 30-yo to 40-yo person from family with you.
Simple, no hassle, and you'll get what kind of car you NEED. That friend will have knowledge of what car is good for your area, has all hardware (why buy something when he already HAS it and if he's a true friend he will of course use some time-yes, he'll have reader of data for several cars, but bear in mind that he may know of only certain cars if he's not close friend - OR also have other motives in such a case).
All this kind of chitchat here is just by motor-enthusiasts, some people interested in one or two aspects of the car, NOT what you need. I hope someone reads this (some M.SC (mech eng) know stuff about other things, and think they know everything. Many more engineers think they know everything. Even many more persons who know nothing will claim to know even more).
So, how then ? If in not too much of a hurry, it's not cheating (car dealers cheat) by asking several people to check same cars, predict the future repairs and such (when you buy a car it shouldn't have anything to repair!). They'll say stuff like you'll need to have X changed after 60k miles or such, and will know cost and cheapest shop where to do it reliably.
veenievinnie ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:42:28 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man, not that this is bad advice but this kind of advice is perfect for making the lives of every reputable car dealership who actually inspects and fixes their cars before selling, miserable. Honestly, itâs already an issue to have people come in and waste your time driving four different cars but when you ask an unskilled person to listen and look for issues that they know nothing about is just another item on the list of crap salespeople will deal with. I should write my own one of these honestly. It would prolly be shorter and slightly more simple to understand. Example: Customer came in today to drive a Nissan Rogue 2016. We are a VW dealer. Dude is flooring it all through the drive which I have no problems with. The car was in great shape and pretty low miles. We parked and got out where I asked, âwhat did you thinkâ?He simply says that the engine was too loud. I couldnât believe it. How are you supposed to over come the fact that the car has a combustible CVT engine, let alone itâs a fucking Nissan Rogue!
Again, Iâm not knocking the information. Iâm simply saying this is going to go to the heads of people and make car buying this continuous battle. Thereâs far better advice for the common person thatâs more relatable in purchasing a used vehicle. Your first point should be, know the dealer and what youâre walking yourself into. If they donât show you car fax and inspection information on a used car that youâre considering for purchase then WALK OUT. Buy from a reputable dealership and not some mom and pop shop selling rebuilt titles. Major OEM dealerships are going to be far better options. You pay more because they put the money INTO the car already BEFORE you buy. So that way when your 16 year old is driving one day 1 hour away from home, youâre not going to run into an issue where youâre shoveling out $1000 to fix it. The issue is, people buying cars just want the best deal and price. They donât take into account paying a little more at a reputable dealer just to save a couple bucks at some shitty dealer.
_aliboi ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:46:50 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sees awards
âIâm just going to save this for laterâ
TotalDsg ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:49:16 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I love cars but I'm no expert, this information is super useful, thanks a lot man!!
TrontRaznik ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:50:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TLDR: be a mechanic
PlaguedPlatypus ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:51:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Nice work. Thanks. Saved.
jaybo013 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:51:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is awesome LPT. Great job!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:56:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you
slayer991 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:53:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I just buy new cars and trade in my old one...because I don't know jack squat about cars. I have a buddy that's a mechanic if I should ever need to buy a used car...I'll tell him the price range and he'd find me solid ride.
I recently traded in my 2017 BMW M240i for a Mitsubishi Mirage. Yes, I know it's a step down...but with my new gig I'm remote or on the road so I'm putting less than 5k a year on a car. I also wanted to get a car I could pay off in a year for my stepdaughter after she graduates HS in 2021 (the car she's driving will have 100k miles by then).
CMonkeysRBrineShrimp ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:53:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You are a good person. I like you.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:55:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks. I think I like you too
day7seven ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:53:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
After trying to read your post I think Iâll just pay someone $150 to do it.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:55:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That really is your best option.
glitteristheanswer ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:56:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is a lifesaver! As an absolute noob though even the talk about obd scanners and checking fluids and stuff is confusing and daunting though
saad_zahid97 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 04:59:53 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The auto guy we need but we don't deserve.
kuyajan ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:01:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting for future reference... Thanks for this!
drfulci ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:08:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you!
Wish Iâd seen this before I bought my Jeep. I will say itâs been over a year & itâs still going. Gas milage is crap. It does a weird thing while accelerating that cost 1200 to chase & still never got fixed or even identified. And it has a decent size oil leak. All of that manifested almost immediately after buying the car September of 2018 after I had it to a shop to supposedly have it inspected. They didnât charge. I know why now.
After a year itâs still going though. For all the problems itâs actually been pretty dependable.
Saved your post to take notes & practice it on my car so I can learn for the future. This mightâve saved me from getting into the situation Iâm in now with the current vehicle.
techguru69 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:11:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I got screwed buy a used Kia from a reputable dealer once. Never again. I don't buy used now but I learned a lot of lessons from that experience.
explorer_76 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:20:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very important information to have before buying a Ford Super Duty with a 5.4l 3v Triton. Trust me. Good stuff thanks for posting.
Scar_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:21:36 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I hope this doesn't get too buried to get a reply.
I drive a 1.2L Vauxhall Corsa Limited Edition. I was recently quoted ÂŁ180 to replace, fit, and retest a diff seal. I refused, they dropped it to ÂŁ140, I agreed due to it being not only the dealer I bought it from, but a Vauxhall branch . That seems fucking extortionate for a gearbox strip and a very cheap part, even if genuine Vauxhall.
Now.. I've been quoted ÂŁ70 to do the job off the books, by a mechanic who works at a different Vauxhall branch.
So.. I'm really stumped. The work will get done by Vauxhall mechanics either way. But one comes with stamps and peace of mind, the other is half price.
My brake pads and discs are due a fresh set too so with money being tight, I honestly can't decide which is best.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:45:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm in the U.S., so I have absolutely zero experience with Vauxhall. But a diff seal is a diff seal. The price doesn't seem unreasonable at all. A diff seal will usually call for about an hours labor at least. You have to drain the oil. Then you have to remove the diff cover. It will practically be glued on. You'll have to break it free without damaging the cover. The seal never comes off in one piece. EVER. Now that it's off, you have half of the old seal stuck to the cover or the diff, or halfway on one and halfway on the other. Now you have to clean all of that off to bare metal so you can get a good seal on the new gasket or sealant. Install your gasket. Refill with new oil. Unless it uses sealant instead of a gasket. Then you have to apply the sealant, reassemble, and wait for it to set before you even think about putting in new oil. You also have to pay for the new oil, which can get very expensive for some gear oils.
As for who to have do it, if both options are going to be by a certified Vauxhall technician, then I'd go with the cheaper option. It's pretty hard to screw up a diff cover.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:47:07 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm in the U.S., so I have absolutely zero experience with Vauxhall. But a diff seal is a diff seal. The price doesn't seem unreasonable at all. A diff seal will usually call for about an hours labor at least. You have to drain the oil. Then you have to remove the diff cover. It will practically be glued on. You'll have to break it free without damaging the cover. The seal never comes off in one piece. EVER. Now that it's off, you have half of the old seal stuck to the cover or the diff, or halfway on one and halfway on the other. Now you have to clean all of that off to bare metal so you can get a good seal on the new gasket or sealant. Install your gasket. Refill with new oil. Unless it uses sealant instead of a gasket. Then you have to apply the sealant, reassemble, and wait for it to set before you even think about putting in new oil. You also have to pay for the new oil, which can get very expensive for some gear oils.
As for who to have do it, if both options are going to be by a certified Vauxhall technician, then I'd go with the cheaper option. It's pretty hard to screw up a diff cover.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:47:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm in the U.S., so I have absolutely zero experience with Vauxhall. But a diff seal is a diff seal. The price doesn't seem unreasonable at all. A diff seal will usually call for about an hours labor at least. You have to drain the oil. Then you have to remove the diff cover. It will practically be glued on. You'll have to break it free without damaging the cover. The seal never comes off in one piece. EVER. Now that it's off, you have half of the old seal stuck to the cover or the diff, or halfway on one and halfway on the other. Now you have to clean all of that off to bare metal so you can get a good seal on the new gasket or sealant. Install your gasket. Refill with new oil. Unless it uses sealant instead of a gasket. Then you have to apply the sealant, reassemble, and wait for it to set before you even think about putting in new oil. You also have to pay for the new oil, which can get very expensive for some gear oils.
As for who to have do it, if both options are going to be by a certified Vauxhall technician, then I'd go with the cheaper option. It's pretty hard to screw up a diff cover.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:25:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
[deleted]
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:36:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Your scanner may be old. The older cheaper scanners would only show codes and monitors. I think most of the stuff available now, even the cheap options, give you live data. Every manufacturer will give you at least the basic data through generic OBD, but they usually don't let you get ALL the data.
As for getting another solution, many posts had good things to say about the TORQ app. You can buy a bluetooth obd reader and connect it through the app and look at data. Not sure if it costs money or not as I haven't used it. But it's not the first time I've heard of it.
cynicallist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:25:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have whatâs probably a stupid question. Iâve been taking my car to the dealership at the recommended intervals for maintenance. Iâve kept the papers, but I didnât have them fill out a record or anything. Was I supposed to do that in the event that I want to sell the car?
And thank you for all this info. It would have stopped me from buying an awful clunker that was a money pit. I wish Iâd had it to go over then, but Iâm glad to have it in future when I need a new car.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:30:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There are no stupid questions. The paperwork you received as your receipt should have all the work they performed on that visit on it. Those are your service records. Keep them and give them to the next owner. Also, if you lose any of them, that stuff should be in their computer and they should be able to print you new copies.
cynicallist ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:40:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Okay, great, thank you! When I was looking for some info in the manual I found thereâs a ledger in there for keeping a maintenance log but Iâd never used it, so I kind of just went âWell, shit.â
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:00:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah nobody uses those. Just save your receipts from when you have work done and save them in a folder. Better yet, scan them to pdf.
inman902 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:26:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey this is a great read. Iâm the guy on the other end of the equation- Iâm the sales guy. Iâve sold Subaru, Audi, VW, as well as pre owned all under one roof for the past 5 years. Being a new car dealership, we do have somewhat of a reputation to uphold lol and 80% of the used cars we sell are local trade- ins. Iâm always blown away at how little investigating most customers do on used cars.
To add to what he said...at our dealership all vehicles under 100k and newer than 10 years old have a 3 month 3000k mile warranty that covers âall lubricated drive componentsâ. Take it from me, just because a vehicle has a certified sticker on it does not mean it is a quality car or that you should not do your due diligence in inspecting/investigating further. What has to happen for a dealership to offer any type of warranty on a car is some type of an inspection! Ours is a 58 point inspection and yes that inspection has a paper trail. If you are buying a vehicle with any type of warranty other than the remaining factory warranty or a CPO warranty, ask your sales guy to let you see the inspection checklist as well as the service ticket- here you will see what was done to the car to make it a certified car.
P.S. get the damn Carfax.
Bob_Surunk ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:28:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
No human being would read through all that.
appleavocado ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:32:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
OP, could you please give these tips in the same knowledgeable and understandable way for electric used cars?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:01:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I don't have much experience with electric, just hybrid (and that post would be exponentially longer than this one). As an independent, I normally see cars once they're out of warranty, and electric cars are still going to the dealers. And things like Teslas are totally proprietary, so I'll never see them in the shop any time soon. Except for my buddy's Tesla. That's been on my lift several times. We keep dickin around with it.
Alvyyy89 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:34:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sheeesh! This post is more decorated than some generals.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:01:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've hit the pinnacle of my online fame. It's all downhill from here.
EviGL ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:42:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ask the seller to rev up the engine and watch exhaust smoke not to be black or blue or smell like oil. So obvious now, cost me an engine replacement when I bought my first car.
RedHillCat ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:44:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
please don't ever delete this post! i bookmarked it for near future!
snow_m0n ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:45:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Question, if Iâm buying a used car from a reputable dealer, does this still apply?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 06:00:02 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Your chances of buying a problem car are definitely reduced if buying from a reputable dealer, especially if they're selling it certified pre owned.
snow_m0n ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:28:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
thanks! If it was certified pre owned, would you still recommend checking for some items or bringing it to a mechanic, etc.? Or does the certified status mean it should be pretty much good to go?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 17:53:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It SHOULD mean it's good to go, but I have seen a few CPOs where they missed some obvious big stuff. Ask to see the report and see what all they checked. Use your best judgement. It's always good insurance to have it checked somewhere else.
[deleted] ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:51:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
[deleted]
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:58:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Unfortunately, this is true. But if you can at least know what to look for, you can pick the one the least amount of problems. You can also google those problems you found for each car and try to get an idea if they present big problems or not.
notsomerandomer ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:52:44 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Love the list.
I will say you give people that work the service department at car dealerships too much credit. Maybe one dealership out of ten will actually have someone that is able to sell. Most of them are too busy with recalls and warranty work to care about actually selling anything.
iJax ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:58:41 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for later
bjones0921 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 05:59:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Who wants to sell a car today!!!!
rngsofsatrn ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:04:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One thing I didnât check was the horn! Had to get that checked out by someone
PraiseSun ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:05:45 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not a car person but a biker, if someone maintains their own vehicle but don't keep records of what they've done when should you trust them?
aw-un ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:06:23 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TL:DR take your car to a trusted mechanic
CruiseWeld ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:16:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Late to the party but look under the hood after you test drive it to see if any oil leaked thru the head gasket.
Source - I almost got burned!
HarryKnutt ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:17:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Another very important thing to add to this is if you finance. READ THE FUCKING PAPERS THEY GIVE YOU. They will 100 percent of the time try to slide in extra shit or hidden fees. This happened to me just today. First was the extended warranty offered through the manufacturer( certified used car) which I didnât need because the car already came with 3 years of warranty. Also they tried to slide in a security device fee for an item THEY install to protect their own product. I had to ask no shit 15 times if I am responsible for paying for this feature and not one time did he ever say yes, eventually the dealership manager came and tried to convince me to pay for it and I said it wasnât my choice to install it so itâs your cost to eat. Please for the love of god, READ EVERYTHING AND QUESTION ANY NUMBER THAT ISNT THE PRICE OF THE VEHICLE. These are all separate costs and itemized.
deano1856 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:18:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Electric vehicles seem to have less than half of the potential issues youâve mentioned, given the engines donât have combustion or oil, and there are no transmissions. Does this make EVs more of an ideal used car?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 06:50:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In theory, yes. However, they are in their infancy, so there are likely to be some reliability growing pains. Take the Nissan Leaf with their refusal to properly cool the batteries and having battery life issues. Kia/Hyundai's new electric car looks pretty promising. They're even putting a lifetime warranty on the battery packs. I think in a few years, a used electric will totally be the way to go. To be honest, I won't buy another ICE car, unless it's a classic or something.
deano1856 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:21:04 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Right on. I wonât consider buying another ICE for my primary/commuting vehicle either. Will be sure to research the battery pack associated with the EV.
mobby_duck ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:18:31 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As a son of mechanic with near forty years of experience I would also suggest to use scanner to see if car was repainted and check how parts are holding on the car. If there are screws that looks like they donât belong there, that means it was replaced or removed by sloppy person. Also great guide man . Learned couple new tricks for myself
Wu_Oyster_Cult ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:18:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check the timing belt!
acroback ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:23:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Bought a used Mazda 3 hatch over CL, got it inspected at a mechanic shop.
He gave a green, and I am now at 104k miles with zero issues.
Thank you to all honest honest mechanics and never buy from scumbag dealers.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:43:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There are a lot more of us out there than people give us credit for.
CodeyFox ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:38:54 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting to remind myself to check this post out when I need to buy a used car. Thank you for the insight!
SneakySir ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:39:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I once came across a mid 2010's Suburban at a place that obviously gets everything from an auction. From the street all cars and trucks looked really nice and shiny, reasonably(ish) priced. Went to get a close up look at the Suburban and under the shiny body was an oddly rusty POS that looked like it sat in a field a majority of its life. Wiper blades were just missing, interior features didn't work or were falling off (odometer said less than 50k) and the A/C didn't work and compressor cycled rapidly (I'm a certified technician and knew this likely meant a leak and probably damaged compressor depending on how much it had been dry cycling...btw this was a blistering hot July day). They wanted $20k. I told them I would give them $15k for it and informed them of its issues. They stayed firm at $20k. I told them good luck selling a car with inoperable A/C in the heat of summer. 3 years later it's still sitting on their lot but in changing locations. But it's the same vehicle.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:05:37 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You'd think after 3 years they'd realize they're not going to find that big of a sucker. I'm surprised they didn't send it back through the auction.
SneakySir ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 14:26:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Me too. I hate how much dishonesty there is in the industry as a whole. I do what I can to be upfront and honest with customers and treat everything I work on like I'm going to be driving it or will be next to it on the road. Even if that means not always hitting my SRT's.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:51:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That is a great ethos. You should do well if you have bosses that appreciate that.
Nintenjoe_6 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:41:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Frigginâ cars, man. âCould be purple, could be blackâ
cheeky_shark_panties ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:54:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving this for a time when I can actually read and comprehend this information.
I'm actually currently researching getting another car and the options are..endless. Kind of confusing knowing where to start.
This will be useful once I make a decision, thank you for putting this together. :D
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:03:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome and good luck.
PennyPantomime ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:56:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yes on the scanner things much. My boyfriend and I bought a used Honda l, used a scanner on it and saved a shit ton changing the o2 on our own. As well as replacing the spark plugs on our own as opposed to a 400$ quote a place gave us.
The_Prophet_85 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 06:56:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Awsome. Will definitely be useful when I'm buying my next car!
Snaebakabeans ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:02:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And this is why I strongly encourage people from buying a beater especially in the rust belt. Get sometime who can inspect the car before you purchase it!
20193105 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:03:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving this for archive.
-Cosmocrat- ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:04:59 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I bought a used Jeep YJ, didn't check the fluids. Several months later im doing routine maintenance and I find super rusty coolant in the radiator and chocolate milkshake in the oil. Don't be me.
wiinintendontcare ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:07:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's scotty, everyone!
engine revving intensifies
sqphua ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:08:22 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Having this in a checklist would be neat
Nirossen ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:10:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
!Remindme 2 weeks
family-comes-first ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:10:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow. Best advice, most comprehensive Iâve ever seen on reddit!!! Saving for next car encounter!
EveningCommuter ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:11:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
13 is the best tip you can use. If everything checks out but the guy seems shady, donât go for it. When I bought my car I requested a cold start, as soon as we cranked it, giant plume of smoke. Guy blamed it on it being cold and not starting the car for a few days. After it was all said and done he told me to keep an eye on the fluids. Turns out the car has a minor leak in the cooling system that has since then been patched. I was told the car had been maintained and the service records were on point, they werenât, odometer had also been rolled back, nothing I could do at that point except bite the bullet and roll with the punches. Almost a year later the Torque Converter blew out, destroyed my transmission, had it rebuilt.
Point being, go through this list and make sure it is clean as a whistle. Look for single owner cars that are well maintained if possible. The more hands the car has changed the worse.
Dallas2143 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:15:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is very thorough.
What_I_do_45 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:17:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
My only question is how can you do some of this stuff to a car you don't even own yet? Like getting it checked out by a mechanic?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:35:15 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Ask the seller if you can take it to a mechanic. If they say no, that's a red flag. I've done a lot of pre buy inspections. Sometimes the prospective buyer brings it, sometimes the seller comes and drops it off, sometimes they come together and get to know each other while we check it out.
ankjaers11 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:22:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So happy I got an electric car after reading through this list. Most of the stuff on this list is thankfully gone
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:26:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
It's the way of the future!
ankjaers11 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:30:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Also sad because my old used fossil has many problems after checking this list. Win some, lose some
Tcm321 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:34:33 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I'm not sure if this has been commented yet, but another way to check how much that person took care of their car is taking out a spark plug and inspecting it not only to see if it's burnt up but also to see if the person calibrated it to their car. You can buy a spark plug calibrator on Amazon for cheap and you can find the specs on the manual/manufacturer's website/forums. If the person didn't calibrate them to the correct specs if at all it probably means they didn't care enough about their car and most likely it's not the only problem
darkbarf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:36:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
after reading this there's a reason I don't know a lot about cars
ZedOnNutella ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:37:12 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting to save this
SomeRedShirt88 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:41:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I read this in George Takei's voice
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:51:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's because I wrote it in his voice.
SomeRedShirt88 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:51:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I like you
Mortalytas ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:42:56 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Man, I wish I'd had this post about 2 months ago. I know a little about cars, basically just enough to listen for knocks and misfires, check the transmission fluid and oil. I went with some friends to look at a car they were buying. Sounded OK. Started and ran just fine. Told them I thought it was OK. They bought it. 3 weeks later, car dies. Go to see if I can help my friend get it running to get it home. Can't. Sounds like it's sucking air and it just keeps dying. He tows it to a mechanic and they tell him the motor is completely dead and still cost roughly 3.7k to fix the car they bought for 2.8k. Now he's looking to take it to scrap because the small dealer they bought it from didn't offer a 30 day warranty and pretty much told them to get fucked when my friend called him to ask if there was anything he'd do to help them. I'm looking at buying a code reader like what you mentioned so that doesn't happen next time. Everything else you included was also super helpful. Thanks!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 07:52:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. It sucks your friend got the shaft. Hopefully you can pave this info forward and help some other folks out with it.
boxception85 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:43:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow thanks for this
Phlink75 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:46:25 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If the ad or seller says it "Runs Mint" run the fuck away.
nemesis1313 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:49:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Im looking into used cars. But, how do you manage to have all that checked??
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 08:08:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Well the best way is to take it to a professional so they can thoroughly check it out (the stuff I mentioned plus more). If the seller is not willing, that's a red flag. Also, don't take it to their mechanic. Take it to one of your choosing. If you do it yourself, and practice beforehand so you're not fumbling around, you should be able to do most of the stuff I listed in around 15-20 mins as a novice easy (not including the test drive). All of this stuff is non intrusive, so it's not like you're disassembling their car.
TehAgent ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:52:00 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
There two are big items - up/down/up/down numbers and worn pedals. Also worn carpet - thereâs usually a spot thatâs vinyl or rubber for your foot next to the gas pedal. Check that too. Seat wear and dash button wear are also clues but less telling than the pedals and floor. If the car says 90k but the pedal is badly worn, itâs probably not 90k miles. Janky numbers indicate a rolled back odometer.
Also, flood cars will have rust in weird places like inside the car. Looking at the fasteners in the underside of the dash is a good place to check: not places where things get spilled and may rust from soda or whatever; IE seat bolts like some people might recommend.
yougotmetoreply ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:25:52 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow, thank you so much for this. I'm actually currently in the process of looking for a car and I'll keep this stuff in mind. I'll try out this stuff on my car first.
OodlesOfNoodlez_ ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:28:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good post! Thanks!!
WeAreDestroyers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:29:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I also don't need a car right now but you're an absolute champ for posting this and I will be saving it. Thank you!
laptopdragon ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:30:58 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
adding to check to see if the vehicle is ready to pass emissions.
This is done with the torque phone app and OB scanner. (got mine from ebay for $15.oo).
the purpose here is to ensure the current car owner isn't constantly clearing codes. I say this b/c It took me 3 months to fix all the problems and be able to pass emissions and get new tabs.
the car took 48 hours to re-throw codes and then wouldn't drive, and I had to re-clear them to get places until I could fix the car.
Just saying, don't assume "no codes" is perfect b/c it might take a few days for them to appear.
rjdevs ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:31:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this information. Very helpful wether buying used from a private seller or dealer.
Yanman_be ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:32:55 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In Europe, don't buy from non-natives.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:41:06 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Oh snap!
Sfetaz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:40:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If I want to go to Honda to get a certified pre owned Accord with say 30,000 miles, which has a limited warranty up to 100k miles, within 7 days after purchase to have my mechanic look at the vehicle and if any problems found Honda has to fix said issues, is there something else I should be considering? (I think at least in NJ dealer must fix any issues discovered within 7 days of purchase)
Will a official dealer allow me to bring my own mechanic before purchase? Is there something ultra scummy beyond the normal known stuff about dealerships when it comes to certified pre owned IE used cars?
Not_Knave ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:54:32 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for later
solid07 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 08:58:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Yeah Iâll just hire a mechanic. Thanks!
redditssmurf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:01:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One other tip.
Some brands/models have more enthusiasts than others. This has a double advantage..
lenciu ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:09:26 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Check the windscreen wipers. Those are one of the cheapest and easiest things to replace. If the owner doesnât take care of that itâs unlikely he or she takes care of anything inside that car ;)
WhereDidILoseMyPants ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:11:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Saving for future reference, thank you!
midnightcue ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:12:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Hey mate thanks for taking the time to write this up, it's good stuff. I used to own a V6 Holden Rodeo (Isuzu Rodeo everywhere else in the world) that ran like clockwork except for when my ex went to borrow it and couldn't get it started. So I hopped in and of course it fired up straight away. "Nobody knows how to start this car but me" I quipped, but today I learned about clear flood mode and it makes a lot more sense.
mercsterreddit ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:14:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow, a useful reddit post. Thanks.
hshinde ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:39:57 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you so much! Happy new year to you đ
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:01:04 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Happy new year!
freef ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 09:46:28 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Commenting to find this later
alfhooli ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:00:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Me reading the first line and scrolling down for the comments: IT DOESN'T EEEEEND
B319 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:31:35 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
!remindme 24 hours
scott3387 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:41:05 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In the UK we have mandatory yearly inspections for cars over 3 years old and that forces a minimum standard on second hand cars. Most places will offer '12 months MOT' to prove this test when you buy it. It's not perfect (Doesn't inspect the engine) but helps.
The idea of buying something used in the US where you can pretty much drive anything is terrifying.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Some states do have mandatory safety inspections in order to renew your registration, but unfortunately most don't.
theZiMRA ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:47:29 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
starts reading notices it does not end... writes this .. leaves*
MisterLego ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:50:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Helpful, too high to read right now but will comment and read later, thank you.
theMascot420697 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:58:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
!remindme in 1 year
akryl9296 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:07:21 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
In some other comment chain you mentioned to avoid European cars, especially German and English. How about Porsche? I've often heard those are very well built (but expensive obviously).
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:02:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I have a few customers with Porsches, but I don't see that many of them. My buddy is the master tech at a local Porsche dealer, though. They tend to be pretty good aside from all of the issues with the IMS bearings. Pretty much all Porsches in the 00's have the problem. The other thing to remember is that most Porsches aren't daily drivers, so you don't normally see them with 200-300k miles.
akryl9296 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 01:16:26 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Gotcha, thank you!
taken_the_easy_way ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:15:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
What if it's a used Electric Car?
Prof_Cecily ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:23:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for a great post!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:57:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome
highendbutchers ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:39:17 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
And donât by a BMW
nightabyss2 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 11:49:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for putting this together
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:55:19 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome. Hope it helps
blipblopflipflop72 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:19:40 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Not sure if this was in there but if it seems sketchy, check to make sure the VIN on the dash matches the VIN on the fire wall. Or any other VIN number you can find.
wbcm ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:01:39 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
great used car purchase tips
Butterferret12 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:20:10 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Honestly, in my experience, the worst thing to do is trust good fluid. Every time I have bought a car that had good fluid in it, the seller had filled it up with new stuff to mask a problem.
radarmy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:25:46 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
So I'm at a dealership- I've test driven and it looks good now I want to have a mechanic look at it. How do I ask the dealer to get the car to my mechanic say, 40 miles away?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:55:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Just make it known that you're really interested in buying the car. Start talking about pricing and payments. Then tell them they've got a deal as long as your mechanic gives it the green light. Obviously it's up to them whether they'll let you take it or not, but if they think it's going to be sold they'd be a lot more willing.
lilslikk ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:05:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
LPT: Just buy a BlueDriver OBD reader and be done with it for the rest of your life
RDTIZFUN ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:07:24 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Wow... Thank you
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:51:42 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
you're welcome
milfsorgilfs ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:10:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:51:20 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
You're welcome
RealSkyDiver ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:49:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I need to get a car without the $3000-5000 at the very most with reliability being the most important part since my last one was a lemon. Spend way to much fixing it up when it wasnât worth it anymore. Does this mean buying from a private person would be the best way? I know little about cars in general but I do at least have one if those scanners.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:50:13 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Unfortunately the kinds of used car dealers that are going to be dealing in cars in that price range are the ones you most likely have to watch out for. You're probably better off going private party. Use your instinct to flesh out a bullshitter. Unscrupulous salesmen are good at bullshitting you. It's their job and they have good practice. A private party person that's bullshitting you is going to be much easier to spot.
RealSkyDiver ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 21:05:23 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks! Is there a good website for private listings or should I just go with Facebook marketplace?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 21:19:49 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I occasionally buy, fix, and sell cars. I just use Craigslist, offer up, and FB
Objective_Cantaloupe ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 14:51:51 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've been buying used cars/trucks for myself and family for 30+ years. I've been mostly successful, I know the good from the bad and things to look for to walk (run) away from. But this guide goes to a whole new level. Very impressive! Thank you for taking the time and sharing a wealth of knowledge on here. I know anyone that absorbs 50% of this is going to be far better off finding a used vehicle. Thank you Sir for your contribution to society, this truly makes life better for many people!
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:47:27 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thanks for the kind words!
twalber17 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:12:34 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Very insightful, thank you. Do you have a YouTube channel?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:46:47 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I've thought about it, but I don't have time. Plus my dad always said I have a face made for radio.
External_Cash ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 15:58:51 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
One of my big fears when buying used is Timing Belts. I usually read that these should be replaced anywhere from 60000 to 100000 miles. More often than not Im looking at a car around the 50-60000 mile mark or higher. Most times when asking the dealer if they know if the timing belt has been replaced, they claim not to know.
I dont believe there is a cheap way to check on a timing belt. Do you just get it (and water pump) replaced immediately? (also not cheap)
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:18:59 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Sometimes checking the timing belt can be easy, sometimes it's hard, depending on the vehicle. However, just looking at it is not really a good indicator if it was changed or not. I've done many timing belt jobs at their recommended interval and the timing belt looks used of course but it's not all cracked up or anything. It's rare I pull the timing belt out and go holy cow look at this thing. It was ready to go!
A majority of the newer cars have switched back to timing chains instead of belts so it's not really an issue on those.
The downside of buying from a dealer is that you will not have service records unless that car happened to have been serviced at that dealer. Carfax has started collecting service information over the past several years. My shop uploads all of our service info to Carfax. So it is possible to check Carfax and see if the timing belt was done on it.
If you do buy a car with a timing belt and you are unsure of its service, it is best to go ahead and change it and the water pump to make sure. It's not cheap, but it's a lot cheaper than the damage you would have to fix if the belt broke.
IgnatiosMp ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:01:07 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
If I go to a mechanic in Greece and show him this post instructing him to check everything you said he's going to kick my ass or quote me 500 euros. Thanks for this.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 18:15:02 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
I would hope if you took it in for a pre-buy inspection that he would check all of this and more. This is only a part of the list of things that we check at our shop and it takes us about 1.5 to 2 hours to do a full inspection.
rashpimplezitz ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 19:09:43 on December 30, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Great post, this should just be pinned or something because I'll never be able to find it when I go to buy another car in 3 -5 years.
Yippee614 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:25:18 on January 2, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
This may be the simplest advice of all, but if itâs too good to be true, it is. If a car youâre eyeing for $5000 suddenly turns up on kijiji for $3000, beware. I also find it very helpful to at least know the basics of haggling when it comes to used car.
MClashGaming ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:33:24 on January 3, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Jeeps are unsafe and always have been. Donât go buying an older one especially. They are terrible for children because they do not pass the side test; when they are hit sideways it is brutal and causes injury to kids or whoever is in the car. Practically every year of Jeep has this problem and they have yet to fix it.
Np1248 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 07:49:25 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Or maybe donât buy any cars, and use public transportation. Ya know, weâre sort of at the beginning of a crisis, small sacrifices help.
Chintan_Mehta ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 10:17:15 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
!RemindMe 1 week "Informative post"
MIB65 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:02:51 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
When I bought my second hand car, (a Mazda), I also logged onto a website which that let me see who previous owner was... it didnât give me their full details like name and address and social security number.., but it did let me know whether the registration was private or business. One car dealership told me that a car had only one owner. Technically true but it was a fleet car for a hire company.
Another tip was I phoned local Mazda show rooms and asked them to ring me if any good trade ins came in. I got a lovely car, owned by one owner - a doctor who drove it from home to clinic and back again. Always garaged at both destinations. Really well cared for, he just wanted an an upgrade as all the free service warranties had been used.
The tip about the oil was superb, I was told this by my mechanic. Fortunately my used car oil was like pure honey according to my mechanic.
One other tip which isnât about buying a car but driving it... my mechanic told me never to let the petrol tank gauge drop below 1/4 tank unless unavoidable... as with some petrol, there is some sediment or particles that settle on the bottom. If the gauge goes below 1/4, then you may get murky petrol going through... car will still drive but the fuel injection will not be happy and that can cost $100s to replace
HammerheadOTBS ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 16:50:23 on January 4, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
extremely helpful guide, but WAAA WAAA WAAA WA straight killed me
str8ballin81 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 03:15:31 on January 6, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Clear flood more is amazing. Phenomenal post!
lytele ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 22:52:13 on January 12, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
this would be really awesome in video format on YouTube!!!!
Maisie_W ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 12:48:39 on January 24, 2020 ¡ (Permalink)
Seems pretty neat, especially point 10, true that not all dealers are like that, but the situation does demand for a thorough verification so that you know whether the car is worthy or not.
Carfax is a good option for checking out if you are in the US, and if you are in the UK, CarDotCheck does the job.
Personally i don't find the cars with sensors for fuel injection, yes the sophistication does help in reducing the fuel, but i am a bit more traditional, i like my cars analog. Simple and robust. It's an amazing compilation btw, kudos to the contributor!
Tracieattimes ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 17:38:39 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Thank you for this excellent information! I do have a technical question.. When looking at fuel trims, I noticed you added a negative number to a positive one to come up with the total fuel trim. I was wondering if a better measure would be to add the absolute value of the short term to the absolute value of the long term. That way, your measuring total displacement from zero.
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 18:29:58 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That is a good point. Interpreting the total deviation takes a bit of knowledge to interpret, though, and is beyond a reddit post. Obviously, if LTFT is +20, and STFT is -20, even though total trim is only zero, the fact that they've deviated so far off zero is cause for concern.
Pureey ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:43:14 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
As someone who knows nothing about cars, this post confuses the hell out of me.
ieathairpussy ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 00:58:11 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Good intentions, but the stated audience will not understand the vast majority of this. First paragraph, for example, do we actually expect someone who knows nothing about cars to know what an ECU is?
đď¸ Racefiend ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 01:22:38 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
That's why I suggested buying a cheap scanner. Only about 20-30 bucks on amazon. Follow a few tutorials and you'd have it down after a few tries. Then it just takes less than 5 minutes to check all of the stuff I outlined to do with the scanner.
reyx1212 ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 00:50:30 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Writes post giving tips for people who know nothing about cars, then proceeds to use obscure terminologies/abbreviations someone who knows nothing about cars would not know.
đ¤Ś
On the more serious side, great post. But, do consider explaining the abbreviations.
ceedes ¡ 0 points ¡ Posted at 07:55:08 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Someone had their meth this morning
408wij ¡ -5 points ¡ Posted at 18:11:43 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
This is in the wrong sub. It's nonobvious, helpful, and comes from a pro.
I would add that regardless of what the scanner says, act skeptical. The seller might reduce his price.
Also, if you see any codes after the test drive, there's a problem.
Regarding accidents, minor ones are common. Repairs might leave ripples in quarter panels and slightly off bumpers. Worry more about big crashes. Major respray (look under the hood per the tip plus, in the trunk, in door sills, etc) is a red flag. Look for other signs of major repairs under the hood and alignment problems when driving.
MyWholeSelf ¡ -1 points ¡ Posted at 20:53:01 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
Wonderful guide, bookmark this link for future use! Up vote!
I have never owned a new car, and I'm almost 50. I drive nice cars, currently a Lexus ES 350. Thought I would add a few tips of my own.
On every purchase, I insist on a mechanic check and a smog check from a vendor I pick. If I buy the car, I pay for both, and if I don't, the seller pays half. I won't buy from someone not willing to make that deal. Usually, I show that I have the money to make the purchase, bank balance statement, cash in hand, etc. I pay $0.50 a mile for transportation if it's relevant. I've never had to split payments for a check up; it's really a check on the seller's knowledge of the car.
A smog check is an excellent way to check the health of the engine! I won't buy if the numbers come in much different than factory new, unless the car is understood to be a beater. So even if there are smog papers current (California) I want another check by a vendor I pick.
I want a deal, so I actually look for cars that have had some collision damage in the past. Things like salvage title, and ever so slight misalignment of panels can really reduce the cost of an otherwise excellent car. I know that this often limits insurance coverage to liability only, and I'm okay with this compromise, the money I've saved over the years vastly exceeds the cost of my current (most expensive) car. Things like this can knock the sale price down by half or more! My current car has a slight frame bend between the front and rear right passenger seats, and you would never know it unless you were looking for it. It's an otherwise beautiful, fun, safe, and reliable car.
Before buying any car, I search extensively for a car's reliability and safety record. I buy from the list of models and years I picked in research. If the model isn't one of the very top and it's class, I generally don't buy. ** I search for the best deal on the models I've chosen within about 250 miles.
Ignoring the seller, I buy the car that I feel most at peace with. I never buy the car within a day; at least taking overnight to before springing for a car.
** A few years ago, I owned a Chrysler Sebring convertible. Although the Sebring generally had very poor marks, the convertible was actually a Dodge Stratus with body modifications and the Sebring name slapped on it. So I got the price break from being a Sebring, but got a fun, relatively reliable Stratus. It performed well until it was rear ended by a gal distracted by her cell phone call. The only negative was the front windows - that window regulator!!!
NeoBlue22 ¡ 2 points ¡ Posted at 20:57:00 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
Too late, itâs already gone.
If you donât mind me asking, what was said in this post anyway?
MyWholeSelf ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 23:25:11 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)*
You can still see it if you know there URL, at least for me:
https://old.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/egs81p/lpt_some_tips_for_buying_a_used_car_for_people/
EDIT: I think I'll save as PDF since it's so useful.
EDIT2: What's gone? My comment or the OP? All seems visible here, even when I log out.
NeoBlue22 ¡ 1 points ¡ Posted at 13:19:03 on December 29, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
The post was gone, not your comment. Your comment is fine, no idea what happened during that time but it appeared as deleted
jimjamesjimmie ¡ -6 points ¡ Posted at 17:23:30 on December 28, 2019 ¡ (Permalink)
TLDR at least most of it
Another tip is if you're buying from a private seller, who is selling it? Never buy a car from someone under the age of 30 as I did selling a lemon sporty car to a guy younger than me but he didn't know ; and that lemon car I originally bought from a used car dealer who f*cked me over which was the tip you gave; however I did baby the car and showed proof of what I did unlike the used car dealer